Dear .org brethren, the following is an update from Malcolm's ongoing adventure in his own words, please remember he is British and spent 26 years sailing around the world on his sailboat prior to deciding to sell the boat and tour 'terra firma' via motorcycle. Also, please remember he is 70 years old and prior to this adventure he had zero experience riding motorcycles, and, he started his adventure in Santiago Chile with the purchase of a Honda 250 Rebel and intends to traverse from Santiago to the tip of South America and then north to Alaska... His missive references an email I sent to him about a month ago asking about his camping in South America:
“Hi Jim,
In your last e-mail you asked about my daily camping, so I thought that you might like to have a description of a typical day.
( I should explain to everyone that I have copied this to, that Jim, a very experienced motor cyclist and good friend of my daughter Anna and Tor, was very helpful to me in Washington with advice, and later he is also cycling to Alaska via a different route. Anyhow, I thought that you might like to read the following).
I get up with the sun around 7.30, and start a routine which hasn´t changed much during the last three months, travelling from Santiago to the bottom of mainland South America and then north to Arica. It lasts a surprising two and a half hours before I´m on the road. In that time I wash if I can, but that all depends where I am. Ideally the evening before I found a lovely free, clean, secure and shady patch of soft ground, away from people and dogs, with a lovely cool stream for drinking and bathing, and view facing east for the morning sun. I have found such beautiful places, but they are rare. As with sailing, water, especially for drinking, has been a major consideration, particularly in desert areas. So, I´ve hopefully washed, and breakfast is fruit and cereal with powdered milk, tea, and I also make a thermos of coffee for my mid morning road break. I have an excellent, very small Colman’s burner which uses petrol, as the motor bike, so I only have one fuel. Then comes the task of packing up so many things, but they are all essential, my worldly possessions. Finally I pack up the tent: A 2 person size for me and all my bags, I couldn’t exist with less, and I`m off for another amazing day!
My possessions: Tent, 3 season sleeping bag OK for 12 degrees F., self inflating mattress ( my one bit of comfort ), stove, kettle and pans, collapsible water carrier, one change of clothes, washing bag and very small towel, light rain clothes, but my heavy, reinforced motor bike jacket, trousers and boots are also water proof. I also have a great little ´IPod Nano´( my other bit of luxury for music before I go to sleep each night, and a lovely present from Anna and Tor before I left Washington ), tools, oils and spares for the bike. (Clutch cable, bulbs, fuses, spark plugs, gear and break leavers.). Also lots of essential bits and pieces like, first aid, travel information, clothes pegs, tin opener, knife folk and spoon, etc.... It all adds up, but it has to fit into very little space: 2 panniers, a tank bag, haversack, but the tent and mattress are strapped down behind me, where I removed the pillion seat to make way for a steel strong box in which I have a cable from the bike battery to enable me to recharge my camera, IPod, phone and batteries whilst on the move. The tent has a separate fly sheet, but without it, the tent itself is transparent so that I can literally sleep under the stars.
So I´m off about 10 with a general plan, and that´s a great time because I don´t have to think where I might camp next, and the day is all in front of me. A mid morning coffee is a nice moment, as is a picnic lunch, both hopefully with some shade and a great view, except shelter has been difficult during the last 2000 kms. of absolute desert, then off again. By 5, I´m looking seriously for some where to camp for the night.
Late afternoon I am also looking for a small local shop to buy my daily rations, except in the deserts where there´s no habitation, my supplies have to last much longer. I stay clear of shopping in the few large towns and supermarkets, because I don´t like leaving my bike, with all my worldly possessions, unattended. It´s the same finding an Internet cafe. If I can do what I have to do whilst watching my bike out of the window, that`s best. Because I can´t carry much I have to shop each day, and I have to admit that I have given up on cooking. Gone are the days, when on´Pittulie` I would prepare something special each night, set the table and be civilized. One day I might get tired of tomatoes, avocados, cheese and tuna, crouching in my tent, but for now it´s OK. It´s also very cheap, as is petrol by European standards, and my bike can do about 200 miles on 2.7 gallons
Over these last 3 months I have pitched my tent in some very strange and wonderful places; church yards, petrol station, beaches, gardens of derelict houses, building sites, the desert under those amazing crystal clear skies, etc. But the best places have been the ones next to that cool mountain stream, and they are always free. When all has failed I have camped in official sites and listened to all the pop music that many campers can´t live without, usually for about 2 to 3 pounds, or in extreme cases I have been forced into a hostel, but then I have had the luxury of water out of a tap, doing my washing, even a hot shower and soft bed.
At the end of the day, making camp, having my picnic supper, doing bike maintenance, etc. also takes about two and a half hours, and as the darkness falls I am in my sleeping bag by 9, nicely tired, thinking of all the unexpected excitements of the day, and listening to some music on my IPod before sleep.
Now in Arica, Chile´s most northerly city, and I can see Peru immediately to the north across the bay. Having travelled through the countries 5 distinct geographic regions, the odometer reads 8270 miles, and today my bike had its third service. That's what I have done in 3 months, plus my boat trip for part of my way south, another 1500 miles, when the rough roads were too hazardous for me to attempt. Tomorrow I set off east to something new, as I climb to over 4500 meters to spend time in Chile´s most beautiful area, the National Park of Lauca. It will be very cold at night, it´s still the wet season there, and, as I haven’t seen any rain in this driest place on earth, (according to history it has never rained where I´ve been in the Atacama Desert), I guess that my daily routine will change as I cross into Bolivia.
Best wishes, Malcolmâ€