Synthetic oil users...

I swapped errl yesterday and went with the Amsoil, I personally cannot tell a difference, but then again I haven't rode the bike since last summer.:D
 
mobil1 mx4t but you need to let the bike get broken in first before you put in any type of synthetic.
Tru dat, Playa  !
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, but amsiol is just as good as s synth motor oil or better and is way cheaper than mobil 1 mx4t.
I dunno about *way* cheaper, Ty...

Wally-world's got Mobil1 MX4T for $7.65 / qt.



Prolly a wash or slightly better off by the time you add shipping for the Amsoil...
I save an estimated cost of $3 an oil change or.95 a qt or $12 a case difference . Thats a big savings to a broke down Pimp like myself.
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I have been using Mobil 1 in my Busa for 30K miles. Ran the first two oil changes with dino, then switched to full synthetic. The break-it-on-dino is debatable as many vehicles come from the factory with full syn from day one. Do what you feel is right, I don't think you'll harm it either way. At 4K+ miles it really doesn't matter. Don't be fooled by semi-syns, if you're considering running those, save your money and run dino. Full syn is the way to go.



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Ok, a couple of quick questions.
Has anyone else seen or heard about the loss of oil issue?
Does this negatively affect your warrenty?

Don
 
donno bout the synthe...to me? if ride hard for awhile? froget the 2k or 3k miles...just change it, if I've been ride easy? wait until 2k or 3k miles...since some certified mech. said " these high tech. days now? even the regular oils been better these days...no need to worry...so, I set my mind at that moment, bit less than 3k miles, with good oils not the best...
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I'm trying to figure out why pay $8 + a quart when the Mobil 1 for autos works just fine don't see any difference 10w 40 4.50 a quart ...???
 
I have been using mobile 1 car oil for two bikes now and have had no issues...what about 15w50 mobile oil?..ever use that or do you always stay 10w40?
 
No such animal as Mobil 1 synthetic 10w-40 .

The 15w-50 Mobil Extended Performance is on the light end of the 50wt's and is a good Busa oil for warmer climates . Using J300 charts it is for the most part , a shear stable 10w-50

There are better oils available though but for the price , beats Amsoil pretty goodly .
 
That explains why I can never find 10w40 at wally world...I was think'in there was a 10w40 but I guess folks are talk'in about the motorcycle specific oil in 10w40.
 
I have been using mobile 1 car oil for two bikes now and have had no issues...what about 15w50 mobile oil?..ever use that or do you always stay 10w40?
I think the red cap (now dino oil) was available in 10W40 but then they went to the gold cap which I've only been able to find 15W50.

I'm happy with anything as long as it's a good known quality name brand and not energy conserving. Nobody has ever lost a Busa engine due to the brand of oil they chose and if it's changed on a regular basis the engine will probably go 200K + miles. As far as bikes/cars running better after an oil change or using a certain brand of oil...PLACEBO EFFECT!

Stopped off today at AutoZone and picked up oil for the bikes and it did turn into a head scratcher.
Got my Castrol Syntech Blend in 10W40 for the Honda Turbos as usual...holds up to the ungodly hot temps and doesn't cause clutch slippage (old Hondas don't like full synthetic) plus it gets changed every 1K miles.

Grabbed the Mobile 1 gold cap for the Busa and wtf...no API crescent? The one gold cap bottle I have left in the garage from last summer looks identical except there is an API crescent in the red area on the rear of the bottle...on the new bottle that area is now left blank?
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I want to see that seal so that I know for damn sure it is NOT ENERGY CONSERVING. I think the blue cap was the only one there with the crescent and it did state energy conserving on it.
Mobile 1 loves to change formulas on a regular basis and after reading the fine print on the gold cap bottle I was left with a vague feeling it may now have the energy conserving friction modifiers.

This time around she's getting 10W40 Castrol Synthetic plus it was on sale too.
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Just talked to my local dlr today...seems Zuk has come out with thier own synthetic oil...

Might give it a look..
 
I have been using mobile 1 car oil for two bikes now and have had no issues...what about 15w50 mobile oil?..ever use that or do you always stay 10w40?
I think the red cap (now dino oil) was available in 10W40 but then they went to the gold cap which I've only been able to find 15W50.

I'm happy with anything as long as it's a good known quality name brand and not energy conserving. Nobody has ever lost a Busa engine due to the brand of oil they chose and if it's changed on a regular basis the engine will probably go 200K + miles.  As far as bikes/cars running better after an oil change or using a certain brand of oil...PLACEBO EFFECT!

Stopped off today at AutoZone and picked up oil for the bikes and it did turn into a head scratcher.
Got my Castrol Syntech Blend in 10W40 for the Honda Turbos as usual...holds up to the ungodly hot temps and doesn't cause clutch slippage (old Hondas don't like full synthetic) plus it gets changed every 1K miles.

Grabbed the Mobile 1 gold cap for the Busa and wtf...no API crescent?  The one gold cap bottle I have left in the garage from last summer looks identical except there is an API crescent in the red area on the rear of the bottle...on the new bottle that area is now left blank?
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I want to see that seal so that I know for damn sure it is NOT ENERGY CONSERVING.  I think the blue cap was the only one there with the crescent and it did state energy conserving on it.
Mobile 1 loves to change formulas on a regular basis and after reading the fine print on the gold cap bottle I was left with a vague feeling it may now have the energy conserving friction modifiers.

This time around she's getting 10W40 Castrol Synthetic plus it was on sale too.
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I just rolled home from work
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and seen this and now ya got me wondering
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...I just changed my oil today with gold cap...think I'll go look at the bottle and see.
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I don't believe you have to wait to switch to syn.

if you don't wait until the rings have seated to the cylinders it will use oil. this is because once you change to synthetic fluid (early) the rings slip on the cylinder walls a bit from having less friction. eventually it will seat, but it will be an extended time.

i personally won't use synth until after AT LEAST three normal oil changes (with filters every time) and the initial move to synthetic would be a semi-synthetic. i do this because of the "normal" oil residue in the engine. granted there won't be enough to displace the effects of a pure synth, but it's just something i do.

currently i am running Motorex fluids and am very pleased with it on all aspects. no qualms about running Amsoil (run it in my drag car), but tried the Motorex and will stick with it for the forseeable future.
 
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