Electric Rostra Cruise Control

twotonevert

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Rostra All Electric Cruise by Twotonevert

Ok guys, Since Sous posted up the excellent write up on the Gen II Vacuum install, I am going to show you the differences in between the vacuum and the electric models. Here is his write up. https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gen-ii-busa-information/147948-true-cruise-control-gen-ii-style.html The model I have is the Universal 250-1223.

Make a bracket to mount the head unit to, and I installed mine in the same place he did, left clip on just below the clutch fluid resevior. Completely remove the tail section, tank, windscreen, and gauge cluster. Its a good idea to put a towel over the throttle bodies, you dont want to drop something in there. Also, all connections were soldered, not crimped.

Steve made a bracket to mount to the throttle linkage. Just remove the nut and install the bracket so it hangs down, you will mount the chain to it from the cable that comes from the cruise unit itself.

After we mounted the control unit, sorry we dont have pics, but run the power supply wire to one of the marker lights in the head light. Works great. Also, you will need to run the signal wire to the #1 cylinder, far right side of the bike.

I had already completed the Gen II trunk mod before we did the install. Here is the trunk mod. https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gen-ii-busa-information/131810-gen-2-trunk-mod.html Since I did this, I had plenty of room to mount the new cruise unit. Unlike the vacuum model, it will not fit in the turn signal pods, you have to have room for this unit because it is larger than the vacuum version.

Route the cable through the engine bay, we put a loop in mine because it is so long. You dont want to cut this. After 1500 miles it has not given me a single issue. Notice the screw in the frame, you will want to mount the cable in this location with the supplied bracket from Rostra. There is a rubber wrap that goes around the cable to keep it from slipping. This is on the left side of the engine bay. The screw is there from the factory.

The wire harness connects basically the same way as the vacuum version, run the brown wire from the unit to the brake light. This disables the cruise when you hit the brakes. White wire with black tracer, check your bike with a test light to verify.

Now the biggest difference we found is the electric model requires you connect the VSS wire to the bike. This tells the cruise how fast you are going. If you do not connect this wire, it will not know what speed to hold. Its the pink wire with the black tracer. Locate your gear shifter, follow the harness from the shifter up through the frame where it goes into the main harness. It changes colors so be sure and follow it up the frame. Again, we soldered all wiring.

After you get it all installed, have power to the head unit, and I didnt include a pic of the relay, we just laid mine right behind the battery, wire it like the vacuum version. You will need to test it and adjust the dip switch settings. There are 12 settings, and mine are as follows 1-12, O equals off, 1 equals on: 000011100100

Final Note: There are instructions that walk you through the test portion of the install. There is an LED on the cruise unit itself, with the test/diagnostic function you can see if everything is working properly. Brake, clutch, engage, disengage, power, etc. If the unit fails the test you need to re-check your install. Do not ride it until the test/diagnostic passes.

Special thanks to Captain and UncleSteve for taking the entire Saturday to install this, I could have never done it on my own. I also suggest before you re-install the tail, you should install just the seat and take it for a test to make sure it works properly. BE CAUTIOUS, when you testing this, cover the brake and the clutch in case it takes off. We didnt have any issues, but it could happen. You need to be prepared to stop it in case something does happen.

One more thing, I have not tried this yet, but DO NOT switch modes while the cruise control is engaged, this will cause the bike to jump.

This is a wonderful addition to any bike and I am very thankful I had my friends to help install this.


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Great addition to the vacuum write up. Good to hear that Rostra seems to have cleared up the gremlins this unit was causing early on.

I love my CC and use it every day.
 
Also, when you connect the cable to the bracket on the throttle bodies, make double sure this hangs with just a slight amount of slack and will not bind.
 
Great addition to the vacuum write up. Good to hear that Rostra seems to have cleared up the gremlins this unit was causing early on.

I love my CC and use it every day.

It does work great. I use mine every time I ride. :beerchug:
 
Dang it...that looks like a fantastic write up. There goes my excuse for a ride out to the mid-west!

You the man and thank you so much for the info!
 
So when are you coming up to PA to help us less mechanically inclined folks out?? :whistle:

Nice Write Up.
~Click Subscribe~:watching:
 
So when are you coming up to PA to help us less mechanically inclined folks out?? :whistle:

Nice Write Up.
~Click Subscribe~:watching:

Even with common tools around the garage, you can do this install. Based on the pictures I and Twotonevert have provided, you can piece it together easily. You will not regret it, that is for sure.
 
So what are the pros and cons of each? I'm liking the vacuum operated one better, just because the electric unit takes up so much more room and won't fit in the turn signal pod.
Aside from that they operate differently, does one function better or do something that the other can't?
I was about to get a Throttlemiester(and still may), but the cruise control still has me very interested. You old guys' laziness is admirable.:poke::laugh:
 
So what are the pros and cons of each? I'm liking the vacuum operated one better, just because the electric unit takes up so much more room and won't fit in the turn signal pod.
Aside from that they operate differently, does one function better or do something that the other can't?
I was about to get a Throttlemiester(and still may), but the cruise control still has me very interested. You old guys' laziness is admirable.:poke::laugh:

They are both identical, except that one is electronically controlled and the other is vacuum. I went with the vacuum, because the electronic version was causing all sorts of electrical gremlins in Gen II bikes. If you do a search, you can find many posts about this.

The vacuum version was also discontinued a year or so ago, but has since been brought back by Murphkits.

The Throttlemiester cannot even compare or be in the same category as the cruise control. I ride 120 miles round trip a day to work and set this thing once when I get on the interstate and that is it. I maintain speed within +/- 1 MPH of it being set. You cannot get that with any throttle lock, even if you live in Iowa as there are some very gradual hills.

Now, there will be some on here that say a Throttlemiester is just as good. That is only because they have not seen the true CC in action. This is the best mod I have done to my bike, hands down. I think you will hear that from any of the others that have done it as well.
 
They are both identical, except that one is electronically controlled and the other is vacuum. I went with the vacuum, because the electronic version was causing all sorts of electrical gremlins in Gen II bikes. If you do a search, you can find many posts about this.

The vacuum version was also discontinued a year or so ago, but has since been brought back by Murphkits.

The Throttlemiester cannot even compare or be in the same category as the cruise control. I ride 120 miles round trip a day to work and set this thing once when I get on the interstate and that is it. I maintain speed within +/- 1 MPH of it being set. You cannot get that with any throttle lock, even if you live in Iowa as there are some very gradual hills.

Now, there will be some on here that say a Throttlemiester is just as good. That is only because they have not seen the true CC in action. This is the best mod I have done to my bike, hands down. I think you will hear that from any of the others that have done it as well.


Thank you sir! That was exactly what I wanted to know.:thumbsup:
 
I think between these three threads, Sous's vacuum write up, sixpacks trunk mod, and this one, you should have all the information you need. Most of us are just a phone call away if you get stuck. I think LCB has an electric model on her bike, and NinjaKiller just picked one up, not sure if its installed yet. I have had zero electrical issues since this install.
 
I also suggest before you re-install the tail, you should install just the seat and take it for a test to make sure it works properly. BE CAUTIOUS, when you testing this, cover the brake and the clutch in case it takes off.

Before you even throw a leg over the bike you can completely diagnose the system with the LED that is on the cruise servo. The instructions will walk you through making sure all the functions work. You will check the brake, clutch, engage buttons and disengage just by following the instructions in diag mode. I would definately take this step before you throw a leg over...

cap
 
Before you even throw a leg over the bike you can completely diagnose the system with the LED that is on the cruise servo. The instructions will walk you through making sure all the functions work. You will check the brake, clutch, engage buttons and disengage just by following the instructions in diag mode. I would definately take this step before you throw a leg over...

cap

Good one Cap, I forgot about that. I edited post #12 to include this step. . :beerchug:
 
Can anyone post the dimensions of the control unit that goes in the trunk? I'd like to know them before making any purchases and the dimensions may also sway how deep I make the trunk mod.

Re "...Rostra seems to have cleared up the gremlins this unit was causing early on". Sounds like the gremlins were caused by the unit itself and not the install procedure, but how will I know I end up with a gremlin free unit?

Re "...DO NOT switch modes while the cruise control is engaged, this will cause the bike to jump." Can anyone explain this a little further?

Thanks
 
If you are worried about gremlins, best to go with the vacuum controlled module. That is the reason I went with the vacuum module. For detailed instructions, check out the link in my signature.

Twotonevert seems to have had zero problems though, so it appears Rostra may have got it right this time.

As for the modes, are you talking about the A, B and C for the bike, or something on the cruise? When I pull the clutch, tap the brake, or accelerate quickly the vacuum control will disengage and return full control to the rider.
 
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