Yes, another gearing debate!

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Stevo80

Registered
So we have all talked about this a million times. First off this is strictly for 1/8 mile discussion, and for mostly stock bikes. What is the deepest gearing you have ran that has netted positive results ie. lower ET's? Reason I ask is that I'm about to try -2 and +3 on my gen 2 (yes it's stretched). The gearing I have now is -1 and +3 and has given me my best ET's. Higher gearing has negative results. I'm wondering if I will see any positive results, and if so at what point will it stop being positive? Anyone ran any ridiculous gearing before? I will post results once I run the bike with the new gearing too. Before you flame me and throw pitchforks at me, I really don't drive the bike much, so I don't care about street characteristics. :laugh::poke:
 
I can't believe that NO ONE threw in their 2 cents! Very unlike this group! :D
Anyway the deep gearing got me drown the track much better. Of course it 12 o clocked me a couple of times too. I gained .1 and that my friends is fantastic to me.
Just thought I would share.
 
Well, I haven't been on an 1/8 mile track since 1979 and that was on a KZ 650. So I didn't reply. Maybe someone will see it and post up for you, even though you've went low and been down the track. Glad the bike didn't come back over on you.
 
dadofthree said:
Well, I haven't been on an 1/8 mile track since 1979 and that was on a KZ 650. So I didn't reply. Maybe someone will see it and post up for you, even though you've went low and been down the track. Glad the bike didn't come back over on you.
Click to expand...

Understandable. Thanks. If you were on FB I would show u a couple of 100 ft wheelies! :D
 
i was swb w/ 16/45, a shinko and ran mine past 12 almost right off the line. i had ran my quickest pass but was really gonna hammer it that time. i jumped off the back of the bike but was tall enough to hang onto the bars and not twist the throttle any further and ran the bike down...didn't drop it. I think Jesus was running along the other side of the bike with me, hahaha...
 
A local guy ran a -2 +3 on his 04 Zx10 and seemed to like it pretty well in the 1/8th. Hows that for almost helpful info :laugh:
 
Hahahah good stories guys! It's just funny how everyone has an opinion and when u ask for it you don't get any! Go figure. For what it's worth I'm very happy with the new gearing. I might even try to go lower after some other changes. ;)
 
If it helped you who cares.That is what matters.It helped you.Good time you ran.good sixty an time cannot beat that.An did not cost much to get a tenth!
 
While gearing down multiplies torque to the wheel, getting it to hook in a efficient manner is the key to making the launch quicker. Once underway the gearing doesn't really do all that much to make the bike accelerate any faster. If you go to the procrastination racing page ( HP & weight 1/4 calculator there ) you can see how torque and hp determines 1/4 mile ETs. One thing shorter gearing does is it puts the ratios closer together so the motor is able to do more work in less time. However, the effect is minimal. I know you can take two 400 hp Corvettes, 1 with 3.45 gears and the other with 4.10 gears and everything else being equal... you see no difference in acceleration once both cars have hooked up even though the torque factor is 19% higher with the 4.10 gears.

On this link I just entered 140 mph trap speed with 700 lbs as weight of bike and rider. It showed me 178 hp.

http://www.angelfire.com/fl/procrastination/quarter.html
 
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ZRXMAX said:
While gearing down multiplies torque to the wheel, getting it to hook in a efficient manner is the key to making the launch quicker. Once underway the gearing doesn't really do all that much to make the bike accelerate any faster. If you go to the procrastination racing page ( HP & weight 1/4 calculator there ) you can see how torque and hp determines 1/4 mile ETs. One thing shorter gearing does is it puts the ratios closer together so the motor is able to do more work in less time. However, the effect is minimal. I know you can take two 400 hp Corvettes, 1 with 3.45 gears and the other with 4.10 gears and everything else being equal... you see no difference in acceleration once both cars have hooked up even though the torque factor is 19% higher with the 4.10 gears.

On this link I just entered 140 mph trap speed with 700 lbs as weight of bike and rider. It showed me 178 hp.

MOTOR - A Quarter Mile Horsepower Calculator
Click to expand...

While the above link may give u a number, I can tell you it isn't close to being right for me. Trap speed of 150 and 720lbs, says like 215 HP, I WISH!! :D You are correct though about how the gearing is keeping the bike in the "peak" power better. So as per my original question where would it start being a negative impact in ET? Is it right before the bike flips over backwards or....? :D
 
Its a Vortex AL. I would prefer a steel but they dont offer one that big (that ive been able to find) looks like you can get one up to 66 from their website.
 
icemansid said:
Its a Vortex AL. I would prefer a steel but they dont offer one that big (that ive been able to find) looks like you can get one up to 66 from their website.
Click to expand...

I got ya. I always try to stick to steel, but some guys say the cat 5 stuff or whatever it is holds up good. I may try some. Thanks for the info!
 
Stevo80 said:
While the above link may give u a number, I can tell you it isn't close to being right for me. Trap speed of 150 and 720lbs, says like 215 HP, I WISH!! :D You are correct though about how the gearing is keeping the bike in the "peak" power better. So as per my original question where would it start being a negative impact in ET? Is it right before the bike flips over backwards or....? :D
Click to expand...

Torque is really the magic to making everything happen though HP does play a role in ET. Its the high level of torque under the HP curve as seen on the dyno that makes gearing critical... or not. The wider and flatter the torque band the less critical the gearing becomes. Imagine you Busa making 100 lbs of torque at 2000 rpm and increasing from that point to the upper range of rpm. Tall gearing would be your friend with less time spent shifting gears because you could pull a taller gear ratio competively speaking. Yes, you would want a wheelie bar under that scenario! I believe gearing isn't as critical with turbo bikes because they have the potential to make more power lower in the rpm range. I am no expert on all of this... just my opinion based on what I have seen.

Question for you guys about drag racing wheelies. Once underway and the front end is starting to lift does a quick snap off the throttle ( not completely off ) for the shortest time humanly possible make the wheelie situation come under control?

More questions. Does a wheelie actually slow the bike down in drag race mode ? I have heard that it does though the effect is minimal. Is it true that the energy to lift the bike does not make it go quicker because the energy that lifted the bike is not returned in the et ?

I guess a wheelie indicates traction is sufficient for the moment. :laugh:
 
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