What do you guys use to clean your chains?

jellyrug said:
LOL, thanks for your post.

Not cleaning and lubing a chain goes against all and every conventional wisdom out there. But for me, if it aint broken, don't try to fix it.

Years ago, here on the forum, everyone swore on Du-Point silicon aerosol spray, and they later brought out a chain spray which is almost the same thing. For those who have to lube, it is not a bad idea, as it keeps the chain clean.
Click to expand...

Yes, that Dupont is what I have used for years, and with good results.
I have actually yet to clean the EK3D chain on the '18 Gsxr1k either.
I did hold a rag on it and spin the back wheel after a ride in the rain, lol.
I wiped off as much of the factory lube as possible when I put the chain on new, and it still looks clean now.
I posted some off road pics here a few weeks ago, and you can see the mud on the tires.
Fifteen miles later(once back to the pavement), I was home..
and the bike was clean.
There were a few small spots of mud on the undertail, but even the tires were clean.
Some type of chemical guys wax.
The untouched chain still looked new.

20240126_141349.jpg
 
Bumblebee said:
Over the years I've evolved from the gooey, sticky, nasty old school chain lube that coats everything on the back of the bike to chain wax....
Click to expand...
Interesting, I tried the DuPont silicon wax on one of my bicycle chains, and after about 100 miles the chain developed an audible squeak. Group ride and the guys started mocking me, called me the squeaky spinner.

I think that is the best stuff for an o-ring chain though, it sheds everything else.
 
I’ve been riding since 10 y/o, now I’m 62 and owned 12-15 motorcycles mostly street bikes and I have never bought a chain and sprocket in my life. I’ve done it every way you can think of from doing nothing to excessively cleaning the chain. Previous motorcycles I sprayed with WD40 and sprayed with water to rinse then used chain wax. Now I use a rag soaked in mineral spirits and hand clean the chain every 250ish miles and then use chain wax. My chain looks like new with the pretty gold links. This method works for me.
 
guys ´n girls ?

have you ever really thought about why you oil/grease a drive chain and therefore maintain it?
it is really easy .
drive with a dry chain for about 50-100 km at legal speed.

then stop and try to touch the chain with your “NAKED” finger.

in my experience, anyone who tries this will burn his fingertip(s).

1. why? and 2. what happens?

to 1. - simply considerable friction of the rollers on the front and rear sprocket due to the lack of oil that reduces the friction.
to 2. - the 0 - or x - rings become damn hot, melt get that way thinner and can leak out EVEN more easily.

a deadly process for a chain!

the sole purpose of oiling the chain is to reduce the friction between the rollers and the 2 sprockets, which means that the chain does not get nearly as hot, the rubber seals remain in place (longer) and the grease cannot escape from the rollers as quickly.

success - the chain lasts a lot longer.

example - my brother really took it to the extreme with his Haya from '01.

bought with 1800 km on the clock, Scottoiler installed immediately, sprocket changed 3 times (every around 30,000 km) and then the entire chain set was only changed after 106,000 km.

oh yes - he's definitely not a corner parker or a flower picker/mushroom picker and on OUR highways here are completely unlimited routes.

price comparison/calculation
scottoiler round 140 €
front sprocket 14 €/piece (30-45 minutes)
chain set complete approx. 210 € (approx. 120 minutes)
scott-oil consumption approx. 0.05-0,08 l / 1200 km (15€/half liter)
____________________________________________________

there is one more important thing.

my (legal) brother never played around with the Scotty - regardless of whether the road was dry or in the heaviest driving rain.

the primarily cooling effect of the lubrication through the oil is comparable 1:1 to the sometimes heavy amount of rain that is washed onto the chain.

and it's no different for me ! with the Scotty - regardless of whether it's the Haya or the FJ1200.

and if I think about it in the next few days, I will take a photo of the (30-40000 km old) chain, which has never been cleaned, and post it here.
____________________________________________________

so "collect" (mentally) all the time you waste by cleaning and respraying the chain and spend this time replacing the fork oil (every 25,000 km / 3 years)
and
cleaning/re-greasing the bearings in the deflection block of the shock absorber.

THESE two jobs are tens of times more useful than your so-called chain maintenance.

doctors thesis - end!
 
Berlin Germany said:
guys ´n girls ?

have you ever really thought about why you oil/grease a drive chain and therefore maintain it?
it is really easy .
drive with a dry chain for about 50-100 km at legal speed.

then stop and try to touch the chain with your “NAKED” finger.

in my experience, anyone who tries this will burn his fingertip(s).

1. why? and 2. what happens?

to 1. - simply considerable friction of the rollers on the front and rear sprocket due to the lack of oil that reduces the friction.
to 2. - the 0 - or x - rings become damn hot, melt get that way thinner and can leak out EVEN more easily.

a deadly process for a chain!

the sole purpose of oiling the chain is to reduce the friction between the rollers and the 2 sprockets, which means that the chain does not get nearly as hot, the rubber seals remain in place (longer) and the grease cannot escape from the rollers as quickly.

success - the chain lasts a lot longer.

example - my brother really took it to the extreme with his Haya from '01.

bought with 1800 km on the clock, Scottoiler installed immediately, sprocket changed 3 times (every around 30,000 km) and then the entire chain set was only changed after 106,000 km.

oh yes - he's definitely not a corner parker or a flower picker/mushroom picker and on OUR highways here are completely unlimited routes.

price comparison/calculation
scottoiler round 140 €
front sprocket 14 €/piece (30-45 minutes)
chain set complete approx. 210 € (approx. 120 minutes)
scott-oil consumption approx. 0.05-0,08 l / 1200 km (15€/half liter)
____________________________________________________

there is one more important thing.

my (legal) brother never played around with the Scotty - regardless of whether the road was dry or in the heaviest driving rain.

the primarily cooling effect of the lubrication through the oil is comparable 1:1 to the sometimes heavy amount of rain that is washed onto the chain.

and it's no different for me ! with the Scotty - regardless of whether it's the Haya or the FJ1200.

and if I think about it in the next few days, I will take a photo of the (30-40000 km old) chain, which has never been cleaned, and post it here.
____________________________________________________

so "collect" (mentally) all the time you waste by cleaning and respraying the chain and spend this time replacing the fork oil (every 25,000 km / 3 years)
and
cleaning/re-greasing the bearings in the deflection block of the shock absorber.

THESE two jobs are tens of times more useful than your so-called chain maintenance.

doctors thesis - end!
Click to expand...
As you see Frank, there are many differing opinions on this subject just like tires, seats, oil and all the rest....

I guess we all do what we do and think that's the best way.....as many of us are older on this forum, I reckon change would be next to impossible for most.
 
Yep, many opinions and as long as it works for you great.

While you guys are all spending time cleaning and lubing your chains and then washing your hands afterwards, I will ride to a little cosy coffee shop close by, have a coffee and ride back.

Remind me not to use my front brake when riding behind Frank, I might just skid out on a line of oil streak on the pavement. :moon:

Below is a link, as many opinions as here, life is full of freedom. Interesting that most in the linked thread below replace their chains in much less than 15K miles, while mine is still on factory adjustment after 15K.

www.advrider.com

O-Ring chains to oil, or not to oil

So, At the Death Valley ride, I was talking to one of the members about how clean his chain was. He said it was because he does not oil it. The...
www.advrider.com www.advrider.com
 
jellyrug said:
Yep, many opinions and as long as it works for you great.

While you guys are all spending time cleaning and lubing your chains and then washing your hands afterwards, I will ride to a little cosy coffee shop close by, have a coffee and ride back.

Remind me not to use my front brake when riding behind Frank, I might just skid out on a line of oil streak on the pavement. :moon:

Below is a link, as many opinions as here, life is full of freedom. Interesting that most in the linked thread below replace their chains in much less than 15K miles, while mine is still on factory adjustment after 15K.

www.advrider.com

O-Ring chains to oil, or not to oil

So, At the Death Valley ride, I was talking to one of the members about how clean his chain was. He said it was because he does not oil it. The...
www.advrider.com www.advrider.com
Click to expand...
The forum link you provided is as diverse on the subject as we are.....

There is still a metal on metal contact between the rollers and sprocket teeth that in my opinion needs to be lubed.

Being a retired guy, I have lots of time to spend a few minutes cleaning and lubing my chain as I do find it makes a difference.
 
Bumblebee said:
The forum link you provided is as diverse on the subject as we are.....

There is still a metal on metal contact between the rollers and sprocket teeth that in my opinion needs to be lubed.

Being a retired guy, I have lots of time to spend a few minutes cleaning and lubing my chain as I do find it makes a difference.
Click to expand...
Trust me, training and racing 20 hours a week on a bicycle for most of my young life and around 8 hours a week these days, I have spent hours and hours cleaning and lubing chains. I can probably teach the guy in the video below an extra class. I have also spent a fortune on casettes and chains.

But nothing on my dirt bike or my Busa.

If you are using a wax, you should probably get more miles on your chain than I do, eventually. Using wax on a non-oring chain reduces it's life by almost 30% trust me, been there done that a few times. The wax simply removes everything off the chain, which in my opinion is exactly what you want on an O-Ring Chain. There is limited movement between roller, bushing and sprocket, the pins and busings is where the lube is really needed, and that is taken care of by an O-Ring Chain.

At the end of the day, the best choice remains the one you prefer and believe in.

The video below is not motorcycle related, but very informative regarding how a chain works and should be maintained.

 
Last edited:
jellyrug said:
Trust me, training and racing 20 hours a week on a bicycle for most of my young life and around 8 hours a week these days, I have spent hours and hours cleaning and lubing chains. I can probably teach the guy in the video below an extra class. I have also spent a fortune on casettes and chains.

But nothing on my dirt bike or my Busa.

If you are using a wax, you should probably get more miles on your chain than I do, eventually. Using wax on a non-oring chain reduces it's life by almost 30% trust me, been there done that a few times. The wax simply removes everything off the chain, which in my opinion is exactly what you want on an O-Ring Chain. There is limited movement between roller, bushing and sprocket, the pins and busings is where the lube is really needed, and that is taken care of by an O-Ring Chain.

At the end of the day, the best choice remains the one you prefer and believe in.

The video below is not motorcycle related, but very informative regarding how a chain works and should be maintained.

Click to expand...
Bicycle chains in my opinion are very different animals than a motorcycle chain and really not comparable.....

Also there is a vast difference between what a dirt bike chain endures compared to a street bike chain.

I use kerosene and chain wax on mine but I use it sparingly, a can will last me a very long time.
 
Berlin Germany said:
guys ´n girls ?

have you ever really thought about why you oil/grease a drive chain and therefore maintain it?
it is really easy .
drive with a dry chain for about 50-100 km at legal speed.

then stop and try to touch the chain with your “NAKED” finger.

in my experience, anyone who tries this will burn his fingertip(s).

1. why? and 2. what happens?

to 1. - simply considerable friction of the rollers on the front and rear sprocket due to the lack of oil that reduces the friction.
to 2. - the 0 - or x - rings become damn hot, melt get that way thinner and can leak out EVEN more easily.

a deadly process for a chain!

the sole purpose of oiling the chain is to reduce the friction between the rollers and the 2 sprockets, which means that the chain does not get nearly as hot, the rubber seals remain in place (longer) and the grease cannot escape from the rollers as quickly.

success - the chain lasts a lot longer.

example - my brother really took it to the extreme with his Haya from '01.

bought with 1800 km on the clock, Scottoiler installed immediately, sprocket changed 3 times (every around 30,000 km) and then the entire chain set was only changed after 106,000 km.

oh yes - he's definitely not a corner parker or a flower picker/mushroom picker and on OUR highways here are completely unlimited routes.

price comparison/calculation
scottoiler round 140 €
front sprocket 14 €/piece (30-45 minutes)
chain set complete approx. 210 € (approx. 120 minutes)
scott-oil consumption approx. 0.05-0,08 l / 1200 km (15€/half liter)
____________________________________________________

there is one more important thing.

my (legal) brother never played around with the Scotty - regardless of whether the road was dry or in the heaviest driving rain.

the primarily cooling effect of the lubrication through the oil is comparable 1:1 to the sometimes heavy amount of rain that is washed onto the chain.

and it's no different for me ! with the Scotty - regardless of whether it's the Haya or the FJ1200.

and if I think about it in the next few days, I will take a photo of the (30-40000 km old) chain, which has never been cleaned, and post it here.
____________________________________________________

so "collect" (mentally) all the time you waste by cleaning and respraying the chain and spend this time replacing the fork oil (every 25,000 km / 3 years)
and
cleaning/re-greasing the bearings in the deflection block of the shock absorber.

THESE two jobs are tens of times more useful than your so-called chain maintenance.

doctors thesis - end!
Click to expand...
Also the constant flow of oil keeps the chain really clean
Only negative is you may get a small amount of oil on the floor where you park(but I mean small).
You can now get electric operated Scott oilers where you can adjust flow rate from your handlebar
 
dave s said:
Also the constant flow of oil keeps the chain really clean
Only negative is you may get a small amount of oil on the floor where you park(but I mean small).
You can now get electric operated Scott oilers where you can adjust flow rate from your handlebar
Click to expand...
For the guy from Germany:

If that works for you, great. I think the roads in Germany are probably a bit cleaner than over here.

I have installed lots of automatic chain lubrication systems on Hydrostatic Cookers, a piece of $25 million equipment, but pleased to be retired at this point. If I can remember, a chain replacement was North of $1 million. Actually did one for Erasco, Lubeck, North Germany, your country. It was always a bear to get folks to maintain those auto chain lube systems properly and understand the electronics.
 
Last edited:
dave s said:
Also the constant flow of oil keeps the chain really clean
Only negative is you may get a small amount of oil on the floor where you park(but I mean small).
You can now get electric operated Scott oilers where you can adjust flow rate from your handlebar
Click to expand...

hi dave,
if the chain oil drops (somewhere) from the bike,
turn the value a lil bit down at the oiler . ;-)
till the dropping stops (over a longer way) and the rollers of the chain still stay gray to dark grey.
 
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