What Did You Do To Your Busa, Today?

Did someone say junk in the trunk?

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Left work, rode over something invisible and popped a fat hole in the center of my rear tire...probably getting another Road 5 this week.

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They’re repairable you know. Using the short, fat sticky golden worms I’ve repaired four rear tire punctures. Each tire lasted until the thread wore out with no leaks. Pashnit uses the plug type successfully too. Way cheaper than another tire, especially Road 6s.
 
I’m fitting my ABM Superbike handlebar conversion kit today, 2 hours into it and more than half the work is done!
Best part is I don’t have to make any cuts to the screen or nose fairing.. I’m hoping the brake and clutch levers clear it …

I’ll finish it off soon and give you guys a report on how it feels to ride… initial impressions.
I sat on it and it feels great!
Just gotta get some lowered foot pegs now and some raising links for the rear end.
Pics… mandatory lol

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Ok, so I’ve taken it for a short ride tonight before it got dark and I can confirm this is a transformational advantage for riding the Hayabusa… it is AMAZING!
The real difference is in the light steering and easy manoeuvreabilty at slow speeds, just great!
At 100mph unfortunately you’re catching the wind a lot more due to the upright riding position but I just need a taller screen to alleviate this issue.
Included in the kit from ABM was a pair of mirror spacing blocks, nicely CNC machined and anodised dark grey, to allow for not having to look at my elbows in the mirrors.
Turns at speed require a lot less effort at the bars and it’s just easier to ride.
My front brake has improved after fitting the new braided hoses too.
The old hoses are stainless braided with 2 hoses fitted to the m/cyl ( GSXR1000 Nissin radial pump) and each hose connected to each caliper.
The new set up is 1 hose from the m/cyl to the right caliper and a loop hose going from right to left caliper looping over the mudguard.
Now I know that set up is despised by most purists ( @Berlin Germany being an example) and notoriously difficult to expel 100% of the air in the looped hose due to the high point in the hose, but I employed a method that I learned from the bike shop I worked at for 5 years…. I took a large 50cc syringe filled with brake fluid and attached it to the right caliper bleed nipple using rubber vacuum hose.
I squeezed fluid up the main hose to the m/cyl and watched the air bubbles rise up thru the reservoir fluid.
Once there were no more bubbles, opened the left caliper bleed nipple and attached my bleed bottle to it.I then squeezed more fluid from right to left caliper, until no more air bubbles coming out.
Checked my lever at the m/cyl for feel… not spongey but not firm enuff either.
Gave it one more full bleed at both calipers… lever travel is minimal and lever feel is hard and solid with powerful braking.
I’m very happy with the way it went, often bleeding brakes can be very frustrating and time consuming… it took me 15 mins and the clutch hydraulics took 5 mins.
Anyway, I’m fitting the side panels back on in the morning and going for a 200km ride to try it out.
My back, neck and wrists will thank me for this I’m sure.
Last decent ride I went on with the stock setup took 2 days to recover from lol.
I love the look of it too..
And I didn’t have to cut the screen for clearance either!!

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@Kiwi Rider

gregg?

what an "ape hanger" bar did ya mount there ?

with that i guess / suppose you will have to cut the screen for keeping the max steering angles.
or u turn the bar "some meters to the rear".

no, in my view that bar is much to high to fit like at mine to the busa.
That, my son, is a Renthal 754 Road Low
Can you post up a pic of your bar set up please?
Lower? Narrower?
Which brand and model do you have on your ol’ bag of bolts Busa?
By the way, it’s “Greg”… NOT “gregg”
Ok?
Lol.
 
@Kiwi Rider

hi greg (< only 1 :-) ) - sorry about doubling the "g"

watch the drawing at my former posting ;-)
where u can see the values of the bar that i use and always used (to avoid e.g. any screen cuttings)

and perhaps u watch again my homepage for the "situation" at my former black gen1 + here too at my present ´00

the superbike handlebar I recommend is the one from LSL type A01 in alu, silver .
by me been installed dozens of times - always with the best results
here its values in millimeters !
5b.ec.47.Skizze01LSLSUPERBIKELENKERA011002148086020.JPG


the how to u can read here at my next page and there will be no need to cut the screen !!! i´ve got the same yoke at my ´00 busa - so i know 100& sure what i write ;-)

bar ends - pleas ignore those with rubber

b5.89.de.10005301890FR16.JPG



but use only those with steel "clamps" like these e.g.


61.2b.9b.GazziniLenkerendenschwarz10028739890FR18.JPG


__________________________________________________________________________

and sorry - you're hoping wrong - I 99.9% save think you'll find the ‘f…ckin’ over the fender type in the package.
all sellers of sets ignore the chance to sell 2 loooong hoses and grab "only in the basket" - they are just salespeople and have no idea about applied technology !!!
__________________________________________________________________________

to the yoke and its bar clamps one more thing - please note this page of mine and the drawings for "version 2" - you should know this, but I still think it is urgently worth mentioning.
 
That, my son, is a Renthal 754 Road Low
Can you post up a pic of your bar set up please?
Lower? Narrower?
Which brand and model do you have on your ol’ bag of bolts Busa?
By the way, it’s “Greg”… NOT “gregg”
Ok?
Lol.
to me / in my view ur bar is too high - seemingly !

or does the whole thing in the photos distort so much that it deceives me?

so if that fits without cutting the screen i apologize .
 
Am currently trying to figure out if I wanna ride in 40-50° temps or trailer my bike the 10 mins down the road from my old house (separated from soon to be ex wife). Don't get divorced....what a cluster F
Trailer it and have 1 less interaction. If you ride, then you have to go back to get the vehicle unless you were borrowing someone's.
 
I'm soon going to be tearing into the Bumblebee to get it some new shoes (S-22 or 23s) and fork seals.....

I have a couple months until riding season so I'm not in a big rush....
Nice!
You gonna do the seals and tires yourself?
Or just take forks and wheels to the local workshop and have them do it?
For me, I would find it so hard to trust anyone else with my bike unless I really really knew them and trusted they’re good with their work…
How do you feel about it?
 
to me / in my view ur bar is too high - seemingly !

or does the whole thing in the photos distort so much that it deceives me?

so if that fits without cutting the screen i apologize .
The bar is 45mm higher but 25
mm narrower than the LSL bar you have.
For me it feels perfect and yes I’ve been able to mount them with clearance available at the screen sides and also the fuel tank sides when at full lock left and right.
It’s worked out better than I hoped!
The whole job took close to 4 hours, but I had a few short breaks in that time and was not working at ‘race pace’ as I would be in my employment at the dealership lol.
 
Nice!
You gonna do the seals and tires yourself?
Or just take forks and wheels to the local workshop and have them do it?
For me, I would find it so hard to trust anyone else with my bike unless I really really knew them and trusted they’re good with their work…
How do you feel about it?
I'm taking them to a local shop that used to be a Suzuki dealership but has 2 techs that have worked there for many years..

I trust those guys........

For me to buy a tire changer only to use it once or twice makes no sense.
 
Am currently trying to figure out if I wanna ride in 40-50° temps or trailer my bike the 10 mins down the road from my old house (separated from soon to be ex wife). Don't get divorced....what a cluster F
I’m feeling your pain brother, I went thru a divorce 36 years ago and the memories still cause me grief.
I hope you make the right choices and decisions, emotions run high at these times so try to keep a level head…
I know I know, easier said than done, right?
 
Nice!
You gonna do the seals and tires yourself?
Or just take forks and wheels to the local workshop and have them do it?
For me, I would find it so hard to trust anyone else with my bike unless I really really knew them and trusted they’re good with their work…
How do you feel about it?
I was also going to mention, when I updated my front end, I did the work myself and t be honest, it was a pain in the arse.......and I didn't have to do seals then.
 
I’m feeling your pain brother, I went thru a divorce 36 years ago and the memories still cause me grief.
I hope you make the right choices and decisions, emotions run high at these times so try to keep a level head…
I know I know, easier said than done, right?
I am doing everything with my kiddos in mind. I'm cordial and more than accommodating due to them. I started getting my ducks in a row when I saw it coming, so I will be okay in the end. Only thing I care about is my kids!
 
I am doing everything with my kiddos in mind. I'm cordial and more than accommodating due to them. I started getting my ducks in a row when I saw it coming, so I will be okay in the end. Only thing I care about is my kids!
My son recently went through this as well..

It's not pretty....
 
Ok, so I’ve taken it for a short ride tonight before it got dark and I can confirm this is a transformational advantage for riding the Hayabusa… it is AMAZING!
The real difference is in the light steering and easy manoeuvreabilty at slow speeds, just great!
At 100mph unfortunately you’re catching the wind a lot more due to the upright riding position but I just need a taller screen to alleviate this issue.
Included in the kit from ABM was a pair of mirror spacing blocks, nicely CNC machined and anodised dark grey, to allow for not having to look at my elbows in the mirrors.
Turns at speed require a lot less effort at the bars and it’s just easier to ride.
My front brake has improved after fitting the new braided hoses too.
The old hoses are stainless braided with 2 hoses fitted to the m/cyl ( GSXR1000 Nissin radial pump) and each hose connected to each caliper.
The new set up is 1 hose from the m/cyl to the right caliper and a loop hose going from right to left caliper looping over the mudguard.
Now I know that set up is despised by most purists ( @Berlin Germany being an example) and notoriously difficult to expel 100% of the air in the looped hose due to the high point in the hose, but I employed a method that I learned from the bike shop I worked at for 5 years…. I took a large 50cc syringe filled with brake fluid and attached it to the right caliper bleed nipple using rubber vacuum hose.
I squeezed fluid up the main hose to the m/cyl and watched the air bubbles rise up thru the reservoir fluid.
Once there were no more bubbles, opened the left caliper bleed nipple and attached my bleed bottle to it.I then squeezed more fluid from right to left caliper, until no more air bubbles coming out.
Checked my lever at the m/cyl for feel… not spongey but not firm enuff either.
Gave it one more full bleed at both calipers… lever travel is minimal and lever feel is hard and solid with powerful braking.
I’m very happy with the way it went, often bleeding brakes can be very frustrating and time consuming… it took me 15 mins and the clutch hydraulics took 5 mins.
Anyway, I’m fitting the side panels back on in the morning and going for a 200km ride to try it out.
My back, neck and wrists will thank me for this I’m sure.
Last decent ride I went on with the stock setup took 2 days to recover from lol.
I love the look of it too..
And I didn’t have to cut the screen for clearance either!!

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How do you like the visor on the helmet? I used to dual-sport with a visor. They are terrific when the sun is low.
 
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