ali123
Banned
must be they had other orders
10-Year Anniversary Freshen-up
- Thread starter fallenarch
- Start date
jeffgordons24
Registered
Oh damn I would for sure be the idiot buying that toilet
ali123
Banned
thats where they manufacture the CF......… lol jk
RedBull
Registered
Carbon Fiber
sure is loved
by girls ,
for sure ! ! !
Ha ha ha ha ha . . .
Some people
buy poof bikes
off police
and think
they are fast ! ! !
Girls do not like them bum boys
who spend lots of time
hanging in jail ! ! !
Ha ha ha ha ha . . .
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jeffgordons24
Registered
Wooww see us talking sped things up!!!
So here is a status update:
What is The Goal: I decided that my goal was the ultimate back road blaster, nothing else. Still working on this premise.
General Checkup: Done. Clean bill of health. Compression good, throttle sync, new plugs, valves good, everything lubed and fresh oil. $250 in shop fees & parts.
Engine: Looked at a full Titanium Yoshi, decided to leave things alone.
Suspension: Had to service the forks and replace seals. Well it's been 4 years so that not bad. Cost $380.
Brakes: Parts in hand and stupid expensive. $2K+
Electricals: Amplink is sitting on my desk ($230). Need to start wiring diagrams soon. Some of this depends on the fairing changes I settle on because it impacts the tail and hump. Decided to wait on a quick shifter too. Or maybe not?
Wheels: I watch the hour glass as the minutes become hours, hours become days and days become weeks. $2,100.
Ergonomics: Thinking about new rearsets. But later when the credit card cools down.....
Aesthetics: Like the design I came up with, still trying to decide the best way to get there. This will blow the entire contingency I had for the project. I figured $1K but it's more like $3K. Still trying to rationalize if this is worth it or not to be honest.
What is The Goal: I decided that my goal was the ultimate back road blaster, nothing else. Still working on this premise.
General Checkup: Done. Clean bill of health. Compression good, throttle sync, new plugs, valves good, everything lubed and fresh oil. $250 in shop fees & parts.
Engine: Looked at a full Titanium Yoshi, decided to leave things alone.
Suspension: Had to service the forks and replace seals. Well it's been 4 years so that not bad. Cost $380.
Brakes: Parts in hand and stupid expensive. $2K+
Electricals: Amplink is sitting on my desk ($230). Need to start wiring diagrams soon. Some of this depends on the fairing changes I settle on because it impacts the tail and hump. Decided to wait on a quick shifter too. Or maybe not?
Wheels: I watch the hour glass as the minutes become hours, hours become days and days become weeks. $2,100.
Ergonomics: Thinking about new rearsets. But later when the credit card cools down.....
Aesthetics: Like the design I came up with, still trying to decide the best way to get there. This will blow the entire contingency I had for the project. I figured $1K but it's more like $3K. Still trying to rationalize if this is worth it or not to be honest.
There are a few driven D-axis rearsets left on eBay from sellers that have marked them down to a little over $300. I have it on my “watched” list as well as Galfer rotors, but fairings took all my money. Lol!
Was the $380 just for one seal replacement on the forks or did you decide to service and freshen up both forks?
380 was both seals, take forks apart and flush internals. New Ohlins oil and when I pick the bike up all the settings are reset.
Why not just do a china fairing kit and tank cover with a custom design?
They're what, $500?
Some actually look and fit really good.
You could then have and see what you think you want, at a fraction of the cost.
Then decide if it's worth painting your fenders the same or similiar?
Or being content with the fat girl having a cheap outfit to change into.
You could sell the china fairing kit and recoup alot of their original price too.
They're what, $500?
Some actually look and fit really good.
You could then have and see what you think you want, at a fraction of the cost.
Then decide if it's worth painting your fenders the same or similiar?
Or being content with the fat girl having a cheap outfit to change into.
You could sell the china fairing kit and recoup alot of their original price too.
You know I put off doing the quick shifter for a very long time , despite my mate pushing the virtues of this device to me . Then once I did it , I realized I had been really missing out on fantastically fast and smooth gear changes , and crazy full throttle seamless acceleration .
This is a mod that will really make that 'back road master blaster' , exactly that , put off something else if you can .
All this waiting and organizing is never as you originally plan for , but hang in their Willie , it will all come together eventually mate .
This is a mod that will really make that 'back road master blaster' , exactly that , put off something else if you can .
All this waiting and organizing is never as you originally plan for , but hang in their Willie , it will all come together eventually mate .
Tell me about your QS?You know I put off doing the quick shifter for a very long time , despite my mate pushing the virtues of this device to me . Then once I did it , I realized I had been really missing out on fantastically fast and smooth gear changes , and crazy full throttle seamless acceleration .
This is a mod that will really make that 'back road master blaster' , exactly that , put off something else if you can .
All this waiting and organizing is never as you originally plan for , but hang in their Willie , it will all come together eventually mate .
Well the designer in me has come roaring out and I have some cool ideas rattling around in my head. Just trying to let them settle down so I can make some sense of it. I had an email conversation with Ali's fairing guy and was impressed. Might ride the BMW to his shop and meet him one weekend. Sounds like he could open more possibilities. Besides, not sure I want to put $500 fairings on a bike with $2K front brakes. Good builds have a balance to them, and I didn't really plan out the fairing thing very well. Didn't want to phase this thing but it might have to happen both for money and clarity on the aesthetic direction.
PS: Remember what I have looks as good as China fairings. So I have time to think it through even if I have to button it up with the old fairings for awhile.
I know that's a little steep but when these guys work on the forks they are like a magic carpet. Not sure how they do it but the forks feel better and better each time.
I got the Cordona ,
Cordona Precision Quickshifter 8 (PQ8) Combo - Quick Lap Performance-Cordona Quickshifters,IRC Components,Alien Motion Batteries
the stand alone full setup + batwing shift light , not the other optioned program into ECU .
It just plugs into your coils and has a programmable control module .
You set the rpm for shift light and the quickness of the cut off to spark and is really pretty simple to setup and fit .
You get your rearset shift rod setup as you have run it as usual , you measure that overall length and find an aftermarket rod with a length that allows for the shift switch to be fitted up to match that overall length .
I does come with a shift rod setup for stock busa factory rearsets , if you havent got the rearsets already done .
It is fantastic , can always use clutch anywhere you want , but from 3000 rpm + with partial open to maximum open throttle , no clutch changes .
So , you can leave the lights , say 1st to 4000rpm , open throttle and click 2nd , 3rd , 4th and your bike has left smoothly and seamlessly without any fuss .
Now on your favorite fast road , entered and leaning into that corner , part open throttle reving exit out of corner to 8,000rpm no throttle change click next gear , smooth as , and gone . Adjust to any rpm and any throttle , as long as open and motor under load . Back down the gears with clutch and throttle blip to match revs .
You will love that smoothness , and if you have club foot like myself , weel this is a blessing setup !!
Cordona Precision Quickshifter 8 (PQ8) Combo - Quick Lap Performance-Cordona Quickshifters,IRC Components,Alien Motion Batteries
the stand alone full setup + batwing shift light , not the other optioned program into ECU .
It just plugs into your coils and has a programmable control module .
You set the rpm for shift light and the quickness of the cut off to spark and is really pretty simple to setup and fit .
You get your rearset shift rod setup as you have run it as usual , you measure that overall length and find an aftermarket rod with a length that allows for the shift switch to be fitted up to match that overall length .
I does come with a shift rod setup for stock busa factory rearsets , if you havent got the rearsets already done .
It is fantastic , can always use clutch anywhere you want , but from 3000 rpm + with partial open to maximum open throttle , no clutch changes .
So , you can leave the lights , say 1st to 4000rpm , open throttle and click 2nd , 3rd , 4th and your bike has left smoothly and seamlessly without any fuss .
Now on your favorite fast road , entered and leaning into that corner , part open throttle reving exit out of corner to 8,000rpm no throttle change click next gear , smooth as , and gone . Adjust to any rpm and any throttle , as long as open and motor under load . Back down the gears with clutch and throttle blip to match revs .
You will love that smoothness , and if you have club foot like myself , weel this is a blessing setup !!
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I paid AU$700 to get my FGRT208 Black set and the spare TTX36 done , full service and some machining on the fork , also by Ohlins tech , always worth the money to me , but I always remove my own stuff to save on $ unless you get a setup with rider by the lads .
Yeah, the BMW has up & down quick shift and when I get on the Busa I find myself just yanking the shifter up. Why did you pick that specific QS?
jeffgordons24
Registered
What is the amplink used for?
BTW: That's all the cost info you guys get! Every time I type the crazy cost of this stuff I think a thief is reading this. Dam, I'm already a Stage 1 turbo into this, surprised Ali hasn't brought that up!
It is a digital power distribution module. That basically means it delivers a total of 60amps that can be spread over 6 outputs to run accessories like radar, lights, heated gear, etc. There are no fuses so just turn the power off and it resets provided you fix the fault. Amplink | Rowe Electronics Seems a little extravagant but once you travel with one of these you won't leave home without it.
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