Tools for a wannabe

My 1/4" ratchet is tiny and does anyone even make 1/4 socket's in 15-19mm range? Why would you put a socket of that size on a 1/4 ratchet?
...
Box wrenches can work just fine but sometimes you don't have clearance to get lots of rotation where a ratchet with a small extension helps to clear any obstructions.

Thank you, your point is taken. I will rely on the 3/8" as the primary for the bike. I may need a 1/4" setup for those tiny fasteners around the house so that has to be included here.
 
Thank you, your point is taken. I will rely on the 3/8" as the primary for the bike. I may need a 1/4" setup for those tiny fasteners around the house so that has to be included here.
All this tool talk has made me go out and review all my tools.....I'm pretty happy with what I have so far but each time I encounter a new issue, I buy the tool to complete it even if I use it once, I have it just in case...

When I fall off my perch, my kids will have lots of tools for the estate auction....
 
STATUS CHECK

@sixpack577 I do not expect much more input until the wheels get turning on my end and after this encyclopedia that you graciously offered, but an ignorant question: What percentage of a potential bike tool kit has been covered here? I know we are but second guessing about light work being done, granted. You are not going to outright double this list while I sleep soundly unawares and highly ignorant, until I am surprised at my next forum check-in, right? Please tell me this is correct. HELP! Make me feel at ease!
 
STATUS CHECK

@sixpack577 I do not expect much more input until the wheels get turning on my end and after this encyclopedia that you graciously offered, but an ignorant question: What percentage of a potential bike tool kit has been covered here? I know we are but second guessing about light work being done, granted. You are not going to outright double this list while I sleep soundly unawares and highly ignorant, until I am surprised at my next forum check-in, right? Please tell me this is correct. HELP! Make me feel at ease!

Well, alot of people seem to get by on a shoestring budget for bike tools, and if they can make it work, great.
I have been collecting tools for over 30 years, and echo what @Bumblebee says about buying something, using it once, and it sits in the toolbox for years...but is good that it's there the next time, so there are some of those things.
There are also the unusual but useful things, like the reverse pliers.
There will be the occasional small fasteners as well, so a combination wrench set with at least an 8mm or smaller size to start.
8mm hex heads are common, so you want the 1/4 rachet and small sizes of metric sockets as well.
Most quality sets will include a couple of extensions and a swivel/u-joint for each drive size.
A stubby phillips head or posi-drive screwdriver, as you will need this for tight spots, and not all screwdriver sets have one.
A good extentable magnet and claw/pickup tool can save the day when you drop something.
I think that you already have a volt-meter, and a test-light can be very useful.
A battery charger.
Chain press tool.
Anti-sieze, medium loctite, white lithium grease, and penatrating oil are good to have on hand.
A handheld trigger propane/map gas bottle to heat stubborn fasteners.
An internal wheel bearing puller set.
A flywheel puller set
A hydraulic press.
Magnetic parts trays, get a few, they're cheap and really help to organize small parts and fasteners.
And belive it or not...a good roll cart.
The cart is there for tools and/or parts, and moves to where ever you need it.
It sounds simple, but is one of the most useful and most used tools that I have.
Look at this picture from my gsxr posts, and how much more easy and organized it made this transmission job.
I have a big workbench directly behind me, but the roll cart just makes better sense.
It is one thing that I would highly recommend for any workspace that doesn't have one.
Oh, and a good cushion to kneel down on, lmao...seriously.
All the things that I've posted are what I wouldn't want to work on motorcycles without.
Do you need it all? No...but it sure makes things easier to do.

20230528_145835.jpg
 
Thanks so much sixpack.

A battery charger.
These are strewn about here like candy bars.

Anti-sieze, medium loctite, white lithium grease, and penatrating oil are good to have on hand.
I have been using anti-seize for steel wheels & lugs. I just used blue Loctite for the first time on the bar end and clutch lever (he shouted proudly!) Reading all around the forum and in the service manual about lubricating pivots, I finally got some white lithium grease when I bought the Loctite. I have a collection of thin oils and WD-40, have to check the grand collection for penetrating oil.

The cart is there for tools and/or parts, and moves to where ever you need it.
It sounds simple, but is one of the most useful and most used tools that I have.
It has been on the list to divvy up the remaining garage floor space into a work bench and cart, or just the cart that would have to act as workspace as well. The former would be best but the room is limited. Perhaps installing a bench higher than the cart so that the cart can tuck underneath it.

Chain press tool....An internal wheel bearing puller set.
This work seems on the risky end for me. Dumb question: Can someone assemble a chain where I can then install it, or is there any necessity to press a chain together while on the bike?

A flywheel puller set
Dumb question #87b.2: Why on earth would one need to pull the flywheel?

Magnetic parts trays, get a few, they're cheap and really help to organize small parts and fasteners.
I wondered how techs organize parts. Had no idea about parts trays!

Oh, and a good cushion to kneel down on, lmao...seriously.
I always have a cushion for oil changes and yard work, absolutely! Also I tend to stock innumerable large corrugated box material for cushion, lying on, spilling nasty things, and more fun.

Most quality sets will include a couple of extensions and a swivel/u-joint for each drive size.
I am purchasing piecemeal. I like the wobble plus extension sets from Snap-On, but a full set in each size may be a bit much. Perhaps I can get the 3/8" set and piecemeal others as is needed.

A good extentable magnet and claw/pickup tool can save the day when you drop something.

A while back I lost one of those rubber plugs that goes into unused ports on the power commander. Right down in the bike. Got something magical for locating itsy-bitsy plastic and rubber parts? :laugh:
 
Last edited:
Could make a folding work table that goes against the wall and comes out when you need it...or like you said, make it so it goes underneath the work bench...

Chain can only be riveted on the bike unless you take the swing arm off....

I use either old margarine tubs or zip lock bags for things I take off....I also use a piece of cardboard with a drawing of what I'm taking off and use an awl to punch holes for the bolts or fasteners to go in......I use this mostly for taking off engine cases that have different sized bolts.

To find those rubber bits, you will have to take things off to look inside-it's the only way.....I lost a rubber cap underneath the airbox of my GSXR once and had to take a bunch of stuff off until I found it....
 
Chain can only be riveted on the bike unless you take the swing arm off....

Thanks. I am terrible with spatial recognition and without having done this, never noticed :D that one cannot pull the chain past the swingarm.

I also use a piece of cardboard with a drawing of what I'm taking off and use an awl to punch holes for the bolts or fasteners to go in......I use this mostly for taking off engine cases that have different sized bolts.

Good advice for tracking fasteners!

Dumb question #87b.2: Why on earth would one need to pull the flywheel?

I did some research and it makes sense that clutch damage can damage the flywheel. I was thinking though that if one is not drag racing, the flywheel on this bike is going to last its life, or is it a typical maintenance item?
 
Thanks. I am terrible with spatial recognition and without having done this, never noticed :D that one cannot pull the chain past the swingarm.



Good advice for tracking fasteners!



I did some research and it makes sense that clutch damage can damage the flywheel. I was thinking though that if one is not drag racing, the flywheel on this bike is going to last its life, or is it a typical maintenance item?
I've been riding and wrenching on my bikes ever since I can remember and I have yet to ever pull a flywheel off a bike....

I'm sure there are times it has to be done but I'd reckon mighty few...
 
The flywheel in a car vs a bike are somewhat different, because of the difference in clutch designs between the two.
The flywheel in a bike engine sometimes covers the stator, and needs to be removed to access the ring gear for the starter, and the stator.
There is a hub holding the magnets that taper-locks on to the crankshaft's keyed shaft that comes through the engine case, which is what covers the stator.
Other times the stator is mounted inside the cover, and the flywheel may only need removed to access the ring gear, or to split the case.
The flywheel is on the opposite side of the engine, opposite the clutch.
I am unsure of what design your Honda engine has in regards to needing a flywheel puller.
 
A flywheel puller set has all the different sizes that you will need for motorcycles in general(aside from bike specific specialty tools), and they are not expensive.
For me, I use them 2 to 3 times a year, sometimes more.
For you, it may be a once to never, but still good to have on hand in the moment, vs ordering it then, especially given the low cost, $40-$50
The whole point/plan is for you to be completely self sufficient with your motorcycles; right?
 
The flywheel in a car vs a bike are somewhat different, because of the difference in clutch designs between the two.
The flywheel in a bike engine sometimes covers the stator, and needs to be removed to access the ring gear for the starter, and the stator.
There is a hub holding the magnets that taper-locks on to the crankshaft's keyed shaft that comes through the engine case, which is what covers the stator.
Other times the stator is mounted inside the cover, and the flywheel may only need removed to access the ring gear, or to split the case.
The flywheel is on the opposite side of the engine, opposite the clutch.
I am unsure of what design your Honda engine has in regards to needing a flywheel puller.
A flywheel puller set has all the different sizes that you will need for motorcycles in general(aside from bike specific specialty tools), and they are not expensive.
For me, I use them 2 to 3 times a year, sometimes more.
For you, it may be a once to never, but still good to have on hand in the moment, vs ordering it then, especially given the low cost, $40-$50
The whole point/plan is for you to be completely self sufficient with your motorcycles; right?
I guess I've been lucky as I have never had to remove one on a bike (knock on wood that is).
 
…there are things like a 32mm 1/2 drive socket to fit the front sprocket and rear axle nut.
I am reading around here that my sprocket and axle nuts are 36mm. Is this right? Someone posted that the shaft is larger on a gen 2. The axle nut and sprocket part numbers do not indicate the size like some makes do.

What depth of socket is required for the sprocket? I measure 24mm of depth for the rear axle nut and a shallow socket has 40 mm of clearance.

You will need a big allen socket like this one pictured for the front axle.
Interesting: This is a ratchet that I found at Snap-On. Despite being a ratchet they expect one to use it for removal without problems.

1692997447899.png
 
I am reading around here that my sprocket and axle nuts are 36mm. Is this right? Someone posted that the shaft is larger on a gen 2. The axle nut and sprocket part numbers do not indicate the size like some makes do.

What depth of socket is required for the sprocket? I measure 24mm of depth for the rear axle nut and a shallow socket has 40 mm of clearance.


Interesting: This is a ratchet that I found at Snap-On. Despite being a ratchet they expect one to use it for removal without problems.

View attachment 1669954

The 36mm is correct, I'm sorry for the typo.

Both sockets need not be deep, but are fine as deep wells, which gives you some space away from the fastener, and room to put your hand on it for support.

The axle has a hex-nut on the other side, so that Snap-on tool looks really cool.
Do you have a price or a link?
I may not be able to live without that...
lmao
 
Back
Top