What is the consensus on velocity stacks for the Gen 3?

[Flows]

Looks like PPC are about to do a full back to back on various Gen 3 stacks. They also tried just chopping down the factory stacks and got positive results.

 

[Dnyce]

That looks badass, but really it’s confusing until u realize it’s another velocity stack under that sliding mechanism.

Be more interested to hear the motor at a steady throttle and then start moving the upper stacks around. Still looks cool tho.

 

[sixpack577]

That looks badass, but really it’s confusing until u realize it’s another velocity stack under that sliding mechanism.

Be more interested to hear the motor at a steady throttle and then start moving the upper stacks around. Still looks cool tho.

I wonder what data they are using to adjust the length by in real time?

 

[Dnyce]

Maybe some fancy equation algorithm that factors in rpm, map pressure, tps, air speed and load.

Or just simple rpm switch

 

[FALCON22]

Have a set of New, Gen3 23' CARBIN SMITH for sale on ebay...Zukilover... or pm me...$320.00. Sold the bike before I could get it tuned...removed...

 

[dcnblues]

...they all make small hp gains, and most move that power to the top end...

Bingo. With the high gearing on these bikes, you only need the top end boost if you are moving at serious speeds. For sure a majority of Busa owners want maximum drag / straight line performance at speeds north of 100, but for the owners who use the bike as daily riders, sport tourers, or enjoy the twisties, IMHO keeping the power band to the left is preferable and what I call 'sooner power.' The torque curve down low on my gen 1, after I put the aftermarket exhaust on, really benefited from adding the Power Commander and getting the right fuel map input. And the Gen 3 engine internals have all been tweaked for that to comply with the Euro auto emissions, so tuning the engine to get 5 or 10 more HP above the stock redline is pushing it kind of out of its sweet spot comfort zone, AND making you wait an extra second after you wrap your wrist for the thrust it would otherwise to give you earlier (unless you are launching with the clutch pulled and mid RPMs of course...).

I have zero problem with the guys wanting max numbers on their Dyno printout, but if you are a rider who will get most of your smiles below 120 mph, my recommendation is to keep the power curve higher on the left side of the dyno chart. I don't want to diminish that torque thrust of a nuclear sub feeling, at all (and think I got lucky with the Yosh AT2, which does not flow as easily as the Brock's exhaust, and seems like a perfect match for the stock stacks and a stronger torque curve down low [sure is loud though]). Just my two cents...