1999 Hayabusa dying at operating temp, then won't start until cooled.

UPDATE:

I ended up buying:
Tanks Inc. Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulators AFPR1
Walbro High-Pressure Inline Fuel Pumps F30000271
Hose barb fitting for the pump and regulator.

Installed it tonight took around 2 hours. I used crimp clamps on most everything on 3/8" fuel line. FRP set at 43psi.

* Two things to note the return nipple and fuel rail nipple are smaller than 3/8. I put double crimps on the fuel rail nipple and i don't foresee it ever moving again, the return i used a high pressure hose clamp and it seems to be pretty solid as well. I may go back and use the correct line but i doubt it unless i have issues.

I used an inline Mr. Gasket clear filter and lots of elbows. its not perfect but i had room to mount it all under the tank and there are no kinks anywhere. Bike seems to be running solid, i'll run down and fill it up tomorrow then let it idle and see if it dies as before after running for a bit.

I know ill get flamed for using elbows and the incorrect fuel line size, but that's okay. Its a stock bike and i would like it to be as factory as possible or at least look like it is.

I have a stock pump for sale with the above listed new parts. (in the OP)

Thanks for your help, comments and harassment welcome.


P.S. -an8 is equal to 1/2", -an6 is equal to 3/8". I run -an8 and -an6 return in my 600hp Mach 1 so i believe -an8 may be overkill for most people. Bigger isn't always better.
 
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UPDATE:

I ended up buying:
Tanks Inc. Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulators AFPR1
Walbro High-Pressure Inline Fuel Pumps F30000271

Installed it tonight took around 2 hours. I used crimp clamps on most everything on 3/8" fuel line.

* Two things to note the return nipple and fuel rail nipple are smaller than 3/8. I put double crimps on the fuel rail nipple and i don't foresee it ever moving again, the return i used a high pressure hose clamp and it seems to be pretty solid as well. I may go back and use the correct line but
I used crimp clamps. Mine all leaked eventually. Replaced everything this winter except a fuel filter and it just started to leak.
 
Just wait til @RedBull gets warmed up....

You know, I was wondering why all those old posts were getting brought back to life. Thought something was wrong with the timestamp here. Friggin Red....lol


As long as its helpful, it may come in handy for someone else.

I'm sure a ton of it has been gone over, but just in case this never popped up:

for mine (2000), it would have a hard time starting on a hot day. I would have to lift the tank and then open the gas cap to relieve pressure. Then it would start.

I need to replace my fuel lines.
 
You know, I was wondering why all those old posts were getting brought back to life. Thought something was wrong with the timestamp here. Friggin Red....lol




I'm sure a ton of it has been gone over, but just in case this never popped up:

for mine (2000), it would have a hard time starting on a hot day. I would have to lift the tank and then open the gas cap to relieve pressure. Then it would start.

I need to replace my fuel lines.

I havent had any issues since installing the new pump and lines. The first 300 mile trip I clogged the filter with rust. That wasn’t exactly fun but that’s expected with a gas tank that’s been sitting for five years..

Any advice with a sticky fuel cap? It looks like its oxidized. I was think of trying CLR however I’m not sure if that’s the correct route to take. I have Trouble opening it with they key and I’m worried I’ll snap the dam thing off and have to Hotwire my bike at a gas station...
 
Good Lord. Sorry to leave you hanging, LD.

If you haven't found a solution to this yet, remove your entire gas cap and soak it in some CLR for a night.

After that, wash it nice, and then leave it in a dish soap soak for about half a day to get rid of any residue. Dry it off, give it a little spray of silicone in the key hole and joints and then reinstall. That should help it out.
 
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