The Lucy turbo build, and testing

[Boosted Cycle Perf]

Wait why do I have to pick one? Do them all, as you get more of a following theres extra side money for ya with YouTube income.

It takes a lot of time to document and post that stuff.

What is the status of @faseljd B-King? Did I miss something? I have been hearing of a lot of mystery ills lately. Taking people out for 2-3 weeks at a time.

I had to machine a spacer for the back wheel. Had a lot of wiring to go through for the new clutch and master switches as well and making brackets for the new turn signals, fit the undertail. The last 10% of work that takes the longest. It’s pretty much ready for the dyno tho. I can’t wait for him to get it back.

What reseller is selling those China rods...I saw some at maxspeed for my zx11

I like to see build with the traction control,anti wheelie....boost control setup....like a highway rollon anti spin/wheelie bike....I have a microsquirt now,but may upgrade to a ms3x or maxx ecu

They’re not maxspeed. The rods I have are finished much nicer.

 

[Boosted Cycle Perf]

i happened to stumble across this today.... bet I won’t...

400hp would be stupid in this thing.

 

[Mr Brown]

i happened to stumble across this today.... bet I won’t...
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400hp would be stupid in this thing.

You won't...

 

[Boosted Cycle Perf]

You won't...

That’s the game plan anyways. A k series Honda would be another option. I’d really like to do a RB26, or 2jz. Just want to do massive burnouts everywhere, all the time.

 

[Mr Brown]

That’s the game plan anyways. A k series Honda would be another option. I’d really like to do a RB26, or 2jz. Just want to do massive burnouts everywhere, all the time.

Given the car's heritage it would be kinda cool to do a Rover 3.5 or 4.2 swap and boost that if you wanna do something different.

 

[04LE]

Would love some kind of light car with a boosted busa motor.

While I agree videoing all that is a lot of work, eventually videos can start earning $500+ just for posting something. Then it just keeps growing until thats now your main income.

 

[s4060]

How does their appearance compare with high end rods? Do the machining tolerances look good? I know the true test will come in the motor, but it's been my experience that attention to detail in manufacturing is related to quality of the product.

I don’t drag race, I have a rolling start when I go full power.
I thought it’d hold with HD Springs and a rolling start. Am I totally wrong?

 

[moko]

Where can I get the rods

 

[Mr Brown]

I don’t drag race, I have a rolling start when I go full power.
I thought it’d hold with HD Springs and a rolling start. Am I totally wrong?

As I understand it, the higher the rpm the higher the centrifugal force which locks the arms in place. So, I don't know that you're wrong, but I don't think that speed at the start matters.

 

[SSGT_B]

good to see ya back at it Rob @Boosted Cycle Perf , glad your on the mend. Hopefully this summer ill get the bike out to ya for a tune. Next year im hoping to get you to turbo it.

 

[bshay20]

Where can I get the rods

These may not be Maxspeeding rods but you can bet that they are forged in the same factory in Chy-na as the rest of the cheap car rods!! As stated the finish work may be better though....thats what make the difference IMO,

 

[Boosted Cycle Perf]

Given the car's heritage it would be kinda cool to do a Rover 3.5 or 4.2 swap and boost that if you wanna do something different.

I actually really like those engines. I have an olds 215 that I acquired a few years back. It’s got the 6 bolt heads so it’s better for boost. However the big draw back is out of the few places that made adapter bell housings to run some later model transmissions, only one or two places exist. They only make adapters to a muncie 4 speed, or a gm T5. Not that I’d need a super strong trans for how light the car is, but I was hoping to use a T56 6 speed so I could do a dog box.

Im going to put the Busa engine in just to be ridicules and see how it works out. The end game is I want to cut everything out of the car down to the body, then build a complete tube chassis.

 

[Boosted Cycle Perf]

Alright fellas. The verdict is in. The engine is out of Lucy and apart...

The engine damn near just fell out of the damn thing. It was ready. So I promptly pulled the head and cylinders and....

And... absolutely nothing exciting. I actually laughed. I was impressed by how on point the tune was tho. The x98 was burning right! There’s no evidence of the head gasket being pushed. All the ringlands on the pistons are mind. Cylinders are mint. Zero signs of detonation, all the rods appear to be straight, and no detectable signs of heat on the big end of the rods.

So why did it push water? Well if you guys recall, I was suspecting that’s the radiator cap was bad. It goes on extremely easy. I’m gonna see if one of my buddies has a rad cap tester to confirm. It did push just a little bit right at redline. If it is a head gasket, usually they’ll start spewing right when it goes in to boost.

So that answer that question... I think. But that doesn’t answer why the compression was so low. Lucy has always had low compression, but it was really low after the last dyno session. All the ring lands are fine, no broken rings.

BUT, on closer inspection, I did notice the top rings weren’t sprung out as much as the second rings. 3 of the 4 still had ring gap, but were difficult to spin on the pistons. That’s our low compression right there. They got hot and swelled. The ends were probably JUST starting to touch at the end off the pull. Again, wasn’t enough to break a piston, or score the cylinders.

All and all, that’s a pretty dang cool result. I would of bet money the head gasket would have gone first. But, butting the rings was a close second. No broken rods, no broken pistons, no blow head gaskets after X amount of power, and X amount of boost like the internet says.

So moving forward, I’ve got a few engines to build next week, so I’ll get Lucy’s cleaned up and bearings ordered. Then we can push forward with project 500hp for $1500. I have a few sets of stock pistons I can steal a set of top rings off of. Since the head gasket wasn’t damaged I’m gonna roll the dice and try something stupid. I’m not going to install a base spacer. I’m going to leave it stock compression with good studs, head gasket, valve springs, stock pistons lots of ring gap, main studs, and no name rods.

 

[202mphbusa]

Alright fellas. The verdict is in. The engine is out of Lucy and apart...
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The engine damn near just fell out of the damn thing. It was ready. So I promptly pulled the head and cylinders and....
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And... absolutely nothing exciting. I actually laughed. I was impressed by how on point the tune was tho. The x98 was burning right! There’s no evidence of the head gasket being pushed. All the ringlands on the pistons are mind. Cylinders are mint. Zero signs of detonation, all the rods appear to be straight, and no detectable signs of heat on the big end of the rods.

So why did it push water? Well if you guys recall, I was suspecting that’s the radiator cap was bad. It goes on extremely easy. I’m gonna see if one of my buddies has a rad cap tester to confirm. It did push just a little bit right at redline. If it is a head gasket, usually they’ll start spewing right when it goes in to boost.

So that answer that question... I think. But that doesn’t answer why the compression was so low. Lucy has always had low compression, but it was really low after the last dyno session. All the ring lands are fine, no broken rings.

BUT, on closer inspection, I did notice the top rings weren’t sprung out as much as the second rings. 3 of the 4 still had ring gap, but were difficult to spin on the pistons. That’s our low compression right there. They got hot and swelled. The ends were probably JUST starting to touch at the end off the pull. Again, wasn’t enough to break a piston, or score the cylinders.

All and all, that’s a pretty dang cool result. I would of bet money the head gasket would have gone first. But, butting the rings was a close second. No broken rods, no broken pistons, no blow head gaskets after X amount of power, and X amount of boost like the internet says.

So moving forward, I’ve got a few engines to build next week, so I’ll get Lucy’s cleaned up and bearings ordered. Then we can push forward with project 500hp for $1500. I have a few sets of stock pistons I can steal a set of top rings off of. Since the head gasket wasn’t damaged I’m gonna roll the dice and try something stupid. I’m not going to install a base spacer. I’m going to leave it stock compression with good studs, head gasket, valve springs, stock pistons lots of ring gap, main studs, and no name rods.

NICE! steal a set of used rings! something I have done a few times Now I almost always replace them and bearings while apart, thank you for pushing the envelope and learning for us. are you going to open the ring gaps?

 

[Boosted Cycle Perf]

NICE! steal a set of used rings! something I have done a few times Now I almost always replace them and bearings while apart, thank you for pushing the envelope and learning for us. are you going to open the ring gaps?

You’re welcome. Yeah I’m gonna hog out the ring gaps. I’m going to reuse the main bearings, and just order a set for the rods.

 

[moko]

Rob,do you an air shifter...I'm wondering if they are safe,as not to bend a shift fork....I see a lot of people just regular shift

 

[Boosted Cycle Perf]

Rob,do you an air shifter...I'm wondering if they are safe,as not to bend a shift fork....I see a lot of people just regular shift

Air shifters are fine. What usually causes issues is not having long enough kill time so the shifter loads up on the forks before the engine is unloaded.

 

[Boosted Cycle Perf]

Alright fellas, been tearing down and measuring engines the last few days. I spent a little time and got Lucy’s head ready. So this is kinda a down and dirty track side repair way to clean and “surface” a head.

For $5 at harbor freight, they have non abrasive cleaning wheels. The bristles are plastic and don’t dig in to the surface of the head. Start by spraying the deck of the head with brake cleaner and with a new razor blade scrape the rest of the old head gasket off. (Can do this on the cylinders too) One clean, use the non abrasive wheel to get any left over spots you couldnt get with the razor. Also, go ahead and hit the chambers.

Once clean, wipe down again with brake clean. Then grab a known good straight edge and a flash light. This is a way to check how flat the head is. Check long ways and diagonal. Put the straight edge on the deck, and but the flash light up aginst the back of the straight edge. If you see any light coming through the front side, that’s a low spot and may require the head to be decked by a machine shop. If you pushed a head gasket, sometimes it will indent the deck of the head in which case you’ll need to have it machined.

Lucy checked out good.

Next give it a light surfacing. I did this with some 350 grit sand paper and a machined flat piece of aluminum. This takes a little time, but we’re on a tight budget here. Wrap the sand paper around the block and run it from edge to edge long ways. Keep doing the as many times as needed until the deck surface is consistent shiny the whole way. You may notice a few low spots. Just keep going. I thought I was seeing a little low spot. A way to check that is to use machinist blue, blue sharpie... or a black sharpie works too. Paint the area and keep going over the whole head with the sanding block. If any of the blue or marker stays dark, that means there’s a low spot. But it came off evenly, so we’re good.

You’re done when it looks like this.

To finish off the head for the budget build, I swapped out the valve springs. APE 65lb dual springs.

And that wraps up the head. For the cost of parts, and some time, you guys can get some real nice results at home on the cheap.

 

[shade]

Thanks for posting. Love seeing this stuff

 

[Dopey]

Alright fellas, been tearing down and measuring engines the last few days. I spent a little time and got Lucy’s head ready. So this is kinda a down and dirty track side repair way to clean and “surface” a head.

For $5 at harbor freight, they have non abrasive cleaning wheels. The bristles are plastic and don’t dig in to the surface of the head. Start by spraying the deck of the head with brake cleaner and with a new razor blade scrape the rest of the old head gasket off. (Can do this on the cylinders too) One clean, use the non abrasive wheel to get any left over spots you couldnt get with the razor. Also, go ahead and hit the chambers.
View attachment 1618988
Once clean, wipe down again with brake clean. Then grab a known good straight edge and a flash light. This is a way to check how flat the head is. Check long ways and diagonal. Put the straight edge on the deck, and but the flash light up aginst the back of the straight edge. If you see any light coming through the front side, that’s a low spot and may require the head to be decked by a machine shop. If you pushed a head gasket, sometimes it will indent the deck of the head in which case you’ll need to have it machined.

Lucy checked out good.
View attachment 1618989

Next give it a light surfacing. I did this with some 350 grit sand paper and a machined flat piece of aluminum. This takes a little time, but we’re on a tight budget here. Wrap the sand paper around the block and run it from edge to edge long ways. Keep doing the as many times as needed until the deck surface is consistent shiny the whole way. You may notice a few low spots. Just keep going. I thought I was seeing a little low spot. A way to check that is to use machinist blue, blue sharpie... or a black sharpie works too. Paint the area and keep going over the whole head with the sanding block. If any of the blue or marker stays dark, that means there’s a low spot. But it came off evenly, so we’re good.
View attachment 1618990

View attachment 1618991

You’re done when it looks like this.
View attachment 1618992

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To finish off the head for the budget build, I swapped out the valve springs. APE 65lb dual springs.
View attachment 1618994

View attachment 1618995

And that wraps up the head. For the cost of parts, and some time, you guys can get some real nice results at home on the cheap.

Not sure about the ones fron harbor freight bit those plastic wheels we have at work from 3m come in different "grits" like sandpaper and if held on one spot to long will dig into the aluminum on cyl. head of a lawn mower and damage it.