True cruise control
- Thread starter Pipefighter248
- Start date
Everything laid out on the work bench.
You will have to get 1 or 2 vacuum check valves. I got two from autozone in their help section; part number 47149.
Also need a bolt to mount the servo unit. M6-1,0 X 16 MM found at autozone; part number 980-216.
Have to get a few parts to make up a vacuum canister.
I went with some 2" PVC
2- 2" PVC end caps
2- 3/16" X 1/4" Brass hose barbs.
<!--EDIT|pipefighter248
Reason for Edit: None given...|1142708676 -->
Also need a bolt to mount the servo unit. M6-1,0 X 16 MM found at autozone; part number 980-216.
Have to get a few parts to make up a vacuum canister.
I went with some 2" PVC
2- 2" PVC end caps
2- 3/16" X 1/4" Brass hose barbs.
<!--EDIT|pipefighter248
Reason for Edit: None given...|1142708676 -->
The best place to mount the servo unit is in the rear section on the right side of the bike. There is already a bolt hole there that can be used with the bolt picked up at autozone.
You have to remove the bracket already mounted to the unit, cut off some excess and bend it to look like the pic below.
Before mounting the servo motor, you will have to change some setting on it.
Remove the little plastic cover on it held by two small phillips screws. You need to remove the jumper beside the dip switches to let the unit know it is being installed on a manual transmission.
Set the switches as shown below.
SW1 ON Set the Pulses Per Mile for the necessary manual transmission rate of 4000
SW2 OFF Set the Pulses Per Mile for the necessary manual transmission rate of 4000
SW3 OFF Set the Speed Signal for Tach Only
SW4 ON LOW sensitivity (I had good luck with LOW, you may try MEDIUM if you have any problems)
SW5 OFF LOW sensitivity
SW6 OFF To use the included Control Pad
SW7 ON Select“coil†as the source of timing pulses
<!--EDIT|pipefighter248
Reason for Edit: None given...|1142710685 -->
You have to remove the bracket already mounted to the unit, cut off some excess and bend it to look like the pic below.
Before mounting the servo motor, you will have to change some setting on it.
Remove the little plastic cover on it held by two small phillips screws. You need to remove the jumper beside the dip switches to let the unit know it is being installed on a manual transmission.
Set the switches as shown below.
SW1 ON Set the Pulses Per Mile for the necessary manual transmission rate of 4000
SW2 OFF Set the Pulses Per Mile for the necessary manual transmission rate of 4000
SW3 OFF Set the Speed Signal for Tach Only
SW4 ON LOW sensitivity (I had good luck with LOW, you may try MEDIUM if you have any problems)
SW5 OFF LOW sensitivity
SW6 OFF To use the included Control Pad
SW7 ON Select“coil†as the source of timing pulses
<!--EDIT|pipefighter248
Reason for Edit: None given...|1142710685 -->
You will have to route the cable coming off of the servo to under the gas tank.
Here is 2 pics of the servo mounted in the said location.
Here is 2 pics of the servo mounted in the said location.
Another servo mount.
Next, we will modify the gold colored bracket by cutting off the excess and making it look like below. This will hold the cable coming from the servo.
Here is a perfect spot to mount the above bracket under the fuel tank.
Next, take the small connecter that looks like a hangmans noose and hang it from the throttle bell housing like below. I put a small zip tie beside of it just in case, it seems secure and doesn't act like it will come off.
Pic 2 to show the connection a little better.
Here is a pic of the cable attached to the bracket.
Now use the bead chain and connect the noose coming from the bell housing to the cable coming off of the servo motor.
Not my pic, but shows what it will look like.
NOTE: Be 100% sure that the cable will bind on anything. If the cable gets caught up, it would not be a good scenerio.
<!--EDIT|pipefighter248
Reason for Edit: None given...|1142710878 -->
Not my pic, but shows what it will look like.
NOTE: Be 100% sure that the cable will bind on anything. If the cable gets caught up, it would not be a good scenerio.
<!--EDIT|pipefighter248
Reason for Edit: None given...|1142710878 -->
Next we need to make a vacuum canister.
Take one of the PVC end caps; drill and tap it for both of the brass hose barbs on one end cap. Install the hose barbs with a little bit of silicone to help with leaks.
I made the canister out of 2" PVC cut to 7 3/4".
Glue on both end caps and put on some paint if you want to make it look a little better.
Here is an after pic of mine made and mounted in the bike under the tank.
Take one of the PVC end caps; drill and tap it for both of the brass hose barbs on one end cap. Install the hose barbs with a little bit of silicone to help with leaks.
I made the canister out of 2" PVC cut to 7 3/4".
Glue on both end caps and put on some paint if you want to make it look a little better.
Here is an after pic of mine made and mounted in the bike under the tank.
Pic with hose barbs and vacuum lines already installed to give an idea.
Now we need to find some vacuum connections. I used 2 places. The first being in the pic below that I stole off Jinkster. Tie in with a tee here and route it to the vacuum canister.
For the second connection I tied into the nipple on throttle body number one whenever the PAIR valve is removed. I figure it was there not being used, so I added it.
Probably not necessary, but may help.
Probably not necessary, but may help.
Be sure to put the Check valve in line before tieing the vacuum line into the vacuum canister. This helps hold the vacuum in reserve whenever the enigne loses some vacuum.
Wiring.
I don't have any pics to help with the wiring, but just use the wiring diagram below.
Do not cut the blue wire. It has a noise supressor built in that will not work correctly if cut.
Run the blue wire to the coil. I don't remember what color for sure, but I know it was not the gray colored one.
<!--EDIT|pipefighter248
Reason for Edit: None given...|1142710375 -->
I don't have any pics to help with the wiring, but just use the wiring diagram below.
Do not cut the blue wire. It has a noise supressor built in that will not work correctly if cut.
Run the blue wire to the coil. I don't remember what color for sure, but I know it was not the gray colored one.
<!--EDIT|pipefighter248
Reason for Edit: None given...|1142710375 -->
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