B n s racing
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Hmmm not quite understanding where this conversation is going, can someone please elaborate.
The Parts Needed After Buying A Turbo Kit ?
- Thread starter xc700
- Start date
B n s racing
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OK how about let's ask, who is the shady mechanic?
turbojonny
Registered
I'm not sure what's going on here either.
Pleases elaborate on melt downs caused by too rich a/f. If members read this in the future and are looking for direction on tuning I want to be sure they not mislead by information that's 180° off. I've never heard of too rich a/f causing melt downs.
Pleases elaborate on melt downs caused by too rich a/f. If members read this in the future and are looking for direction on tuning I want to be sure they not mislead by information that's 180° off. I've never heard of too rich a/f causing melt downs.
BusaBus
Registered
I proved my point!
A legit shop that doesnt want to "screw" the customer will explain everything. They will never take advantage!
Now on the other hand, a shop that "screws" customers wont say anything wrong, they will just agree to benefit the bottom line $$$
Like i said before- I HATE SHADY SHOPS THAT DONT GIVE A "CRAP"!
A legit shop that doesnt want to "screw" the customer will explain everything. They will never take advantage!
Now on the other hand, a shop that "screws" customers wont say anything wrong, they will just agree to benefit the bottom line $$$
Like i said before- I HATE SHADY SHOPS THAT DONT GIVE A "CRAP"!
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So are you implying that I'm one of those shady shops?
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Yeah me neither...
Worst thing that's gonna happen is you're gonna blow the spark out if it's too rich, and/or wash the cylinder walls down.
When you're lean is when you start melting pistons.
B n s racing
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I can't call you stupid, for once at B n S racing we saw no light, till we joined the Org one dark night. Then low and behold Boosted Cycle Performance showed us the light You "freaking" dim wit.
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turbojonny
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Ok, I am so lost I don't know who's mad at who for what now. I'm just asking about the too rich thing.
Does the e85 equate to an inverse a/f ration where the lower the number the higher to air to fuel?
Does the e85 equate to an inverse a/f ration where the lower the number the higher to air to fuel?
Ignore anything busabus has said. There's nothing factual about anything he's posted.
But no you can't melt pistons with the afr being too rich.
turbojonny
Registered
All Ive ever known is lean = heat = melt. The rest of what he said sounded knowkedgeable? I thought maybe he knew some kind of motor voodo.
You're right. Lean, equals melted stuff.
And no, there was no legitimate knowledge to be had by anything he posted.
BusaBus
Registered
As you guys see a real shop that wont "screw" the customer will detail explain your mistakes , a shady shop wont say nothing, they wont say anything wrong if you go there with the wrong parts. They will just agree and tune your bike to get that money fast.
Id worry about shady shops that say nothing!
Id worry about shady shops that say nothing!
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Yes please, would you elaborate?
the last thing I want is a bucket full of burnt up pistons and a bike you have to work on all the time. what kind of h.p. can you expect from a gen 1 busa with a rcc stage 2 turbo kit with low enough boost that you do not have to worry about the motor destroying it self on 93 gas with no water injection?
You don't need a Stage Two for that, a Stage One with the bike's stock injectors will take you to a max of 8 pounds of boost on 93 octane, resulting in around
260 rear wheel with a safe tune. . . a Stage Two will just cost you more and do exactly the same thing. You are limited by the 93 octane fuel. The only way
to go beyond that number is either an Ultra Plenum, or water/meth injection. Obviously, the Ultra is the way to go, you can make around 400 rear wheel on 93
octane, but you will need a built motor under it to get there . . .
GNBRETT
Registered
in my experience Turbo Busa's tend to melt pistons/rods due to oiling issues over anything else.... some swear you need to do the oiling mods or ur "stuff" will melt and other have never done them and never had any issues. IDN.... guess I just have bad luck smh.
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I have done my research on the oiling topic and what i have found is that in order to build a bulletproof stage 1+ busa turbo engine one will either need to overfill with 10w40 oil or go to a dry sump.
It does not matter if the oil touches the crankshaft during idle, the oil level must be measured not to touch the crankshaft while running above 3-4k rpm, me i always fill with slightly more than 4 liters of Amsoil 10w40.
So far no oiling issues at all, the oil comes out crystal clear with no metal particles in it.
What i have noticed is that the busa engine sends the oil to the head with pressure but it relies on gravity to get it back to the sump, during acceleration or prolonged high rpm runs the oil from the head takes longer or it gets trapped in the head emptying the sump below a critical level especially when the high flow gear and the high pressure relief valve is used.
When the high oil pressure relief valve is used things get worst because the oil that used to get bypassed to the sump after 60 psi thus keeping the level somewhat safe now it is pushed in to the engine until the pressure reaches 120 psi potentially emptying the sump.
On my bike i also use a water to oil heat exchanger in order to cool the oil.
BTW can anyone point me or tell me what oiling mods are considered useful?
All the information i provided might be wrong, i am just stating my opinion.
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Hgr, you never use the high output oil pump gear AND a high pressure relief valve, and there is no way the engine is going to empty four quarts of oil out of the sump! The oiling thing is not an issue, you don't have to over fill, and you don't need a dry sump. There are MANY Stage Ones out there with just the HO oil pump gear living happy lives. Hell, my own Ultra has over 12,000 miles on it with that gear, it is still running strong and still one of my favorite bikes. The OP asked a simple question, and this thread has taken so many wrong turns, IMHO. It's enough to scare away any potential future turbo fans . . .
Good to know that i am worrying too much!
Well i guess you are right but you know how many people like to search for the eternal truth...
Btw are you saying that i better remove the high pressure relief valve (i have both the gear and the valve fitted)?
I can appreciate the search . . . with the HO gear and high pressure relief valve, be very careful when you are warming the bike up from cold. Blipping the throttle can spike oil pressure, causing the oil filter oring to blow right out . . . yes, I would take out the relief valve and put the stock one back in . . .
