The Parts Needed After Buying A Turbo Kit ?

[hendrixgr]

I can appreciate the search . . . with the HO gear and high pressure relief valve, be very careful when you are warming the bike up from cold. Blipping the throttle can spike oil pressure, causing the oil filter oring to blow right out . . . yes, I would take out the relief valve and put the stock one back in . . .

ok thank you very much!
Chris

 

[OZBooster]

"here is no way the engine is going to empty four quarts of oil out of the sump!"


Frank i have logs of extended high rpm running on the salt lakes dropping oil pressure , due to i think windage on crank and gearbox and head filling, improved it in my case by adding capacity and improving head drainage
oil pressure went up again when i went back below 7500rpm, but was as low as 34psi at near 10000rpm, no gears no high pressure valve
its not something most will see unless using a poorly designed baffle that slows oil return

 

[POWERHOUSE]

"here is no way the engine is going to empty four quarts of oil out of the sump!"


Frank i have logs of extended high rpm running on the salt lakes dropping oil pressure , due to i think windage on crank and gearbox and head filling, improved it in my case by adding capacity and improving head drainage
oil pressure went up again when i went back below 7500rpm, but was as low as 34psi at near 10000rpm, no gears no high pressure valve
its not something most will see unless using a poorly designed baffle that slows oil return

Based on your information, I guess I won't be able to say I never heard of it before, that's for sure. What is stopping you from trying Robinson's high output gear? It would be interesting to see the difference if you gave it try. I can say I never saw it on my prostreet datalogger, and have seen no evidence of an issue with our lsr bike, but we run DME pans with swing pickups and gears on both.

 

[BusaBus]

Did a real shop man-up and correct my mistake or did they just brush me off and not say anything?

You see thats what the shady shops like, when they see mistakes they wont EVER help you!

 

[mabupa]

Did a real shop man-up and correct my mistake or did they just brush me off and not say anything?

You see thats what the shady shops like, when they see mistakes they wont EVER help you!

I think your statements have been corrected and the OP got some answers as far as what he'll need and how to do it safely. You posted some informattion that some sponsors have stated were wrong and I'm glad they did, so that people like me, can learn a little when using the search option on the .org to learn about turbo bikes.
All that being said, I still can't figure what you're trying to do. If one of these sponsors or any other shop have screwed you over on parts or work, just make a thread and post about it, call them by their names and we can all find the usefulness of it, as we're being warned about a bad shop. I had to read through all this just to find the useful info. Or is this some guessing game? (Insert Confused emoji here)

 

[B n s racing]

I think your statements have been corrected and the OP got some answers as far as what he'll need and how to do it safely. You posted some informattion that some sponsors have stated were wrong and I'm glad they did, so that people like me, can learn a little when using the search option on the .org to learn about turbo bikes.
All that being said, I still can't figure what you're trying to do. If one of these sponsors or any other shop have screwed you over on parts or work, just make a thread and post about it, call them by their names and we can all find the usefulness of it, as we're being warned about a bad shop. I had to read through all this just to find the useful info. Or is this some guessing game? (Insert Confused emoji here)

That dudes a flake any of his post just need to be discarded, lol some people are confused there whole life.

 

[turbojonny]

Long story short, lean = melt. I was just waiting for him to directly answer the "why and how does rich a/f melt anything". He'll never answer the question, because there is no answer.

On a side note, I have my motor back in and am re-learning an old lesson: ALWAYS LABEL THE WIRES! I cant find the gps lead and theres one deutch connecter hanging out with nowhere to go...arrrgggg! I cut the 3 wire gps with plans to reconnect it and now the I can't find the harness side gps wires. First World problems though. If the worst I have to do is bitch about trouble with a turbo Busa I'm probably pretty lucky.
I figured I'd be ok derailing this thread now that it's pretty much run it's course.

 

[MC MUSTANG]

Gentlemen,
I have gone in and edited a few of the posts - just to clean up the language. Please refrain from name calling and foul language - we come to these threads for information about what we are doing or what we are thinking of doing and when a thread gets like this, as has been said, it can serve to put off people who are just looking for the information. I for one appreciate when members alert others to potential difficulties or even to shops/mechanics etc that may cause problems or give less than quality service - but there has to be substance for credibility. I also appreciate the sponsors/shops/vendors/experts who offer information and will take the time to explain what they are saying for those of us who may be interested but aren't as knowledgeable as we could be.

Bottom line is that I ask we all be respectfully to/of each other - keep the mudslinging behind the scenes, unless there is something specific that can benefit the membership in helping them avoid a potential problem or mistake.

Just my .02 - MCM
but seriously - language, please...

 

[Redcurbjumper]

I have done my research on the oiling topic and what i have found is that in order to build a bulletproof stage 1+ busa turbo engine one will either need to overfill with 10w40 oil or go to a dry sump.
It does not matter if the oil touches the crankshaft during idle, the oil level must be measured not to touch the crankshaft while running above 3-4k rpm, me i always fill with slightly more than 4 liters of Amsoil 10w40.
So far no oiling issues at all, the oil comes out crystal clear with no metal particles in it.
What i have noticed is that the busa engine sends the oil to the head with pressure but it relies on gravity to get it back to the sump, during acceleration or prolonged high rpm runs the oil from the head takes longer or it gets trapped in the head emptying the sump below a critical level especially when the high flow gear and the high pressure relief valve is used.
When the high oil pressure relief valve is used things get worst because the oil that used to get bypassed to the sump after 60 psi thus keeping the level somewhat safe now it is pushed in to the engine until the pressure reaches 120 psi potentially emptying the sump.
On my bike i also use a water to oil heat exchanger in order to cool the oil.
BTW can anyone point me or tell me what oiling mods are considered useful?
All the information i provided might be wrong, i am just stating my opinion

Data logging is the only real way to identify this starvation issue. Land speed guys have some valuable experience obviously. Who else keeps it pinned long enough to see the real oil system characteristics at the top output? hard enough to compare apples to apples here anyway. Myriad of variables.