What brand of brake pads and when to replace rotors?

ROADTOAD1340 said:
They are what my mate ran , they are just P4 with large piston size , great caliper , but pretty steep price !! Do a worldwide search , say Carpimoto , or in your own country , Powerbarn I think had a deal at one stage , just check around . But those calipers are good , so is even piston calipers on the other street Brembo bro , just decide buy and ride bro .
You will be happy with either I can tell you .
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well... its gonna be around 3-4 grand before im done.. im trying to get the best calipers I can find…. the 32/36 are more because they are billet and have bigger pistons unavailable anywhere besides BILLET monoblocks.... gp4rr is the way to go but really blingy.
 
Jimbusaha said:
I think I'm going with these EBC pro-lites ....the front and back look the same

View attachment 1583834
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I got them on today! They don't look exactly the same...no gold on the rear rotor but I'm going with it.... didn't have time to break in the front. Ahhhhhh but guys, I have a new dilemma....Oooh boy...well I put my rear seat down and its locked in but I forgot to connect the cable for the lock..Aaahhhh!! So my key won't unlock it....I'm sure this has happened to someone before??
 
Jimbusaha said:
Why lightweight? Lightweight = less life?
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No Lightweight = less weight!:D

If you're buying aftermarket goodies, go for lightweight especially on rotating items. Brakes might be a possible exception because you definitely want brakes hat work first and foremost but I would be researching the weight specs. Rotors are on a wheel an awful long time.

I have extremely lightweight CZ rotors on my Carrazzeria front wheel and they make a groaning noise under hard braking. IDK if it's the thin rotor or if it's that they're full foating but that groan has always made me concerned. SO do your homework, get recommendations but I would also suggest shopping for light weight.
 
...and if you want better more powerful brakes, I'd start with the mastercylinder. That's where the squeezing power comes from. Pads grab more or less and so do rotors. Calipers----aside from weight, I think a caliper is a caliper but the Brembos sure look cool.
 
Brake lines....steel braided won't matter unless you are a highly skilled track rider or if those stock lines are in terrible shape which they very well could be given they'd be 13 years old. But get SS lines anyway because they're cool and just better and I'll bet a lot cheaper than OEM.
 
LOVE Berringer stuff!!! However, if you want the lightest weight in a reliable front caliper, I hear ISR is the way to go and they look extremely cool although they're plain silver. If you can anodize them, I'd go with black housing / gold pistons!! Berringer all the way for quality, get out your wallet when you see all the cool brake stuff they have! I don't think their small rear caliper will mount to busa because we have that pivot but that Berringer rear caliper weighs almost nothing and looks great too.
 
...but before you go out and drop a few thou on aftermarket calipers, be aware the stockers are probably pretty light. I'd have to dig into my reasearch but Berringer fronts were not a whole lot lighter than OEM ZX-14 calipers. It was about a half pound of weight reduction with two berringer 4 pots....maybe about 6 oz with the 6 pots. The busa is probably similar but I never weighted those calipers.
 
I had a set of ISR 's , 6 piston , was going to put them on a GSXR old skool oil burner , it had 6 individual pads , really beautifully made , these were axial mounted . I have always liked ISR since seeing them on Ghostriders turbo Busa , am still thinking of possibly running the radial items on my next Busa , I have awhile to decide .
I think the main reason you would replace your standard Tokico calipers is for better braking performance , otherwise the stock Busa cast Tokico's are fairly light anyway . You want the trick aftermarket for improved braking ability , and then , great bonus if weight loss gain .
 
Jimbusaha said:
I have a 2005 busa and never had to change the pads so I need help getting them off. I checked the rotors and the rear is 3.5 mm thick. The manuel says the front can't be less than 4.5 and it's 4 mm. So I guess I'll need rotors unless the minimum isn't that critical?
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Depends on your countries laws around WOF warrant of fitness or whatever you have . 4 mm rotors mean do need to replace them. Stick with Suzuki pads/ rotors . Avoid higher temp sinted pads as they never achieve optimum value but increase rotor wear . I'm on my 3rd set of rotors after 80000 kms on my 2016 bike
 
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