Want More Torque
- Thread starter oskala
- Start date
I run 17-45 and I couldn't imagine the ride without it being lowered. I rode my buddies stock 09 while I was home and can't pin it like mine. I also pull him pretty hard but shift more.
Imho I would try 100 bucks worth of sprockets before a few grand worth of engine work. At least to get my by until I did the motor work
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Imho I would try 100 bucks worth of sprockets before a few grand worth of engine work. At least to get my by until I did the motor work
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If my bike was lowered, i would be dead by now...
would be fine if I was just running straight lines but that whole "get around a corner" thing has me moving the bike up 1" in the back..
not much for drag racing the way it is setup now .. just powers the front tire up in 1st and 2nd... 3rd will 12o'clock you if you are day dreaming and hit a bump..
My ankles would be broke from stopsign tipovers if I went up 1. 30" inseam is a sob. Lol. Its not a carver but I'm gearing toward drag. Will be stretched when I go home again.
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should see me on a dirtbike... tip toe dance and go like hell
Busashot
Registered
If the majority state using better gearing, there must be something about it that holds water.
If you want more bottom end power, degree the cams for it, add compression by a point or more, run a bit more timing, run a +3 tooth rear sprocket and remove all the weight you can from the bike. I guarantee you will have trouble from roasting the rear tire on the street. Your top end will still be over 170mph. Obviously if you replace the exhaust with an aftermarket one, you will shave over 20lbs right there alone as well as gain HP/TQ from 6k - redline.
I have a few simple tricks that can give it a little more snap off idle but one thing at a time.
If you want more bottom end power, degree the cams for it, add compression by a point or more, run a bit more timing, run a +3 tooth rear sprocket and remove all the weight you can from the bike. I guarantee you will have trouble from roasting the rear tire on the street. Your top end will still be over 170mph. Obviously if you replace the exhaust with an aftermarket one, you will shave over 20lbs right there alone as well as gain HP/TQ from 6k - redline.
I have a few simple tricks that can give it a little more snap off idle but one thing at a time.
tclause
Registered
Stole this quote I think you probably want to do some more research on how hp works vs torque.
So what advantage does a higher horsepower engine have compared to a lower one, assuming they both have similar torque curves? In short, the higher horsepower one will perform much better.
So what advantage does a higher horsepower engine have compared to a lower one, assuming they both have similar torque curves? In short, the higher horsepower one will perform much better.
BiggDaddyBusa08
Registered
The biggest thing he will have to be concerned with is lifting the front wheel up everytime he takes off. I am a bigg guy as my screen name implies. On the street I use 16/43, for drag racing I use 16/45 or even a 16/47. I have tried a 16/50 but that was waaayy too much ,could not keep the front down from launch to 3rd gear every run pulled the front up. Befor you waste your money on engine parts try going +2 or +3 on the rear sprocket and ride it for a while . I think you will find what your looking for by doing that and save your $$$ .
oskala
Banned
Many thanks for everone taking the time to express their opinions. I really appreciate it!!
I'll look into changing my gearing once I get some more miles on my bike. The thing is my '08 FJR had around 100 ft. lbs. Tq. and it left me wanting more. But that bike was about 50 lbs. heavier than my Busa.
I'll look into changing my gearing once I get some more miles on my bike. The thing is my '08 FJR had around 100 ft. lbs. Tq. and it left me wanting more. But that bike was about 50 lbs. heavier than my Busa.
+100 HP is closely related to the "acceleration" rate a motor is capable of while the torque is more closley related to the amount of "work" it will do..
we really got burned a few times from this simple fact.. gear it to get off the line and we were out of gear by the big end... took too much torque out of the motor ... (but boy did it dyno good
) just not very many free rides in the performance dept....
oskala
Banned
Thanks Busashot, this Spring along with possibly changing my gearing I will be doing a full exhaust that will work now and with my future mods (I've contacted Yoshimura and Hindle about their exhaust systems, also need to send out an email to Brocks, TiForce, Akrapovic, Tsukigi, and a few other exhaust manufactures), EFI remapping (the EPA mandated AFR is 14.7-1 which is to lean for me), a great tune which may include advancing my timing a little bit at a time (detonation is not good!), and a few other mods like manual cam chain adj., etc.. I may also degree my cams and try running them a hair retarded?
Then next Winter I'll be pulling my head for a porting, new or reground cams, and to fix the squish which should add at least .5 bump in compression and promote better turbulence. Hopefully there is a thinner Cometic Busa Gen II head gasket available or I may have to take a few thousands off the head.
oskala
Banned
+100 HP is closely related to the "acceleration" rate a motor is capable of while the torque is more closley related to the amount of "work" it will do..
we really got burned a few times from this simple fact.. gear it to get off the line and we were out of gear by the big end... took too much torque out of the motor ... (but boy did it dyno good
IMHO "acceleration" is "work" which is a result of Torque. HP is potential.
For your set up,i would prefer either Tsukigi or brocks exhaust.I believe only these 2 brands in terms of workmanship and they can fully maximise your full potential of your port heads and etc
tclause
Registered
arrggg you have to have a balance of the two is what he is saying
this thread is pretty classic stuff for any speed shop... I am guessing that he has some vocational training in some kind of gasoline powered machines.. (has a decent general knowledge of motors)
However there are some realities that hit in the real world when going to apply those teachings... Reality of $$ that is..
that and theory and real world collide some times... Basic port and pocket work are pretty easy but still need done by an expert..
I really like the CNC thing.... every port job the same every time? and $$ should be a lot cheaper than tying some guy up half a day grinding away..
Would love to see a P/Stock bike head for a Busa... (motor p0rn)
tclause
Registered
this thread is pretty classic stuff for any speed shop... I am guessing that he has some vocational training in some kind of gasoline powered machines.. (has a decent general knowledge of motors)
However there are some realities that hit in the real world when going to apply those teachings... Reality of $$ that is..
Basic port and pocket work are pretty easy but still need done by an expert..
I really like the CNC thing.... every port job the same every time? and $$ should be a lot cheaper than tying some guy up half a day grinding away..
Would love to see a P/Stock bike head for a Busa... (motor p0rn)
Knowledge + Experience = Wisdom
I think you'll find that gearing will be all you need to catch that elusive Busa. I'm running 17/45 and I'm sitting 4over, lowered 2" in the rear, and 3/4" up front. You will be pleasantly surprised, may want to have a spare pair of shorts.
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