The Lucy turbo build, and testing

Still haven’t had time to pull the engine yet. I’m still waiting on parts though, so I wouldn’t be able to progress things anyways.

a customer sent this to me the other day. I thought it was pretty funny.
1613323
 
The rods have shipped! I’m excited to get them in my hands. I’ll be reviewing and measuring them once I get them.

ive also dig out my camera equipment and started doing some test shots to get neat angles for time lapse shots and what not. I’ll be doing an intro video on HP tech here soon to describe the premise, and introduce the 500 for $1500 project.
 
Boosted Cycle Perf said:
Rods made it in today. They look very nice. Can’t wait to pin the gate shut and see if they can handle it.
View attachment 1613963
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How does their appearance compare with high end rods? Do the machining tolerances look good? I know the true test will come in the motor, but it's been my experience that attention to detail in manufacturing is related to quality of the product.
 
Mr Brown said:
How does their appearance compare with high end rods? Do the machining tolerances look good? I know the true test will come in the motor, but it's been my experience that attention to detail in manufacturing is related to quality of the product.
Click to expand...
They look exceptional. I will be measuring and weighing them so see how consistent they are. But at face value, I’m very impressed.
 
bshay20 said:
I see most of these rods advertised with ARP2000 bolts....and question that they are genuine ARP?? Is this what your useing and do you think that will be the weakest link?
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In my opinion, good rod bolts can be a gimmick. For example arp sells rod bolts for LS1’s. The only time you usually ever see rod bolts fail are from really long periods of high rpm, or in engines that have a lot of stroke, so rod angles are extreme.

In these engines, any quality rod bolt will do fine. No need to spend the extra money on an even more high end bolt if the rods come with them like I see many doing. That’s my opinion though.

As far as these rods go, I supplied my own arp bolts . I’m really curious to measure the big end of these rods when the caps are torqued down. Usually when companies do the final sizing, they torque the big end to spec then hone to size. To do that you need Molly lube. I don’t see any remanence of bolt lube in the threads. But that’s not to say that they weren’t cleaned afterwards. I will say the cleanliness of the rods out of the packing was immaculately clean. So we will see.
 
Boosted Cycle Perf said:
In my opinion, good rod bolts can be a gimmick. For example arp sells rod bolts for LS1’s. The only time you usually ever see rod bolts fail are from really long periods of high rpm, or in engines that have a lot of stroke, so rod angles are extreme.

In these engines, any quality rod bolt will do fine. No need to spend the extra money on an even more high end bolt if the rods come with them like I see many doing. That’s my opinion though.

As far as these rods go, I supplied my own arp bolts . I’m really curious to measure the big end of these rods when the caps are torqued down. Usually when companies do the final sizing, they torque the big end to spec then hone to size. To do that you need Molly lube. I don’t see any remanence of bolt lube in the threads. But that’s not to say that they weren’t cleaned afterwards. I will say the cleanliness of the rods out of the packing was immaculately clean. So we will see.
Click to expand...

That is the one of the biggest complaints I have seem about the cheap rods in general, the big ends are not round because of the reason you said. There are alot of guys in the car world that drop them in and make BIG power though! Cant wait to see your results and have a funny feeling that they are gonna work just fine.
 
bshay20 said:
That is the one of the biggest complaints I have seem about the cheap rods in general, the big ends are not round because of the reason you said. There are alot of guys in the car world that drop them in and make BIG power though! Cant wait to see your results and have a funny feeling that they are gonna work just fine.
Click to expand...
Exactly.

My thoughts are, if a compressed bellybutton lint aluminum rod can hang 350-400hp for a little while, a forged steel rod should handle that no sweat no matter how cheap it is. As long as it’s not hollow, it should be fine.
 
Just a quick question about the clutch you are running.

I know you slowly ramped in torque on the dyno. Do you think a set of HD clutch springs (the rest stock clutch) would hold 350hp 200tq if you ramped in the tq hard?
 
s4060 said:
Just a quick question about the clutch you are running.

I know you slowly ramped in torque on the dyno. Do you think a set of HD clutch springs (the rest stock clutch) would hold 350hp 200tq if you ramped in the tq hard?
Click to expand...
If they would, most people wouldn't have a lockup.....
I'd imagine it'd drive through the clutch if you brought it in hard, hd springs or not.
 
Hey fellas, sorry I’ve been absent for a little while. I got REALLY sick. I tested negative for Covid, but they announced last week that there’s 30 different strains. So it’s possible I had one they didn’t know about yet. Never been so sick in my life.

Now that I’m on the mend I was able to get back in the shop for a few hours today for the first time in almost two weeks. Anyone who’s ordered parts from me, they will be going out tomorrow.

With that said, I have some awesome announcements to make. First, I have all the parts in for Lucy. So I’ll be able to start the 500hp for $1500 on the HP Tech channel. I’ll video the full tear down to look at the damage if any. As well as get in depth with the measurements/specs on the China rods.

Next, I’ll be finishing up the tune on a members gen 1. I’m excited for this as it’s the first one I’ve tuned with big injectors, and PCV-PTI. It has a built motor, with one of my stage 1-2 turbo, and header. That build is also using a monster turbos fabricated air to water intercooler. Well see how it hangs in there as with the PTI we can measure intake temps.

Im super happy to announce that there’s another supercharged Bking in the works. This time, it will be completely built to my spec using the TTS blower, and drive set up.

I have another members bike that showed up recently that’s really here to get brought in to this century. It’s getting an ultra air to water along with some ID1300cc injectors, and we will be running it with a maxx ecu. I’ll be setting it up to be fully flex fuel as well. Might possibly do an HP Tech series on that for the stand alone wiring.

Lastly, this will be a crazy one. A maximum effort, 1000+HP roll racing monster. Using a stroker engine, warhead and cams set up, Gen 2 GT3587, ultra air to water, huge injectors, mechanical fuel pump, maxx ecu with traction, and wheelie control, x98 fuel.... literally throwing the parts catalogue at it. I have a brand new silver 2020 Busa on the way to be the test subject. The goal is to have it at FL2K this October. Definitely going to do an HP Tech build on this one.

I’m very fortunate I have clients that have full confidence in these really unique set ups. Once again, I’m very humbled.

What build would you guys want to see more on? Obviously Lucy. But maybe the most popular two I’ll do videos/build threads on. Documenting, posting, and answering you guys questions takes a lot of time. I don’t want to load my self down too much.

Again, sorry for my absence fellas. I appreciate everyone’s support.
 
Wait why do I have to pick one? Do them all, as you get more of a following theres extra side money for ya with YouTube income.
 
What reseller is selling those China rods...I saw some at maxspeed for my zx11

I like to see build with the traction control,anti wheelie....boost control setup....like a highway rollon anti spin/wheelie bike....I have a microsquirt now,but may upgrade to a ms3x or maxx ecu
 
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