- Forums
- Other Forums
- Special Topic Forums
- Original .oRg Message Boards
- Modifications & Aftermarket Equipment
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Synthetic Oil
- Thread starter OB_EXCLR8
- Start date
More options
Meta tagsOB_VegasDude
Registered
I have heard some negative things about royal purple. A lot of my friends and myself use spectra gold synthetic blend in 20-50 weight. I used the spectra in my zx11 and had good results with it. It shifts real smooth when you use it. I was advised not to go to the synthetic until 3700 miles.
[This message has been edited by VegasDude (edited 11 July 1999).]
[This message has been edited by VegasDude (edited 11 July 1999).]
OB_hayabusa
Registered
I use Mobil Full Synthetic for Motorcycles, seems to work fine. 2c.
OB_emattson
Registered
I use Golden Spectro. 2 Quarts of 20w-50w and the rest 10w-40w. Gives me that homebrew "15w-45w" weight I like. I change the oil and filter every 1100 miles or so. Have been doing so for the past 5-6 years on my various bikes. Never had a problem to speak of. The oil costs a bit more than your standard car oil but it is NOT SJ rated. Back a year or so ago you could get the SG rated oil (without the SJ rating included). Golden Spectro is designed for motorcycles. I'm sure that Redline Synthetic is good also, but have never used it.
Nailz
Nailz
G
Guest
NUMBER ONE MISCONCEPTION, If it makes more power, it protectes my engine better...wrong. If they use it racing, it has to be great for my vehicle on the street...wrong again. Royal Purple is snake oil...Don't use it in you street motor...unless you like rebuilds sooner than usual....yes it makes more power at the cost of your motor. Use any name brand synthetic oil (Mobil 1, Castrol synthec, ect) and your motor will be ok. You can use any major brand of oil as long as you change you oil every 2500 miles or less. I use castrol GTX in a 250 hp suzuki turbo bike, works great no failures in 3yrs of racing and street riding, but I change it often. The most inportant thing with oil is to use the correct weight and rating. David G.
OB_cbxchris
Registered
Wonder why suzuki still does not recommend synthetic oils? Would it be because of the hardness of the cylinder walls on the busa...and it takes longer to seat rings. Have tried Mobil 1 bike oil in turbo cbx and works fine. Used Kendall GT-1 for years in all kinds of bike drag engines with no oil related failures but did not use after ratings were changed a few years back. Just changed oil in busa and used 20-50 golden -spectro non-synthetic to be safe for now. Have good friend that assembles engines ..mostly drag engines...has had trouble with rings seating with Kendall synthetic in new engines..had to take apart and re-ring and hone cylinders to get to seat. After talking with chemist at Kendall was advised to never run synthetic in new engine only after break in....he is sponsered by Kendall...so who knows what proper break in will be?
OB_Falconer
Registered
VegasDude's 3700 miles before switching to synthetic is a new one on me -- up 'til now I've heard 1500 - 2500 miles, but there certainly doesn't seem to be any science behind this consensus, just practical experience.
A while back I made a post on this board about my BMW R90S (we're talking 1975 here) in which I used the then brand-new Mobil 1 synthetic oil, starting at 100 miles. It _never_ broke in properly. That's not to say that the technology of synthetic oils might not have improved in the intervening (dare I say it) 24 years. ;^)
A while back I made a post on this board about my BMW R90S (we're talking 1975 here) in which I used the then brand-new Mobil 1 synthetic oil, starting at 100 miles. It _never_ broke in properly. That's not to say that the technology of synthetic oils might not have improved in the intervening (dare I say it) 24 years. ;^)
Is this spectra gold specific for Motorcycles? What negative things have you heard about RP oil. I have a friend who works for Holly corp. who's job it is to go to all the big drag racing events as a rep. He hang out with people like John Force. Cool A. Well, he says that a study was done and that the myth that you can't use synthetic oil during break in is wrong. I don't know if it is the last word on the subject but you know how these things go back and forth. Also he uses RP and claims it is great. I do know this his big block drag car and our Busas are birds of a different feather. So RP may not be good for motorcycles. Thanks again.
G
Guest
Rypp, ok i see you are using the additive and not the RP quarts of oil, their quarts contain a die that at low temps turn to carbon. Here at Exxon on turbines and special eguipment we use oil addtives for extra shearing and other problems that are for a certain application. Maybe the oil being used before was not the correct rating in your turbines. I don't know. If you use the correct weight and rated oil from any major oil company you should get good results. Oil additives are a billion dollar a year rip off if they are added when they are not needed. Briggs and Stratton conducted a test on additives because their motors where being used in test without oil in them. They found that their motors would run just as long with the same or less damage with regular oil in them, then drain the regular oil.check out this reading http://tempest.ece.uiuc.edu/~cburian/mc/oil/
use what you like. any time you pay $9.00+ dollars for a quart of oil, some one is getting rich.
Oil is a Topic that could lead to over 400 plus post. We really don't need to go there. The bottom line is that if you change the oil in you bike every 2500 miles or less, you can buy any automotive oil Walmart, Kmart, or any discount store sells for about 1 dollar a quart. If you like synthetic then 4 dollars a quart at these same places, Synthetics lubricate at 50 degrees hotter than dino oils do. this means if you have am over heating problem synthetic may fix it.
250F degrees is the limit to get 100% lubrication from dino oil, it is 300F for synthetics. At 300 degrees dino oil is down to 11% lubrication. ok ok I give, no more post on oil. David G.
use what you like. any time you pay $9.00+ dollars for a quart of oil, some one is getting rich.
Oil is a Topic that could lead to over 400 plus post. We really don't need to go there. The bottom line is that if you change the oil in you bike every 2500 miles or less, you can buy any automotive oil Walmart, Kmart, or any discount store sells for about 1 dollar a quart. If you like synthetic then 4 dollars a quart at these same places, Synthetics lubricate at 50 degrees hotter than dino oils do. this means if you have am over heating problem synthetic may fix it.
250F degrees is the limit to get 100% lubrication from dino oil, it is 300F for synthetics. At 300 degrees dino oil is down to 11% lubrication. ok ok I give, no more post on oil. David G.
OB_emattson
Registered
The old SG and SH rated oils contained more phosphorus to help reduce wear. The new SJ rated oils have reduced the phosphorus which lessens the risk of the phosphorus contaminating the catalytic converter. And as most of us will agree, we want to use the best lubricants that are available for our babies.
OB_cbxchris
Registered
One thing that I noticed when using synthetic oil on cbx was head temp went down around 30 degrees. Notice that I said the head temp not oil temp. That has got to mean there is less friction but I am no expert by a long shot. Hate to repeat this but why does suzuki not recommend synthetic oil at any time.On the subject of Mobil 1 car oil it WILL make your clutch slip in a high performance application..I`ve been down that road.
I have been a passive spectator on this board until now. I have used Royal Purple in all of my vehicles for the past 5 years. It is not Snake Oil. How do I know?
I work for an oil company as a mechanic. After listening to the RP sales pitch for about a year we decided to conduct our own test. We overhauled a Catepillar 399 (16cyl, turbocharged, 750hp) and added a 10% RP mix to Chevron HDAX 40. We had oil analysis done very month, added oil only when neccessary and ran the engine 24 hours a day for TWO YEARS. At the end of the test period we tore the engine down and miked EVERYTHING. Guess what? All parts were well within specs for NEW parts! The engine was fully loaded and was only shutdown when maintenance on other equipment mandated it.
As soon as my Busa hits 5000 miles (no reason for this number that just the break inperiod that I like) I will swithc over to Royal Purple in it too! I love this stuff!
I work for an oil company as a mechanic. After listening to the RP sales pitch for about a year we decided to conduct our own test. We overhauled a Catepillar 399 (16cyl, turbocharged, 750hp) and added a 10% RP mix to Chevron HDAX 40. We had oil analysis done very month, added oil only when neccessary and ran the engine 24 hours a day for TWO YEARS. At the end of the test period we tore the engine down and miked EVERYTHING. Guess what? All parts were well within specs for NEW parts! The engine was fully loaded and was only shutdown when maintenance on other equipment mandated it.
As soon as my Busa hits 5000 miles (no reason for this number that just the break inperiod that I like) I will swithc over to Royal Purple in it too! I love this stuff!
G
Guest
Rypp, you used a 10% mix, so your engine did not see the over amount of additives and lesser amount of oil. LOOK AT WHAT YOU ARE SAYING. Go ahead and use the 100% mix. then tell us about it after 2 years.
Dave
Most of this boils down to one thing......preference! Agreed? You like Mobil 1, I like Royal Purple. Someone else probaly likes Golden Spectro, or heaven forbid, Slick 50!
Oh, and I was referring to the increased TURBO life not turbines. Big difference.
And my last point is .... if you purchase RP in 5 gallon pails it cost the same as Mobil 1!
Most of this boils down to one thing......preference! Agreed? You like Mobil 1, I like Royal Purple. Someone else probaly likes Golden Spectro, or heaven forbid, Slick 50!
Oh, and I was referring to the increased TURBO life not turbines. Big difference.
And my last point is .... if you purchase RP in 5 gallon pails it cost the same as Mobil 1!
David,
The 10% mix is a concentrate that brings the additive package up to the same level as the regular RP.
You may have missed the point that I am using the oil in everything that I own including my John Deere. All with excellent results.
I am not trying to sell this stuff, I could care less what other people do with their equipment! All I know is that it works!
The 10% mix is a concentrate that brings the additive package up to the same level as the regular RP.
You may have missed the point that I am using the oil in everything that I own including my John Deere. All with excellent results.
I am not trying to sell this stuff, I could care less what other people do with their equipment! All I know is that it works!
OB_hayabusa
Registered
I use Mobil 1 Full Synthetic for Motorcycles. I don't know why anyone would use the car Mobil 1 because it is not designed for use in a wet clutch environment.
Also oil that works well in huge capacity pushrod engines does not necessarily work well in small capacity overhead cam 13000rpm engines. I doubt the 16 cyl beast was revving anywhere near that range.
On a final note, I agree with one fact, if you change the oil every 1500 or so miles, it doesn't really matter what brand you use. (as long as it's in the recommended specifications.)
Also oil that works well in huge capacity pushrod engines does not necessarily work well in small capacity overhead cam 13000rpm engines. I doubt the 16 cyl beast was revving anywhere near that range.
On a final note, I agree with one fact, if you change the oil every 1500 or so miles, it doesn't really matter what brand you use. (as long as it's in the recommended specifications.)
Hayabusa
As you stated in your own posting it makes no sense to use a product designed for a specific task as a universal alternative!
The RP that was used in the Caterpillars is far different from what I use in my truck, and that blend is far different from what is used on the track!
One size does not fit all!
As you stated in your own posting it makes no sense to use a product designed for a specific task as a universal alternative!
The RP that was used in the Caterpillars is far different from what I use in my truck, and that blend is far different from what is used on the track!
One size does not fit all!
OB_cbxchris
Registered
When I tried the mobil 1 car oil it was the only synthetic out...this was years ago. I can get Mobil 1 bike oil for 3.65 a quart from local distributor...don`t get stuck paying 7.00 a quart at auto-zone.
Similar threads
- Replies
- 24
- Views
- 2,937
