True cruise control

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That should be about it.
I know there wasn't much info given on wiring, but it is not hard if you follow the wiring diagram above.
Should take a few hours to install.
Take it out on the street for a test run.
Enjoy.
 
Another method of mounting a vacuum canister is to use 1" PVC and mount it below the servo unit attached to the subframe. This is how another member made his, but I didn't have enough room with an undertail.

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For the second connection I tied into the nipple on throttle body number one whenever the PAIR valve is removed. I figure it was there not being used, so I added it.
Probably not necessary, but may help.
I have a good understanding of what you did up to this point and would like clarification on how and where you exactly (visual) tied into the throttle body.

Thanks
Ty
 
For the second connection I tied into the nipple on throttle body number one whenever the PAIR valve is removed. I figure it was there not being used, so I added it.
Probably not necessary, but may help.
I have a good understanding of what you did up to this point and would like clarification on how and where you exactly (visual) tied into the throttle body.

Thanks
Ty
Whenever you remove the PAIR Valve assembly you cap off a nipple on the first throttle body. I just put some vacuum line on the nipple since it was not being used. You could probably get away without it, since you are already pulling vacuum from all 4 throttle bodies.
 
For the second connection I tied into the nipple on throttle body number one whenever the PAIR valve is removed. I figure it was there not being used, so I added it.
Probably not necessary, but may help.
I have a good  understanding of what you did up to this point and would like clarification on how and where you exactly (visual) tied into the throttle body.

Thanks
Ty
Whenever you remove the PAIR Valve assembly you cap off a nipple on the first throttle body. I just put some vacuum line on the nipple since it was not being used. You could probably get away without it, since you are already pulling vacuum from all 4 throttle bodies.
So this doesn't apply for those who haven't done the pair mod, correct ?
 
For the second connection I tied into the nipple on throttle body number one whenever the PAIR valve is removed. I figure it was there not being used, so I added it.
Probably not necessary, but may help.
I have a good understanding of what you did up to this point and would like clarification on how and where you exactly (visual) tied into the throttle body.

Thanks
Ty
Whenever you remove the PAIR Valve assembly you cap off a nipple on the first throttle body. I just put some vacuum line on the nipple since it was not being used. You could probably get away without it, since you are already pulling vacuum from all 4 throttle bodies.
So this doesn't apply for those who haven't done the pair mod, correct ?
You can still do this mod if you have the PAIR Valve. You will just use the one connection shown above.
 
Also for those running aftermarket undertails or LED's you will have to pick up a relay and wire it in also. One wire going to the purple wire from the servo, one to a ground, and the other two wires from relay to the switched brake light wire.
 
Nice write-up!!!!! That's a beautiful write-up.
Real nice job.................
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and with all the pics to........ how could anybody go wrong reading this thread and trying to install a cruise control...
just beautiful...
Real good job PIPE...................
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Thank for the detailed write up and photos Nathan !

You da Man, Playa !
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I just ordered mine and should be here by tuesday.



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I just finished installing mine, before reading this thread. DOH!

If anyone is looking, I have an open box AudioVox CCS-100. It is missing the dash switch unit, which can be bought separately (I've seen it for $50). AudioVox makes other switch controls for this kit as well if you are thinking about installiing in your car. $20 plus shipping.
 
I just finished installing mine, before reading this thread. DOH!

If anyone is looking, I have an open box AudioVox CCS-100. It is missing the dash switch unit, which can be bought separately (I've seen it for $50). AudioVox makes other switch controls for this kit as well if you are thinking about installiing in your car. $20 plus shipping.
What went wrong?
 
The install went well. It would have gone a bit faster with some of the info in the thread. I didn't think the switch looked waterproof, so I water proofed it. I messed up the contacts in the switch in the process. It was faster buying another kit at the local auto parts store to get the switch than getting a replacement switch.
 
The install went well.  It would have gone a bit faster with some of the info in the thread.  I didn't think the switch looked waterproof, so I water proofed it.  I messed up the contacts in the switch in the process.  It was faster buying another kit at the local auto parts store to get the switch than getting a replacement switch.
I had no luck finding a kit locally and had to order it online. Also is the switch waterproof or not ? I thought I read on the STN site that someone used silicone to waterproof the contacts in the switch housing.

Nathan
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The install went well. It would have gone a bit faster with some of the info in the thread. I didn't think the switch looked waterproof, so I water proofed it. I messed up the contacts in the switch in the process. It was faster buying another kit at the local auto parts store to get the switch than getting a replacement switch.
So you got it installed and everything is working?
If so, if you did anything different then posted, add to what I put.
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