The "STUNNAH" done it...

[STUNNAH]

Thanks for all the help, oh and Stunnah what did ya talk to Super kaos about? anything eye opening that I should know?[/QUOTE]

Bull we talked about general things...The "STUNNAH" is not turbo literate and was only concerned with the basic install and abilities of the stage one...A gain to 245-280hp is a big jump...As things move on the "STUNNAH'S" boost knowledge will grow...Your question's are damn good...Super has a site also...You can go there and ask and he will respond...

 

[cbriggs3]

NE,

Velocity's site says that the stage one kit comes with a standard 6lbs of boost. And can go to 300+hp with 11.5lbs of boost on pump gas.

So how did ya get the 8lbs of boost? Just a different spring right?

I know that the water is only a safe guard and doesnt add any hp it just allows you to run higher boost for longer periods. So your tellin me and the stunnah that if we get a stage one we can run 8lbs safe on pump fuel with no water?

So how long are we talking when we say extended periods of boost? Accelerating from 1st to 6th using all availible boost? or just running in 6th at let's say 50mph then hammering the throttle to about 170+mph?

Would it be beneficial to get a pyrometer? (based on previous questions).

The heat builds in the intake at high boost correct? Then the water cools the intake so there is no pre-detonation of fuel?

I'd just like to know what I'm gettin into before the purchase. Are these good questions? Havent seen them before in past posts.

Thanks for all the help, oh and Stunnah what did ya talk to Super kaos about? anything eye opening that I should know?


Marcus

Velocity's website is not up to date. What they used to call the stage 1 system, is actually now called the stage 2. The stage 1 kit was just completed in August. You do not have to change the spring to get 8 pounds of boost. All you need is the spring for the lowest amount of boost you want to make, velocity includes a 6 with most of there kits.

When my bike was put on the dyno, a mixture of VP C16 was added to 93 octane gas in order to be safe on the dyno. Barry assures me that for drag racing, I will not need to run any race fuel, even at 8 psi. You only need race fuel when you sustain high RPM's for extended periods of time. Like top end running or 9/10's racing.

Water injection will provide added insurance to prevent detonation, and will also allow you to turn the boost up higher. But be advised, the internal wastegate that is included on the turbo is probably only good up to 10psi. Internal wastegates are not as efficient as external. Unfortunately, it is a $600 upgrade to install the external wastegate to allow you to have full control of the boost.

Chris

 

[TheBull350]

Thanks a lot Chris for the info. I'll keep that in mind. I guess when I order my turbo a lot of this will be clarified also, didn't know Velocity's web site was behind. That's what made me question quite a few things!

Thanks

Marcus

 

[MET]

NE,

Velocity's site says that the stage one kit comes with a standard 6lbs of boost. And can go to 300+hp with 11.5lbs of boost on pump gas.

So how did ya get the 8lbs of boost? Just a different spring right?

I can run 15-16 lbs of boost. I use a boost controler (valve before the waste gate.  Works very well.  You just have to make sure you have enough gas going in so you do not go lean.

I know that the water is only a safe guard and doesnt add any hp it just allows you to run higher boost for longer periods. So your tellin me and the stunnah that if we get a stage one we can run 8lbs safe on pump fuel with no water?

NO!! I am telling you to make sure you  that you put the water in for safe engine use, even at 6-8lbs of boost.  i ahve seen engines cook and melt at 5lbs of boost.  The longer you ride hard up top speed the hotter the engine gets.


So how long are we talking when we say extended periods of boost? Accelerating from 1st to 6th using all availible boost? or just running in 6th at let's say 50mph then hammering the throttle to about 170+mph?

A mile and 1/2 at 180mph or more would be enough to cook the engine.  The other thing to make sure that you have plenty of negative timing in the engine.  KEVIN WILL MAKE SURE OF THAT FOR YOU.  

Would it be beneficial to get a pyrometer? (based on previous questions).

F/P gauge  (Must)
Boost gauge (Must)
A/F gauge (Must)

Pyro gauges for the head and exaust is OK.  You can oly read so many gauges and the road.  I asked the same question with Pyro gauges and did not put one on.  It will give you some added info if you can read it and ride.

The heat builds in the intake at high boost correct? Then the water cools the intake so there is no pre-detonation of fuel?

I inject the water in the Plennum attached at the throttle boddies.  Some pople inject at the turbo, but i do not like water going into the turbo for longer life.

I'd just like to know what I'm getting into before the purchase. Are these good questions? Havent seen them before in past posts.

Yes these are very good questions.  If you do not take care of these questions and others you will have a melted piston, head or both.

Thanks for all the help, oh and Stunnah what did ya talk to Super kaos about? anything eye opening that I should know?


Marcus

NE,

here you go...

Velocity's site says that the stage one kit comes with a standard 6lbs of boost. And can go to 300+hp with 11.5lbs of boost on pump gas.

So how did ya get the 8lbs of boost? Just a different spring right?
***
I can run 16-16 lbs of boost. I use a boost controler (vave before the waste gate.  Works very well.  You just have to make sure you have enough gas going in so you do not go lean.

I know that the water is only a safe guard and doesnt add any hp it just allows you to run higher boost for longer periods. So your tellin me and the stunnah that if we get a stage one we can run 8lbs safe on pump fuel with no water?
***********************************
NO!! I am telling you to make sure that you put the water in for safe engine use (or use and intercooler), even at 6-8lbs of boost.  i ahve seen engines cook and melt at 5lbs of boost.  The longer you ride hard up top speed the hotter the engine gets.


So how long are we talking when we say extended periods of boost? Accelerating from 1st to 6th using all availible boost? or just running in 6th at let's say 50mph then hammering the throttle to about 170+mph?
*************************************
A mile snf 1/2 at 180mph or more would be enough to cook the engine.  The other thing to make sure that you have plenty of negative timing in the engine.  KEVIN WILL MAKE SURE OF THAT FOR YOU.  

Would it be beneficial to get a pyrometer? (based on previous questions).
**************************************
F/P gauge  (Must)
Boost gauge (Must)
A/F gauge (Must)

Pyro gauges for the head and exaust is OK.  You can oly read so many gauges and the road.  I asked the same question with Pyro gauges and did not put one on.  It will give you some added info if you can read it and ride.

The heat builds in the intake at high boost correct? Then the water cools the intake so there is no pre-detonation of fuel?
************************************
I inject the water in the Plennum attached at the throttle boddies.  Some pople inject at the turbo, but i do not like water going into the turbo for longer life.

I'd just like to know what I'm gettin into before the purchase. Are these good questions? Havent seen them before in past posts.
*********************************
Yes these are very good questions.  If you do not take care of these questions and others you will have a melted piston, head or both.  You need to read as much as you can Turbo and Turbo detonation.  Learn from everyone's mistakes including mine.

Thanks for all the help, oh and Stunnah what did ya talk to Super kaos about? anything eye opening that I should know?

Ask anytime
Regards
Mike
Ninja eater


Marcus



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[STUNNAH]

Ninja...Apparently not...You are the Turbo guru...Thnaks for following this thread and passing on all the good info...

 

[Rhythm]

Ninja Eatr what type of H20 should the Playaz that are into doing long distance riding use on a Turbo'd engine soften,distilled or tap to avoid corrosion if this is a problem and avoid risking not being able to purchase one of the above liquids? I know if distilled or soften water is needed and that putting regular tap in when becoming empty on the road will not start to corrode anything instantly ;but would like to avoid flushing the system out of left behind minerals later or do you have flush after using tap (ionizing )?

I'm feel'n the intercoolr would be a better choice if one is into this type of riding (below 300hp). Just pump and go !

 

[TheBull350]

Rhythm, I know a huge problem is placement and heat dissapation(spelling?) with the intercooler. If placed in front of the radiatr people have experienced overheating, and the inability to lower the bike. Maybe NE has better knowledge of this, sure he does! But I'm kinda with ya on this 1.

It's absoulutely amazing that there is soo much included with considering a turbo, I'm glad we have people that are knowledgable with this!!

Marcus

 

[Rhythm]

I think MOTORHEAD (www.suzukihayabusa.org)HAS THAT PROBLEM WORKED OUT WITH THE OVERHEATING WITH THE INTERCOOLER. I FORGOT WHAT ALL HE HAS DONE TO ELIMINATE THIS PROBLEM BUT WILL ASK HIM AND PASS ON THE INFO ASAP.

 

[MET]

Your welcome, anytime.