What oil and oil filter you use on your Gen3 and why?

[Cruising180]

Actual Laboratory Testing of your screen VS paper filters

ANOTHER test with just the filter media itself

Keep believing the hype boys and girls, there is a reason paper filters have been the standard for almost 80 years on ICE engines.

Cameron

Because they're cheap to mass produce and they know you have to keep buying them every three months or 3,000 miles. It's like with the pharmaceutical companies. There's no money in the cure. It's all in the treatment. I'm not arguing for or against one or the other but this logic is tragically flawed.

 

[Duro5341]

Because they're cheap to mass produce and they know you have to keep buying them every three months or 3,000 miles. It's like with the pharmaceutical companies. There's no money in the cure. It's all in the treatment. I'm not arguing for or against one or the other but this logic is tragically flawed.

Take a look at both videos.................The paper filter shines above the screen every time.

In this case the cheaper standard is better than the hyped new and improved version of the wheel.

Duro

 

[Bumblebee]

As in all things on this forum....oil and filter choices rank up there with tires, brake pads, air filters, exhausts, mirrors, chains, sprockets seat choices...etc, etc.....

If we ask 20 people on this thread about any one of these we will get 25 different responses....

@Dustin02 summed it up for us.....

 

[sixpack577]

Actual Laboratory Testing of your screen VS paper filters

ANOTHER test with just the filter media itself

Keep believing the hype boys and girls, there is a reason paper filters have been the standard for almost 80 years on ICE engines.
Yes there are good and bad paper spin on filters, stick with a reputable brand that's been tested outside their factory and you'll be fine.

Look through the flash marketing, and see the honest truth to select what you need, rather than what marketing makes you think you need.
On the street your NOT riding a race bike, and your NOT Rossi either.

Just my 2 cents, I've been working on engines for over 25 years and 22 of them professionally 40+hrs a week.
Cameron

Interesting tests, I like Fortnine anyway.
The higher flow of steel I expected, but less filtration was suprising with the magnet, but maybe the contaminates were non magnetic, like clutch fibers?
As for the V8 testing, the engine got the paper filter first, which had better filtration, but it also got the 5 grams of iron powder in that oil, then 5 more with the steel filter.
Even though that video didn't show bearing condition after, it makes me think that the first 5 grams of iron powder in the oil would've contributed to at least some of the suspected bearing wear, and the next 5 grams with less filtration obviously more.
I had also wondered about the smaller size of the metal filter, given that it is a cartridge, and if that contributed any to less filtering(even though it is irrelavent as the size cannot be increased), but, with a higher flow rating, I would *assume* not.
I did like that in a racing application the flow is higher with steel, and actual filtering is less important, as the oil will be changed in short intervals.
I would also *assume* this to be the reason for the use of steel filters in aviation, as maintenance is done regulary, vs a street/daily driver vehicle.
Good information with pros and cons.
I like to use oem filters over other brands, but as said, interesting vs steel.
Thankyou for posting this.

 

[sixpack577]

As in all things on this forum....oil and filter choices rank up there with tires, brake pads, air filters, exhausts, mirrors, chains, sprockets seat choices...etc, etc.....

If we ask 20 people on this thread about any one of these we will get 25 different responses....

@Dustin02 summed it up for us.....

Well...Black IS The Fastest color, and the best in general.
Period...and I'm Not wrong!
It is actually the absence of color, therefor it slips through the wind quicker...it's physics and not up for debate!

lmao

 

[Duro5341]

As in all things on this forum....oil and filter choices rank up there with tires, brake pads, air filters, exhausts, mirrors, chains, sprockets seat choices...etc, etc.....

If we ask 20 people on this thread about any one of these we will get 25 different responses....

This is why I refuse to go down the filter and oil brands and viscosity worm hole on most forums.......................................It's so deep you will spend months and months if not years educating yourself on filters and oils, base oils, additives, viscosity, brands, etc, etc, etc. - Ask me how I know.

Stay away from BITOG forums, that's the start of the worm hole.

As I have said before, and will always tell people pick the best filter and brand of oil that meets manufactures specifications that your budget can afford. At the end of the day, changing oil/filters early is cheap insurance against major repairs.

Everyone has their own opinions, including me...............I don't want to denounce people's opinion unless they are giving false information, and selling snake oil and telling us they have re-invented the wheel per say.

I have found that everything mechanical in this world is a pay now or lay later scenario, with snake oil black holes dotting the route at every corner.
Everyone seems to know of a "mechanic is a can" that will work, but in the end they are all bandaids.

Maintaining and over maintaining a machine is ALWAYS cheaper than fixing them when they break, not to mention YOU get to choose when the machine is down getting maintained. If you wait for it to break, I can guarantee it will be at the most inconvenient time for you EVERY TIME.

At the end of the day, to each their own..............................you fix yours, I'll fix mine.
Don't come crying to me when you ignored my advice and have to pay the price - I learned and have paid the price many times for my stupidity
Don't fault me for trying to save you from paying the price, nor will I entertain your belly aching when you asked me, then ignored me.

Cameron

 

[Cruising180]

Well...Black IS The Fastest color, and the best in general.
Period...and I'm Not wrong!
It is actually the absence of color, therefor it slips through the wind quicker...it's physics and not up for debate!

Well actually.........lol. Black is the combination of all colors therefore is heavier. White is the absence of color. Don't worry though, my gray bike is only a SHADE faster than yours.

 

[sixpack577]

Well actually.........lol. Black is the combination of all colors therefore is heavier. White is the absence of color. Don't worry though, my gray bike is only a SHADE faster than yours.

...gray is always my second choice, but will do when black is not available
lol

 

[WuzzaCBXRider]

White is right…

 

[BigBSBusa]

 

[WuzzaCBXRider]

This is why I refuse to go down the filter and oil brands and viscosity worm hole on most forums.......................................It's so deep you will spend months and months if not years educating yourself on filters and oils, base oils, additives, viscosity, brands, etc, etc, etc. - Ask me how I know.

Stay away from BITOG forums, that's the start of the worm hole.

As I have said before, and will always tell people pick the best filter and brand of oil that meets manufactures specifications that your budget can afford. At the end of the day, changing oil/filters early is cheap insurance against major repairs.

Everyone has their own opinions, including me...............I don't want to denounce people's opinion unless they are giving false information, and selling snake oil and telling us they have re-invented the wheel per say.

I have found that everything mechanical in this world is a pay now or lay later scenario, with snake oil black holes dotting the route at every corner.
Everyone seems to know of a "mechanic is a can" that will work, but in the end they are all bandaids.

Maintaining and over maintaining a machine is ALWAYS cheaper than fixing them when they break, not to mention YOU get to choose when the machine is down getting maintained. If you wait for it to break, I can guarantee it will be at the most inconvenient time for you EVERY TIME.

At the end of the day, to each their own..............................you fix yours, I'll fix mine.
Don't come crying to me when you ignored my advice and have to pay the price - I learned and have paid the price many times for my stupidity
Don't fault me for trying to save you from paying the price, nor will I entertain your belly aching when you asked me, then ignored me.

Cameron

Don’t come cryin to you eh? Has anyone ever? You’re not gwine to entertain one’s belly achin either? What’s a BITOG forum? Your “per say” is actually per se. For the record my 06 has over 83,000 Smiles so far and the Amsoil is changed every 5,000 miles using an OEM or K&N filter. At oil change time I’m maybe a third of a quart low. I won’t fault you as you said, ‘to each their own’.

 

[Bumblebee]

Don’t come cryin to you eh? Has anyone ever? You’re not gwine to entertain one’s belly achin either? What’s a BITOG forum? Your “per say” is actually per se. For the record my 06 has over 83,000 Smiles so far and the Amsoil is changed every 5,000 miles using an OEM or K&N filter. At oil change time I’m maybe a third of a quart low. I won’t fault you as you said, ‘to each their own’.

My brother who has 2 BMW RTs...a '78 and a '96 always uses dino oil and changes the oil after checking it, he doesn't go by a set distance or time but by an old school method of checking oil....

The '78 has over 700,000 miles on it and has never been apart and the '96 has over 250,000 miles on it and also has never had the engine apart although he put a few new bearings in the transmission and final drive....

I also use Amsoil (or Royal Purple if it's on sale) and change the filter each time I change the oil.

I'd imagine people who live in hotter or dirtier climates would be changing oil far more frequently than I do.

 

[Cruising180]

My brother who has 2 BMW RTs...a '78 and a '96 always uses dino oil and changes the oil after checking it, he doesn't go by a set distance or time but by an old school method of checking oil....

The '78 has over 700,000 miles on it and has never been apart and the '96 has over 250,000 miles on it and also has never had the engine apart although he put a few new bearings in the transmission and final drive....

I also use Amsoil (or Royal Purple if it's on sale) and change the filter each time I change the oil.

I'd imagine people who live in hotter or dirtier climates would be changing oil far more frequently than I do.

I do my bike and car every months or 3,000 miles and have followed that schedule since 1996. I've never had a wear problem in anything I've owned. My cars, once I hit 75,000 get Mobil 1 high mileage and my current car, 2018 Focus ST I bought brand new now has 110,000 miles with zero oil leaks. I use factory filters. An FL400S which bumps the cars capacity up to 6 quarts and the factory filter for whatever bike I have. Always full synthetic after the break-in. Hasn't let me down in 30 years. Bike oils have been Repsol and for the last 10 years or so everything gets the HP4 Yamalube full synthetic.

 

[Duro5341]

Don’t come cryin to you eh? Has anyone ever? You’re not gwine to entertain one’s belly achin either? What’s a BITOG forum? Your “per say” is actually per se. For the record my 06 has over 83,000 Smiles so far and the Amsoil is changed every 5,000 miles using an OEM or K&N filter. At oil change time I’m maybe a third of a quart low. I won’t fault you as you said, ‘to each their own’.

Bob Is The Oil Guy - Forum

Please educate yourself, and go down the rabbit hole if you so please......................You'll learn a lot

I have customers call me every day complaining their cars are broken, rotten and falling apart.

Many if not all of them are long time customers and were told when they first bought them
-Use synthetic oils, replace every 5000km
-Replace drive line, power steering and brake fluids regularly (every 2-3 years)
-Krown rust proof to prevent rust/rot here in the rust belt
-Service their brakes every 12 months at a minimum.

In yet only approx 10% of my customers followed the advice, and all have cars with well over 400,000km and running like tops.................while the rest neglect their cars, look for easy quick fixes, and always complain the repairs cost to much. Pay NOW, or pay MORE later is my motto.

All my personal and company cars reach well into the 500K mark with Engine and Trans unopened for repairs, and bikes regularly over 100k without issue at all.

Cars are always synthetic oils, and Premium filters, and motorcycles are 10w40 Amsoil and Clarcor filters.

Cameron

 

[Bumblebee]

Bob Is The Oil Guy - Forum

Please educate yourself, and go down the rabbit hole if you so please......................You'll learn a lot

I have customers call me every day complaining their cars are broken, rotten and falling apart.

Many if not all of them are long time customers and were told when they first bought them
-Use synthetic oils, replace every 5000km
-Replace drive line, power steering and brake fluids regularly (every 2-3 years)
-Krown rust proof to prevent rust/rot here in the rust belt
-Service their brakes every 12 months at a minimum.

In yet only approx 10% of my customers followed the advice, and all have cars with well over 400,000km and running like tops.................while the rest neglect their cars, look for easy quick fixes, and always complain the repairs cost to much. Pay NOW, or pay MORE later is my motto.

All my personal and company cars reach well into the 500K mark with Engine and Trans unopened for repairs, and bikes regularly over 100k without issue at all.

Cars are always synthetic oils, and Premium filters, and motorcycles are 10w40 Amsoil and Clarcor filters.

Cameron

The great thing about this forum is it is chocked full of people who have differing experiences, we have motorcycle mechanics, heavy mechanics, auto mechanics, drag racers, road racers, land speed record holders.....we have all kinds of knowledgeable people here...

We have many people here who have logged hundreds of thousands of miles on bikes......one we lost who had well over 200,000 miles on his Hayabusa....rest his soul......

This is one of the reasons why this forum has survived where many have not......

 

[Bumblebee]

Actual Laboratory Testing of your screen VS paper filters

ANOTHER test with just the filter media itself

Keep believing the hype boys and girls, there is a reason paper filters have been the standard for almost 80 years on ICE engines.
Yes there are good and bad paper spin on filters, stick with a reputable brand that's been tested outside their factory and you'll be fine.

Look through the flash marketing, and see the honest truth to select what you need, rather than what marketing makes you think you need.
On the street your NOT riding a race bike, and your NOT Rossi either.

Just my 2 cents, I've been working on engines for over 25 years and 22 of them professionally 40+hrs a week.
Cameron

May I ask what sorts of engines?

It's always handy to have another tech on the site in case someone needs help....

 

[jellyrug]

This is what I do and did, when it comes to the headline of this post.

I stick with OEM filters.

I had my oil analysed, until I got what I wanted. ENI (old MotoGp sponsor) and Mobil 1 did not cut it. Their additive package as far as viscosity modifier was too cheap. I ended up with something else which maintains viscosity for 5,000 miles and retains a good TBN at those miles.

 

[Duro5341]

May I ask what sorts of engines?

It's always handy to have another tech on the site in case someone needs help....

I've been in the automotive repair industry for decades, currently selling parts too for years.............But am certified 310s technician specifically.
I've owned/worked on everything from 60's carb'd vehicles up to current modern fuel injection, GDI, hybrid engines and a few EV's.

Didn't get into much diesel stuff though, which I regret to this day.

Have also taken years of night classes through community college for small engine, motorcycle, and boat engine, in/out board repair and welding as I refuse to pay someone to fix my stuff, when I can learn and fix it myself.

What do you fix?

Cameron

 

[Bumblebee]

I've been in the automotive repair industry for decades, currently selling parts too for years.............But am certified 310s technician specifically.
I've owned/worked on everything from 60's carb'd vehicles up to current modern fuel injection, GDI, hybrid engines and a few EV's.

Didn't get into much diesel stuff though, which I regret to this day.

Have also taken years of night classes through community college for small engine, motorcycle, and boat engine, in/out board repair and welding as I refuse to pay someone to fix my stuff, when I can learn and fix it myself.

What do you fix?

Cameron

I grew up on a farm so learned to fix anything and everything...then 33 yrs in the military helped me hone some of those skills-by having to improvise getting things working from time to time....

I've been riding motorcycles since I was knee high to a cricket's leg and have been wrenching on them and other small engines ever since, I'm pretty handy with a wrench and can basically fix anything if given enough time.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Good to know we have another tech in yourself for those times when someone needs a hand......

 

[Sinister#4]

IMHO we always used metal screen type filters on all the drag motors we built, from blown alky to superstock stuff, and we changed to oil every race and it was super nice to check the filter all the time. On circle track stuff we always used the fram size HP6a ,wix 5122R or KN 5001 they were all 15 or 20 micron and insane flow rates. I think you can get 30 micron metal element filters, but in the drag stuff we ran the 50-75 micron stuff with no issues ever related to the filter.... And if you figure umm 25 microns to .001 inch, with .002 bearing clearance IMHO for normal street use I want 10-20 micron filtration