Tools for a wannabe

[sixpack577]

Front and rear axle are around 72' lbs, so a half inch breaker bar will be enough.
I also torque them with a 3/8 drive Snap-On torque wrench(it has a 15-100' lb range).
Front sprocket and clutch hub nut can both be difficult to remove with hand tools, but I have done both this way Many times...but a battery powered half in drive impact just makes things easier, I Highly recommend a good one.
Big sockets, like 32mm(rear axle) will most always be impact as well.

 

[sixpack577]

These are clutch basket pliers.
They are designed to hold the basket(with all the plates removed) so that you can break the clutch hub nut loose, and they work very well.
Also, the torque from a big impact Can strip threads from a fastener when Removing it, or break the fastener, depending on the fasteners strength...and the impact's.
The 1/4 drive impacts can do this too, as
they are commonly used in basic disassembly...so be cautious with new impacts.
I have personally seen it on several occasions, but, do not be concerned, only aware and cautious.

 

[sixpack577]

A set of 3/8 drive metric allen sockets, as well as a set of Ball-End allen wrenches(the ball-end works at an angle, as many times small allen-head fasteners can be in awkward places to reach).
A set of Safety-torx sockets and wrenches.
Safety Torx is different than regular Torx, as the Safety Torx has a hole in it's center, which allows the center pin in safety torx fasteners to have clearance.
Safety torx works on regular torx as well, and even though you will likely not encounter them often, it's worth buying those vs regular torx...for that one time every 5 years you need it, lol.
You will need a big allen socket like this one pictured for the front axle.
You can put it on a rachet, or hold it with a wrench

 

[sixpack577]

Reverse pliers/reverse needle nose pliers.
Squeeze the handles and they open.
They are good for motorcyle brake jobs, as you can easily push the pistons back by putting these pliers into the old pads, to spread them for rotor clearance for new and therefore thicker brake pads.
They have also saved me doing several odd jobs for over 28 years now, I highly recommend them, as even though you won't use them often, they are great when you need them.

 

[sixpack577]

Snap-ring pliers
This is another thing that if you don't get high quality, they work a couple times and break.
I went through several types with replaceable tips to the solid pliers/tips made on, and those small tips break easily unless the quality is good.
This means expensive.
About 5 years ago my Dad had pitty on me after I explained how I was finally going to have to break down and buy a good set of All the snap-ring pliers.
He bought me a full set from Matco, every size and angle, and they all are reversable, there are 12 or 14 of them in the case.
The tips are Very strong, and although I've only used 3 or 4 of them to date, they work great when I need them to.
The most common place you would need snap-ring pliers on a motorcycle would be for master-cylinder rebuilds, as they all have a snap-ring holding in the spring and plunger.
Any other snap-rings are usually inside the engine.
For the amount of use you would get out them, you really can't justify the cost of an expensive set, only that they are more dependable, and you know that you'll have the right size when you need it.

 

[sixpack577]

A Dead-Blow hammer
The kind with sand in the head that acts as a counter-weight, so the hammer stops on impact and does not bounce back.
These come in hard plastic and rubber coated heads, to help prevent marring or damaging surfaces.
They can be very helpful when trying to persuade some things loose, when a steel or ball-peen hammer would easily damage that surface.

 

[Bumblebee]

Snap-ring pliers
This is another thing that if you don't get high quality, they work a couple times and break.
I went through several types with replaceable tips to the solid pliers/tips made on, and those small tips break easily unless the quality is good.
This means expensive.
About 5 years ago my Dad had pitty on me after I explained how I was finally going to have to break down and buy a good set of All the snap-ring pliers.
He bought me a full set from Matco, every size and angle, and they all are reversable, there are 12 or 14 of them in the case.
The tips are Very strong, and although I've only used 3 or 4 of them to date, they work great when I need them to.
The most common place you would need snap-ring pliers on a motorcycle would be for master-cylinder rebuilds, as they all have a snap-ring holding in the spring and plunger.
Any other snap-rings are usually inside the engine.
For the amount of use you would get out them, you really can't justify the cost of an expensive set, only that they are more dependable, and you know that you'll have the right size when you need it.

Many years ago I got a Blue Point (Snap on) set of snap-ring pliers....they have come in handy more than a few times, mine have an addition for spreading things (like brake pads).

 

[sixpack577]

A Brass Punch
When you need to really beat on something that won't come loose, or hit a siezed fastener to shock it loose...you want a Big brass punch, and a Big ball-peen hammer to hit it wih.
Brass punches as a tool are usually small, and for small jobs, but....I have been using these 17mm diameter bar ends, as well as bigger and smaller sizes for decades now.
The cnc machines where I work run 10' round stock in different materiels and diameters.
The scrap ends are usually around a foot long, and no one cares that I take a few on occasion, as their scrap value is nothing for just a few pieces.
If you want one, or a couple different diameters, let me know and I'll send you them.
They are another lifesaver in the mechanic world.
I have a few in my toolbox at home as always, but I just walked out and grabbed these off the shop floor.

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

These are clutch basket pliers.
They are designed to hold the basket(with all the plates removed) so that you can break the clutch hub nut loose, and they work very well.

I am glad I joked about this. I appreciate your explanation as the "why" is difficult to come by!

Also, the torque from a big impact Can strip threads from a fastener when Removing it, or break the fastener, depending on the fasteners strength...and the impact's.
...The 1/4 drive impacts can do this too, as
I have personally seen it on several occasions, but, do not be concerned, only aware and cautious.

a battery powered half in drive impact just makes things easier, I Highly recommend a good one.

I glean that the impact is an expected way of life and I will figure this in. That is really helpful.

A Brass Punch

HAH so I got the Motion Pro one. And during the painful period in my life while I was figuring out that I will never get a minimeter of sag on a spring manufactured for two of me, it got rounded enough to no longer be useful, at least on small cogs like on the shock. I wonder if my "guy" can sharpen it; probably.

I have a few in my toolbox at home as always, but I just walked out and grabbed these off the shop floor.

That is awesome, thanks, will let you know.

 

[sixpack577]

A Spanner wrench for the rear shock ring, and the top lock ring Can be hammered with the brass punch to get it loose, and seat it(as you know).
Another spanner for the steering neck bearings.
And, the spanners can be bought with 3/8 drives too, which gives leverage that can be much needed at times.
And this is officially called a spanner wrench.
Unlike European slang reffering to all wrenches as spanners.
I have an adjustable one as well, and it has a thumbwheel like a regular adjustable wrench, and a 3/8 drive in the handle.

 

[sixpack577]

I have no personal experience with the Abba Skylift, but I would like to have one, as they get great reviews here($780)
I also have a Harbor Freight motorcycle lift table, and it is excellent.
The only one that I can find with manual foot pedals(no big air compressor required), and it also not only has 2 fixed wheels on one end, as most lifts do, but it has 2 swivel castors on the other end, as well as thread down feet to keep it from moving($550).
I have a Baxley wheel chock.
I use in on the floor, have it bolted to my table, and can bolt it to a trailer floor.
They are incredibly stable and the best chock you can buy($200)
My rear stand, and front forklift stand(that lifts under the lower triple clamp) allows the forks to be removed, and are much more stable than the pin mounts in the lower fork legs
(around $150-$300 a pair).
My Bursig stand is now over 12 years old, and on it's 3rd bike.
It makes moving the bike around very easy, as well as doing quick up/down old school suspension sag measurements, and changing steering neck bearings.
I store the bike on it too.
($600-$700).
I have a Rabaconda dirt tire changer(works on street tires also), works great, but still requires effort, lol($400).
I plan to buy their street changer next, as it makes tire changes much easier($600).
I have a Redline Stands static tire balancer, it works great as well, and I've never had a tire not balance correctly with it($150).
I know that I've gotten away from stands and on to tires, but mounting and balancing them is not bad at all.
Those pay for themselves easily too in the money and time saved, and you basically eliminate anyone else touching your bike, so you know it's done right.

 

[dave s]

I think you get what you pay for when it comes to tool's
Buy the best you can afford

 

[sixpack577]

My air compressor is only started when I need to air up a tire these days. Battery operated tools are amazing! I don’t know how we all lived so long with hand tools. LOL! My Milwaukee battery ratchet and old set of ridgid power tools I inherited from a friend are my best friends in the garage. Only thing I did was add a big battery impact and high output battery to my tool box and rotating tires is now a breeze too, just need to be careful and only snug up the lug nuts with the impact and then torque to spec.

I've had one of these for over 8 months now, and it works great.
So much easier to check my tires before every ride, as one always needs a psi or so.

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[Hayabusa Wannabe]

I have no personal experience with the Abba Skylift, but I would like to have one, as they get great reviews here($780)
I also have a Harbor Freight motorcycle lift table, and it is excellent.

I have 1/2 bay for the VFR, Hayabusa, mower, and yard implements. It seems with the Skylift I can move and do whatever I want with the bike and the space situation may necessitate that kind of convenience.

I am trying to plan around such but if it comes down to it my car may have to go outside during the winter so that the bike can have that spot for maintenance. Otherwise I will have to be expert at using the space.

 

[MonkeyButtRides]

Note from my initial post:


On my cars I always use box wrenches for drain plugs. So it is a challenge not understanding bike work but having to select the ratchets and sockets. Why does a 16 ft-lb drain plug necessitate a 3/8” ratchet over a box wrench/speed wrench or a 1/4" breaker bar?

My 1/4" ratchet is tiny and does anyone even make 1/4 socket's in 15-19mm range? Why would you put a socket of that size on a 1/4 ratchet? I do have a 3/8 to 1/4 adapter so I could put my 3/8 ratchet on 1/4 sockets but again, I have varying ranges of drain bolt sizes between all my bikes and most of them are larger then what I have seen in the 1/4 metric socket range. Just my 2 cents.

Box wrenches can work just fine but sometimes you don't have clearance to get lots of rotation where a ratchet with a small extension helps to clear any obstructions.

 

[sixpack577]

My 1/4" ratchet is tiny and does anyone even make 1/4 socket's in 15-19mm range? Why would you put a socket of that size on a 1/4 ratchet? I do have a 3/8 to 1/4 adapter so I could put my 3/8 ratchet on 1/4 sockets but again, I have varying ranges of drain bolt sizes between all my bikes and most of them are larger then what I have seen in the 1/4 metric socket range. Just my 2 cents.

Box wrenches can work just fine but sometimes you don't have clearance to get lots of rotation where a ratchet with a small extension helps to clear any obstructions.

I have adapters that go between 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 drive, and going up or down.
I find it easier sometimes to put bigger 3/8 sockets on my 1/4 ratchet, as it makes putting some fasteners back and snugging them quick and easy, then I come back and torque.
This works well for me on drain bolts too.

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

A Spanner wrench for the rear shock ring, and the top lock ring Can be hammered with the brass punch to get it loose, and seat it(as you know).
Another spanner for the steering neck bearings.

I have the Honda part, initially for the VFR shock. Since I despise those stamped steel tools I bought this as well. I take it that the steering stem is a lot smaller than the shock. I never see clear specs on these in terms of the required arch/size for each job, so your adjustable one makes good sense.

And this is officially called a spanner wrench.

I think DIN 1810 includes "hook" as well, ergo "hook spanner wrench. Now the original German standard apparently shows "hook key".

There will be a test tomorrow for the rest of the members.

 

[sixpack577]

I have the Honda part, initially for the VFR shock. Since I despise those stamped steel tools I bought this as well. I take it that the steering stem is a lot smaller than the shock. I never see clear specs on these in terms of the required arch/size for each job, so your adjustable one makes good sense.

View attachment 1669900

I like that double end spanner wrench, let us know what you think of it.
The stamped steel spanner that has the 3/8 drive opening that's pictured above, and ones like it, actually work very well.
They are thin and get into tight spaces easier, and you can put them on a long or short handled ratchet or breaker bar.
This really helps, as some rear shocks can be difficult to get a good bite on the shock nut, given the angle of the swingarm, even ones that look easy to access.
I'm all for buying all the different styles of spanners too for this reason, as some work better on certain bikes than others.
Also, I always clean the threads on the shock before loosening the lock nut or nut.
The threads are very fine, and the slightest amount of dirt makes turning the nut that much more difficult.
Dirt will also collect at the threads where they meet the locknut.
I use compressed air(when possible), a toothbrush to scrubb the visible threads, with any kind of mild cleaner if nesacery, and the smallest amount of penatrating oil...it is a threaded nut under high stress from spring pressure, so clean and lubed threads makes adjustments much easier.

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

^^^ I think you just explained the detail on why my busa adjustment was très difficile! Really great advice there that I never would have thought of! I am going to follow it to a "T" next time, thanks.

I like that double end spanner wrench, let us know what you think of it.

Someone skilled should probably try it and not rely on me. It is bulky, to your point on the stamped steel ones. I do recall inserting it as a test when I got the busa, and thought, "I cannot do this!" and moved onto the punch.

I got it for the VFR but I had the VFR shock rebuilt and it was setup just perfectly, so I have yet to touch that shock.

<end poor tool review>

 

[mabupa]

I've had one of these for over 8 months now, and it works great. So much easier to check my tires before every ride, as one always needs a psi or so.

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Never leave home without an Airmoto, the best-selling portable air pump. Great for road trips and everyday use.

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Those sure look very convenient!