what should i do

dizzle

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whats up every one? I was out riding with to buddys that ride gsxr 1000. we did some racing from holeshots to freeway. the 1000 were beating me all around not by much.cant have this. we all have youshi rs3 they have power comanders.I dont.what should i do. I have a dry nitrous kit from last bike.not real sure if want to spray it though.thanks
 
43 rear or 16/42 will put you right with him but you need to shift it and not hit the rev limiter or he'll pull away.
 
what should i shift at?I want to pull away.
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Well, like me you could go on a diet and lose 20 lbs. PCIII and a good map will help but not much with slip-ons. PCIII with full exhaust... hmmm... getting there. Sprocket resize (as suggested) best bang for the buck. Unless you have a need to exceed 180. What's your budget? That will tell you what to do. GL.
 
$2000
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Oh hell.. you have quite a few options to make some power...

Muzzy exhaust $650 ? sell the slip ons to offset the cost. They look and sound nice, but do nothing for performance.
PCIII $300
Intake cam on exhaust or set of Cams $500 ?
Air Filter $60
Air box mod - FREE
Pair Valve Block off plates - $25

Install exhaust yourself and do as much labor as possible yourself. Take it to a GOOD tuner after wrenching on the parts.
DYNO TUNE WHEN DONE $300

This should give you at least 170 HP (depends on dyno) but you will walk him regardless.

Remember to shift BEFORE you get to redline... shift at 10 -10.3 K before the HP starts to taper back off.
 
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Keep in mind there is ALWAYS something a wee bit faster out there... and some have nice shiny blue lights that go wee wee wee as your going just a wee wee wee too fast.

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Gears, exhaust, pcIII and try again. You'll find by honing your shifting and launching you'll win every time.
 
thanks for all the help guys. sorry to say I have to wait for a while. My a$$ hole boss and i got in a fight and fired me...
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(SpeedGeek @ Jul. 29 2007,11:52) $2000
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 Oh hell.. you have quite a few options to make some power...

Muzzy exhaust $650 ? sell the slip ons to offset the cost.  They look and sound nice, but do nothing for performance.
PCIII $300
Intake cam on exhaust or set of Cams $500 ?
Air Filter $60
Air box mod - FREE
Pair Valve Block off plates - $25

Install exhaust yourself and do as much labor as possible yourself.  Take it to a GOOD tuner after wrenching on the parts.
DYNO TUNE WHEN DONE $300

This should give you at least 170 HP (depends on dyno) but you will walk him regardless.

Remember to shift BEFORE you get to redline...  shift at 10 -10.3 K before the HP starts to taper back off.
Why is everyone under the impression that slip-ons do not help performance. Lets compare shall we, and remember, this is just Akro slip-ons, small airbox mod, PCIII-USB, marble mod, TRE, and a good dyno-tune. 1000's rarely get away from me with stock gearing, but I also never hesitate to drop the hammer. If I even get a feeling that my buddies (most ride 1ks) are going to try to pull away, I lock the throttle to the stops!
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(Cblast @ Aug. 01 2007,13:52)
(SpeedGeek @ Jul. 29 2007,11:52) $2000
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 Oh hell.. you have quite a few options to make some power...

Muzzy exhaust $650 ? sell the slip ons to offset the cost.  They look and sound nice, but do nothing for performance.
PCIII $300
Intake cam on exhaust or set of Cams $500 ?
Air Filter $60
Air box mod - FREE
Pair Valve Block off plates - $25

Install exhaust yourself and do as much labor as possible yourself.  Take it to a GOOD tuner after wrenching on the parts.
DYNO TUNE WHEN DONE $300

This should give you at least 170 HP (depends on dyno) but you will walk him regardless.

Remember to shift BEFORE you get to redline...  shift at 10 -10.3 K before the HP starts to taper back off.
Why is everyone under the impression that slip-ons do not help performance.  Lets compare shall we, and remember, this is just Akro slip-ons, small airbox mod, PCIII-USB, marble mod, TRE, and a good dyno-tune.  1000's rarely get away from me with stock gearing, but I also never hesitate to drop the hammer.  If I even get a feeling that my buddies (most ride 1ks) are going to try to pull away, I lock the throttle to the stops!  
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While I am no expert, here is my take on your particular gains:

You can make SEVERAL pulls on a dyno and just about every one will be differnt. A tuner "can" simply choose one of the lower "before tuning" pulls" and compare it to one of the higher "after tuning" pulls to show the most difference before and after. Unless you are there watching every pull, you can't really be assured that there wasn't some "fudging" like this going on. Motors will have a lower pull the first couple times through, and then on the 3rd or fourth pull they show the best numbers (this is what I've seen and heard anyways)

Also notice the change in Humidity between the 2 pulls? Humidity DOES affect the amount of power an engine makes. I find it perplexing that the humidity changed by 10% in only 13 minutes
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Also, MOST IMPORTANTLY: The bike was running richer ALL the way across the RPM range on the initial pull. Your biggest gains are from leaning the A/F across the range and the addition of the Air filter and air box mod.

However, in contrast... simply changing to slip ons does NOTHING for exhaust gases being able to get out of the engine and allowing it to breathe better. The header and crossover are where the restriction in the exhaust come in play... it has nothing to (or VERY little) to do with the cans. By the time the exhaust reaches the cans, the velocity and volume have been restricted from the header and mid pipe. Have you ever LOOKED at the crossover mid pipe under the bike? You could BARELY get a golf ball through that crossover (if at all!)

Granted, you picked up nice gains, but DON'T let yourself believe the slip ons had ANYTHING to do with it.

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Forget the gain, 162.65 sae RWHP.  Most full systems are in that same ballpark, and only very few make more.  When you use tuning link to run the dyno a lot of the fudge factor is taken out and the heat and humidity rise when you run a motorcycle in an enclosed space.  Tuning links interface with the dynojet software does not allow the tuner to fudge or change things like the ambient humidity reading to tweak the numbers.  There are various schools of thought on this such as the increased heat offsets the increase in humidity.  Colder air = more oxygen (denser), higher humidity can also positively affect air density as far as oxygen is concerned.  Whatever the case may be the bottom line is the max hp with a feul air ratio of about 13:1.  162.65 sae.  Now if serious weight savings were the major concern, then a full 4 into 1 would be obviously the choice.  But if serious weight savings were the concern I would go on a diet and buy a GSXR 1K.  Busa = Torque and Power baby  
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Also, SpeedGeek, our bikes look as though they have very similiar performance mods to the bike except you are using the Akra Race full system and a BMC filter. What max RWHP has your bike pushed? Just curious to see the gains made by that system and filter.
 
168.7 RWHP and 99.97 torque.  But I'm making over 160 HP from 8K on up and it just flattens off at mid 160's all the way to redline.

Also... its not so much my PEAK power.. but it now makes ALOT more everywhere.

Stock - mine made 152.2 before mods.
 
Mine made pretty close to yours with same mods and Muzzy full system. Wish I had gone with the Brock/Hindle system. My tuner said he sees high 160's with the standard and low 170's with the sidewinder (on the same dyno that did my bike).

Beating a Gixxer thou is tough - and it gets tougher every year. The 07's are rockets from what I'm hearing.

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