What’s the best combo on the Gen 2 on hitting the drag strip it’s bone stock now

[Got-Busa?]

Can u ride a no bar hand clutch bike? If not, Lower it, do the clutch mod, clutch stack at 1.99, heavy springs, and set the air shift kill At like 50-60 and start learning. Don’t worry about nitrous, the shock, or going fast. You and your son take turns practicing being smooth from the launch to 330ft.

BINGO!!

Just leave it stock and get seat time. Work on going 9’s 100% stock first then slam and prep it with Brock’s basic mods until you are low-9 or high 8’s. Once you’ve perfected that, then start with the nitrous and go for low-8 high-7’s. No reason to spend a bunch of money or any money until you can use what you have. I’d even recommend you throw it on a dyno just to verify the bike is healthy before racing. You don’t want him learning on a bike with any issues and get frustrated changing parts that might make any problem worse or harder to diagnose.

Welcome to the forum and enjoy the time with your son!

 

[RedBull]

#Again ~ #$eatTime *

if you never learn how to ride ~ you will never be a fast racer .

 

[TonyM995]

The reason I asked what clutch is in the bike is because that's a huge limiting factor. The Brocks clutch mod is required for a drag bike if you ask me unless you're going to a lock-up clutch which would be one step further. Dnyce and Got Busa basically echoed that thought.

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You can add in stiffer springs as well.

Clutch Cushion Kit Suzuki Hayabusa (08-20) and B-King (08-11)

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In this video he is using 3 of the 6 stiffer springs if I recall correctly.

 

[Dennis]

As mentioned by several, start by practicing with what you already have. Get a three hole lowering link and drop it to the bottom hole. Get a front strap. You can use the Carpenter clutch mod instead of the Brocks if you want to save some $$. If you do ECU flash you don't need a kill box or any launch control. A flat pan and sidewinder makes the bike safer to race.

After you are well practiced, you can even control a dry nitrous system with ECU editor but a progressive controller is a nice addition. Of course a longer arm and tail is always nice. The length will be limited only by your track surface conditions and what tire you want to run. If you get lots of practice before messing with an arm and nitrous you will have learned enough to have a much better idea what you really want.

Your ultimate setup with a good shock may not work well when switching between riders that are more than 50 pounds different.

Again on ECU Editor topic, you can do a LOT if you want to stay with a stock ECU.

 

[Blizzard920]

The reason I asked what clutch is in the bike is because that's a huge limiting factor. The Brocks clutch mod is required for a drag bike if you ask me unless you're going to a lock-up clutch which would be one step further. Dnyce and Got Busa basically echoed that thought.

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Buy Ultra-Light Billet Clutch Mod Kit Suzuki Hayabusa (99-20), B-King (08-11), and TL1000R (98-03) SKU: 270461 at the price of US$ 279 | BrocksPerformance.com

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You can add in stiffer springs as well.

Clutch Cushion Kit Suzuki Hayabusa (08-20) and B-King (08-11)

Buy Clutch Cushion Kit Suzuki Hayabusa (08-20) and B-King (08-11) SKU: 270136 at the price of US$ 319 | BrocksPerformance.com

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In this video he is using 3 of the 6 stiffer springs if I recall correctly.

Thank you for the videos that’s very informational I’m glad I got on this site everyone has been awesome

 

[Blizzard920]

As mentioned by several, start by practicing with what you already have. Get a three hole lowering link and drop it to the bottom hole. Get a front strap. You can use the Carpenter clutch mod instead of the Brocks if you want to save some $$. If you do ECU flash you don't need a kill box or any launch control. A flat pan and sidewinder makes the bike safer to race.

After you are well practiced, you can even control a dry nitrous system with ECU editor but a progressive controller is a nice addition. Of course a longer arm and tail is always nice. The length will be limited only by your track surface conditions and what tire you want to run. If you get lots of practice before messing with an arm and nitrous you will have learned enough to have a much better idea what you really want.

Your ultimate setup with a good shock may not work well when switching between riders that are more than 50 pounds different.

Again on ECU Editor topic, you can do a LOT if you want to stay with a stock ECU.

Thank you for the info you seem very knowledgeable in this area I’m probably going to have a lot of questions with all this new technology out today so many different options and opinions I like to soak up all the info lol

 

[Dennis]

Thank you for the info you seem very knowledgeable in this area I’m probably going to have a lot of questions with all this new technology out today so many different options and opinions I like to soak up all the info lol

No problem. Hit me up on whatever you want. I do have some crude electrical diagrams of the stuff I did to my stock ECU bike that worked pretty well.

 

[RedBull]

Loudest Exhaust | Busa Mods

Who makes the loudest dual exhaust that is either a slip-on or a dual full system. I like the dual look and want it loud as a safety feature. CJ

www.hayabusa.org

#1 ~ #Real$eatTimeMatters *

 

[Blizzard920]

As mentioned by several, start by practicing with what you already have. Get a three hole lowering link and drop it to the bottom hole. Get a front strap. You can use the Carpenter clutch mod instead of the Brocks if you want to save some $$. If you do ECU flash you don't need a kill box or any launch control. A flat pan and sidewinder makes the bike safer to race.

After you are well practiced, you can even control a dry nitrous system with ECU editor but a progressive controller is a nice addition. Of course a longer arm and tail is always nice. The length will be limited only by your track surface conditions and what tire you want to run. If you get lots of practice before messing with an arm and nitrous you will have learned enough to have a much better idea what you really want.

Your ultimate setup with a good shock may not work well when switching between riders that are more than 50 pounds different.

Again on ECU Editor topic, you can do a LOT if you want to stay with a stock ECU.

Hey what’s sprocket combo would you run on Gen 2 10-14” swingarm big bore pistons, stock rods , head port and polished voodoo exhaust, air shifter , and going with a 50shot

 

[Blizzard920]

BINGO!!

Just leave it stock and get seat time. Work on going 9’s 100% stock first then slam and prep it with Brock’s basic mods until you are low-9 or high 8’s. Once you’ve perfected that, then start with the nitrous and go for low-8 high-7’s. No reason to spend a bunch of money or any money until you can use what you have. I’d even recommend you throw it on a dyno just to verify the bike is healthy before racing. You don’t want him learning on a bike with any issues and get frustrated changing parts that might make any problem worse or harder to diagnose.

Welcome to the forum and enjoy the time with your son!

BINGO!!

Just leave it stock and get seat time. Work on going 9’s 100% stock first then slam and prep it with Brock’s basic mods until you are low-9 or high 8’s. Once you’ve perfected that, then start with the nitrous and go for low-8 high-7’s. No reason to spend a bunch of money or any money until you can use what you have. I’d even recommend you throw it on a dyno just to verify the bike is healthy before racing. You don’t want him learning on a bike with any issues and get frustrated changing parts that might make any problem worse or harder to diagnose.

Welcome to the forum and enjoy the time with your son!

 

[Blizzard920]

Hey what’s sprocket combo would you run on Gen 2 10-14” swingarm big bore pistons, stock rods , head port and polished voodoo exhaust, air shifter , and going with a 50shot

 

[13B-RX3]

Can u ride a no bar hand clutch bike? If not, Lower it, do the clutch mod, clutch stack at 1.99, heavy springs, and set the air shift kill At like 50-60 and start learning. Don’t worry about nitrous, the shock, or going fast. You and your son take turns practicing being smooth from the launch to 330ft.

Would that be 50-60ms? I set mine to 100ms because I didn't know what a good starting point was.

 

[Bumblebee]

View attachment 1660133

Loudest Exhaust | Busa Mods

Who makes the loudest dual exhaust that is either a slip-on or a dual full system. I like the dual look and want it loud as a safety feature. CJ

www.hayabusa.org

View attachment 1660134
#1 ~ #Real$eatTimeMatters *

That tee shirt says it all......

 

[Dennis]

Hey what’s sprocket combo would you run on Gen 2 10-14” swingarm big bore pistons, stock rods , head port and polished voodoo exhaust, air shifter , and going with a 50shot

View attachment 1660737

It really depends. I would recommend spraying about 15 hp off the line, running 18/44 gearing and ramp in the nitrous as quickly as possible. This is more important than increasing the jet size. If you are a heavy guy you might need a 48 on the rear. Practice getting the throttle 100% open as you leave and modulate the clutch to keep the rpm's down around 7-8k as you are pulling off a 1.30 sixty foot. Throttle should be open 0.2 seconds after the clutch starts to move.

 

[Dennis]

Would that be 50-60ms? I set mine to 100ms because I didn't know what a good starting point was.

Stock gen2 can do 45 ms. 100 will really upset the chassis and yield a rough shift.

 

[13B-RX3]

Stock gen2 can do 45 ms. 100 will really upset the chassis and yield a rough shift.

Does the same apply to a Gen1?

 

[Dnyce]

100 is too much no matter what gen.

 

[13B-RX3]

I'll try 60ms and go from there.

Thanks for the advise

 

[Dennis]

I'll try 60ms and go from there.

Thanks for the advise

As long as your kill delay (relative to solenoid activation) is good, you should be able to get below 60. Either way, 60 will be immensely better than 100.

 

[13B-RX3]

As long as your kill delay (relative to solenoid activation) is good, you should be able to get below 60. Either way, 60 will be immensely better than 100.

My question was a little misleading I think. I am setting up a QS, not an airshifter. I went back and looked at a datalog. Best I can tell it takes about 63ms before it's actually in the next gear, with no activation delay. I adjusted to 65ms kill time with a 10ms activation delay. I think that may be a good starting point.

Thanks to everyone for the advise. Sorry to the OP for the highjack.