So arch, if you bought pre-drilled bolts, are you going to safety wire them? A better idea is to clip them together....
10-Year Anniversary Freshen-up
- Thread starter fallenarch
- Start date
So arch, if you bought pre-drilled bolts, are you going to safety wire them? A better idea is to clip them together....
explain?
healtech QS came today. It's getting fun having a package waiting at the door every day! better not get used to that.
Was going to go ahead and put it on and then I remembered I sold my brakes! Oh well wheels are due next week.
Was going to go ahead and put it on and then I remembered I sold my brakes! Oh well wheels are due next week.
I am due progress photos from the painter any day and I'm a bit nervous about it. As I have been collecting parts I am beginning to realize the success of the bike hinges on the paint, and budget wise I would not be able to repaint for a year or so.
First, I'm not insulting anyone's paint job, just expressing my personal goals. there a lot of paint schemes I love but would not rock.
So I didn't want a custom look to any of my schemes. I don't want to attract attention. I like schemes that look like they could be factory, so only people who really know Busas pick up on this is a special bike.
Super graphics are big in architecture right no and the Kanji is a perfect subject to abstract. But working on the scale on Photoshop I could not get it large enough to still be a
kanji, but I feel like it is big enough to not have the look of an applied graphic. Also there are busas with blue and black swooshes but the black is intended to break up the facade of the bike. I actually got the idea to use the black on the lower half of the bike to disguise how thick the bike is from the profile view. I took this idea from one of my favorite custom busas, I'll post it later as I'm posting from my phone.
the colors were less rationalized and more emotional. the blue is super complex. off axis its darker, almost a warm gray. the highlights are a rich, true blue. and finally there is a silver flake so fine it sparkles without looking like glitter in the paint. It's the most amazing color I have seen, subjectively speaking obviously.
So I'm worried the painter won't be able to recreate that magic. The kanji needs to be deformed, not just scaled up. Of all the painters I talked to, the guy I'm using seemed excited about it. All good painters are artists and those guys do their best on stuff they like.
Anyway I conceived this build as something Suzuki might do, like the Ducati "S" models. That can't be successful without a convincing factory paint scheme.
I love the idea of taking the remaining new Busas out there and elevating them. Not just adding mods but making a new model. for example, @c10 touring bike could be a 1340 GT, and it would be a great fast touring bike. @Roadtoad bike is a GXS1340 GTR. For me the turbos and blower busas are a special max performance group. I guess mine would be GSX1340 S.
First, I'm not insulting anyone's paint job, just expressing my personal goals. there a lot of paint schemes I love but would not rock.
So I didn't want a custom look to any of my schemes. I don't want to attract attention. I like schemes that look like they could be factory, so only people who really know Busas pick up on this is a special bike.
Super graphics are big in architecture right no and the Kanji is a perfect subject to abstract. But working on the scale on Photoshop I could not get it large enough to still be a
kanji, but I feel like it is big enough to not have the look of an applied graphic. Also there are busas with blue and black swooshes but the black is intended to break up the facade of the bike. I actually got the idea to use the black on the lower half of the bike to disguise how thick the bike is from the profile view. I took this idea from one of my favorite custom busas, I'll post it later as I'm posting from my phone.
the colors were less rationalized and more emotional. the blue is super complex. off axis its darker, almost a warm gray. the highlights are a rich, true blue. and finally there is a silver flake so fine it sparkles without looking like glitter in the paint. It's the most amazing color I have seen, subjectively speaking obviously.
So I'm worried the painter won't be able to recreate that magic. The kanji needs to be deformed, not just scaled up. Of all the painters I talked to, the guy I'm using seemed excited about it. All good painters are artists and those guys do their best on stuff they like.
Anyway I conceived this build as something Suzuki might do, like the Ducati "S" models. That can't be successful without a convincing factory paint scheme.
I love the idea of taking the remaining new Busas out there and elevating them. Not just adding mods but making a new model. for example, @c10 touring bike could be a 1340 GT, and it would be a great fast touring bike. @Roadtoad bike is a GXS1340 GTR. For me the turbos and blower busas are a special max performance group. I guess mine would be GSX1340 S.
This is the bike that I really like. They made the bike feel so light and I think splitting th side panels with the light and black colors does it. Yes the GSXR tail lightens the rear end but I have a Photoshop version with a gen 2 tail and it looks better than the this one. Yes this is very "custom bike" looking, which is why I didn't go a lot closer to this design.
Instead of safety wiring them together (which is what the racing orgs require and the purpose of pre-drilled bolts) you can put two small clips at each end of a piece of safety wire and clip them on; most race orgs allow it if done correctly and it keeps the bolts from backing out. In your case totally not necessary but couldn't understand why you'd want pre-drilled otherwise.
OK got it. Didn't know all of that. I just got drilled in case I ever decided to run a track day or something. Thx for the heads up and schooling. See, we don't have to just argue Left and Right all the time, Lol!
This is paint progress. Looks ok, I'm a little nervous now as I explained in post #287, but the blue looks in the ball park if a little sparkly. Painter says he will be done with graphics this week, dying to see that! @ali123 guy is doing a pretty good job. He is very responsive, and keeps his word. He hasn't really done anything like this judging by his website, but I do like working with him. We'll see soon!
These are the Sato rearsets, forgot to post these. looking at this photo with the blue and black panels makes me nervous though.....
Funny thing is it's looking just like the Photoshop!
These are the Sato rearsets, forgot to post these. looking at this photo with the blue and black panels makes me nervous though.....
Funny thing is it's looking just like the Photoshop!
BTW: Yes I noticed the front half of the side panel is wrong. He said he was going to cut the blue in later with the graphics.
Looking good, IMHO. Are these your original fairings, aftermarket, new OEM? Sorry if I missed a post where you mentioned this.
Thx new OEM
I think the blue is going to look fantastic!!!
Mr Brown
Registered
Remember, there are a million variables involved with looking at a picture vs the real thing. Don't get too caught up in how individual pieces are turning out color wise. As long as the guy does good prep work and lays the paint down right, it'll turn out great. Trust in the process.
Been working on my work plan for the build. Man this looks like a lot of work, may have to burn some vacation days. Comments welcome.
10 Year Freshen Up - Work Plan:
10 Year Freshen Up - Work Plan:
- Painting Swingarm:
- Remove swingarm and rear foot peg arms. Remove bearings.
- Sand scratches in swingarm. Take swingarm and foot pegs to powder coater for blasting and refinishing.
- Clean chain thoroughly. (chain and sprocket is only a year old with low mileage, going to keep it)
- Install new bearings I refinished swingarm. Reinstall swingarm.
- Wheels:
- Get all the parts installed on the rims, sprocket, rotors.
- Get tire mounted on the rims and balanced. Going Q3’s again.
- Front Brakes:
- Change the connectors for the brake light to the MC. Also adjust length of line and add the new connector to the bike brake light line.
- Install the MC on the handle bars. Test fit reservoir line and caliper lines. Check clearance to fairing.
- Remove front fender, tail cowl, chin panel and side panels (old ones). Tape radiator expansion tank with duct tape. I will be testing bike with no fairings.
- Install calipers on forks, attach lines.
- Install front wheel/rotor assembly. Check caliper fit/clearance and then torque everything up.
- Fill MC reservoir then bleed front calipers. Bleed MC. Strap lever to bars for 2-3 hours.
- Check for spilled brake fluid on bike and floor. Clean off all fluid drops.
- Steering Damper:
- Install Ohlins steering damper after removing the stock one.
- Install Ohlins steering damper after removing the stock one.
- Foot Pegs:
- Remove front sprocket cover and clean. Replace when done.
- Install rearsets. Switch shifter to GP-shift.
- Amplink
- Develop wiring diagram
- Remove existing fuse block from hump.
- Cut Amplink wires to length and add connectors.
- Measure wires and make wiring harness.
- Install wiring harness and attach Amplink module in trunk.
- Load app on cell phone and establish link to Amplink.
- Program circuits and test.
- Quick Shifter:
- Remove tank and air box.
- Attach QS module in trunk with hook & loops fasteners provided with QS. Run injector cut wires to front/top of engine bay and connect. Connect other wires for QS (ground, power, etc.)
- Run trip wire down to shifter and put strain gauge on shift linkage.
- Power up QS and link to cell phone and run setup.
- First Phase Road Testing: Brakes
- Check brake lights.
- Bed pads & rotors.
- Test brakes at low speed. Stop bike and visually inspect brake systems, check all connections.
- Test brakes at higher speeds. Cycle modes on MC to confirm operation.
- Reinspect all connections.
- Second Phase Road Testing – Quick Shifter:
- Get bike up to speed several times shifting with clutch.
- Try QS on 2-4 gears. Do not exceed 60 mph without fairings installed.
- Visual inspection of bike.
- Try QS in all 6 gears not exceeding 60 mph.
- QS must be working perfectly prior to moving on. If not, remove the QS system or trouble shoot it and delay project.
- Detail Bike (without fairings):
- Clean with soap/water and degreasers where needed.
- Remove R77 can and apply sealer on CF cover.
- Ceramic coat mid-pipe black (currently tarnished chrome).
- Fairings:
- Install CF front fender
- Install heat shielding in fairings
- Remove lights to be reused and install in new fairings.
- Install new led lights in fairings
- Add fuel pump and drain hoses to fuel tank.
- Install CF dash panels and attach long, CF inner fairings to outer fairings.
- Install fairings
- Clean with soft rag, no polish for a couple months.
Remember, there are a million variables involved with looking at a picture vs the real thing. Don't get too caught up in how individual pieces are turning out color wise. As long as the guy does good prep work and lays the paint down right, it'll turn out great. Trust in the process.
Yeah this is part of the creative process. When I design buildings there is always that point where you question yourself. I just review all of my decisions and if they are solid you move forward. That's where I am with this. I'm pretty comfortable with my choices thus far so we're in it to win it!
jeffgordons24
Registered
Dying to hear how you like this I am considering this or the PC one
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