Oil drain plug

Its the oil pan(aluminum) not the bolt(steel).

I had to put a heli-coil in my oil pan also.

Works fine now.

If a heli-coil doesn't do it, you could also drill the hole to the next size and retap it.

Always remember to use a new crush washer when reinstalling the oil drain plug.
 
Its the oil pan(aluminum) not the bolt(steel).

I had to put a heli-coil in my oil pan also.

Works fine now.

If a heli-coil doesn't do it, you could also drill the hole to the next size and retap it.

Always remember to use a new crush washer when reinstalling the oil drain plug.
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Strange, I never seen or used a washer on my oil drain plug.
 
Its the oil pan(aluminum) not the bolt(steel).

I had to put a heli-coil in my oil pan also.

Works fine now.

If a heli-coil doesn't do it, you could also drill the hole to the next size and retap it.

Always remember to use a new crush washer when reinstalling the oil drain plug.
rock.gif
 Strange, I never seen  or used a washer on my oil drain plug.
Ty have you alsways done your own PM's? becuase mine have the washer , just wondering if some one left it off of yours.
 
Its the oil pan(aluminum) not the bolt(steel).

I had to put a heli-coil in my oil pan also.

Works fine now.

If a heli-coil doesn't do it, you could also drill the hole to the next size and retap it.

Always remember to use a new crush washer when reinstalling the oil drain plug.
rock.gif
 Strange, I never seen  or used a washer on my oil drain plug.
Yup, supposed to have one, helps to keep from overtorquing.
 
You don't need to remove the pan or use a helicoil.  There is an excellent alternative.

Go to NAPA Auto Parts.  Bring your drain plug.  They sell special oversized drain plugs that ROLL (not cut) new threads that are a hair larger diameter than the stock threads, it'll still be the same pitch.  These are trick plugs.  You must get the right size, and tell them you are threading into aluminum (I think it might be adifferent plug for steel).  

When it ROLLS a new thread there will not be any shavings.    I haven't had to do this to a busa yet, but have done it successfully on Harleys.  It works amazingly well and the new threads are perfect.  When you are done it is as good as new.

You can remove the pan if accessability is difficult. You want to be sure to start it square. If you don't remove the pan, right after you install the new plug add a couple quarts of oil. Then remove the plug and let the oil drain out. That way it will flush out anything that might be in there (although there should be nothing).



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Its the oil pan(aluminum) not the bolt(steel).

I had to put a heli-coil in my oil pan also.

Works fine now.

If a heli-coil doesn't do it, you could also drill the hole to the next size and retap it.

Always remember to use a new crush washer when reinstalling the oil drain plug.
rock.gif
 Strange, I never seen  or used a washer on my oil drain plug.
Ty have you alsways done your own PM's? becuase mine have the washer , just wondering if some one left it off of yours.
Dayuum, I must have drop it in the oil drain pan on both my busa'z when changn the oil. Well anyway I never had any issues with my oil leaking(Knock on wood). But I think I will get one asap, dont want to push it !


Good lQQKn out Gunnybusa !
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Its the oil pan(aluminum) not the bolt(steel).

I had to put a heli-coil in my oil pan also.

Works fine now.

If a heli-coil doesn't do it, you could also drill the hole to the next size and retap it.

Always remember to use a new crush washer when reinstalling the oil drain plug.
rock.gif
 Strange, I never seen  or used a washer on my oil drain plug.
Ty have you alsways done your own PM's? becuase mine have the washer , just wondering if some one left it off of yours.
Dayuum, I must have drop it in the oil drain pan on both my busa'z when changn the oil.  Well anyway I never had any issues with my oil leaking(Knock on wood). But I think I will  get one asap, dont want to push it !


Good lQQKn out Gunnybusa !  
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Anything for a PIMP
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Always use a crush washer...

And JohnP, If you do decide to use a helicoil make sure all of the threads inside the pan are removed. Be careful doing this, just insert your finger and try to turn all the stripped threads out (Turning in a left twisting motion). You will feel all the threads backing out like a coil. If you don't do this before fixing the pan threads those loose threads will end up in side the oil pan.
 
The NAPA plug deal sounds good, but helicoils are simple as long as you make sure to flush and make sure there's no shavings inside.

And most importantly, US A TORQUE WRENCH.

13.5 ft/lbs is so easy to over by hand with a socket or a wrench.
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thanks everyone..I have already bought a torque wrench...I realize that I need to be better at doing things right and not half ass...anyways, I have a shop that I trust and I'm going to have the install a heli coil just to make sure it is done right..

However, buzzard that drain plug option from NAPA is interesting...is there anything that I need to say in order for them to know what I'm talking about? Should I really take the pan off to "roll" the new threads? Is it difficult to take the pan off?

Thanks again everyone

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You don't need to take the pan off as long as you can easily get to the plug.  I have a lift, and then I jack up the rear of the bike while it is on the lift.  That way everything is very easy to get to and there is plenty of room to easily get to the plug.

If you are crawling around on the ground without a lift or jack it's just a pain to work on, but can be done.

The pan is easily removed but time consuming.  Pull the fairings, the entire exhaust, and then drop the pan - just a bunch of screws around the perimeter.  You'll need a new pan gasket too.  But, you don't need to take it off, if you can easily get to the plug.

Just take your drain plug to NAPA and tell them it's going into aluminum.  They'll match it up to the right ROLL THREAD plug.

This really is the best way to fix it, and the only way I would do it.  When you are done you will have perfect, brand new threads in the pan.



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