2003 Gsxr1000
- Thread starter sixpack577
- Start date
Somebody was selling an '18 GSXR 1k here with 2300kms on it which were all put on in a dyno as it was an exhaust tester.....
It sat on the buy and sell all summer.....it was a white and blue one.....
I often wonder if it ever sold....
Not really, they go on pretty easily.
You can slide it left/right/up/down until your eye says it's right, then if any edge needs tl lay down, just use a rag and rub the cover back and forth.
A little heat from a hair dryer will take out any stubborn spots.
It goes on and fits really close to begin with, and is perfect within just a few minutes.
It's one of those things you just have to do, but there's nothing to it.
It's like a big refridgerator magnet, it peels off easy and snaps right back into place.
My tank has a rough powdercoat surface too, and it still sticks just fine.
I've done the number plates and lots of decals too, a spray bottle of water and a small squeegee is the trick with those.
It makes them easy to slide and move until you get it just right.
But the Mag-Knight has no adhesive, and doesn't need it.
I suppose you could tack it in places with rtv silicone if you wanted, but there's no need to.
Plenty of top speed runs on my old Gsxr1k with one, and the wind never once moved it any at all.
You can get an older one like mine in the $3k-$4k range, or less.
And build it however you like.
This one has been really fun, as it has alot of farkles, some weight loss, a few small power gains, and several custom brackets and touches.
I've modified the seat, pegs, and bars to fit me better too, and still have alot to go.
I'm all for getting a good used bike with a pipe, and putting on ss brake lines, better front brake pads, adjusting the suspension, and calling it good.
But, it is alot of fun to really start from scratch with everything maintenance, beefing up the brakes, dialing in the suspension, making it fit you, and doing alot of small custom mods that most people will never notice.
A longer term project that you really make your own, especially when you already have something else to ride, you can really go at your own pace, think alot on direction or changes, and put new parts on the shelf for when you get there.
This one started out going to get maintenance, put into good riding shape, basically stock, and probably traded or sold.
Then, while looking for new front rotors, an org member just happened to have a new in the box pair of Brembos, made for '03-'04 Gsxr1k's...what are the odds?!
He sold them to me for half price, and I couldn't say no.
So I would like to thank(Blame)
@HayaWakened for this money pit....
lmao
WuzzaCBXRider
Registered
Speaking of parts for older bikes, I needed a right side ignition/kill switch for my old Honda and I found one here. Seems they make parts for several bikes. I got mine thru ebay but here’s their url direct
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P.a.i.r block-off plates on.
Leave the reed valves in, as they hold the rubber seal, vs just metal to metal.
I cleaned them with rubbing alcohol, and they probably wouldn't leak without rtv sealant on them, but I used some Yamabond on there anyway, lol
And anti-sieze on the ss bolts(not included) as usual.
Leave the reed valves in, as they hold the rubber seal, vs just metal to metal.
I cleaned them with rubbing alcohol, and they probably wouldn't leak without rtv sealant on them, but I used some Yamabond on there anyway, lol
And anti-sieze on the ss bolts(not included) as usual.
LC4CARL
Registered
The eye wanders…
portland.craigslist.org
2006 GSXR1000 - motorcycles/scooters - by owner - vehicle automotive bike sale - craigslist
K61k I am the original owner, bought brand new in 2006. Still have the original sales sheet. It breaks my heart to sell her, but sell her I must. Tons of aftermarket parts: -Motion Pro throttle -...
WuzzaCBXRider
Registered
The eye wanders…
2006 GSXR1000 - motorcycles/scooters - by owner - vehicle automotive bike sale - craigslist
K61k I am the original owner, bought brand new in 2006. Still have the original sales sheet. It breaks my heart to sell her, but sell her I must. Tons of aftermarket parts: -Motion Pro throttle -...
I recently watched a vintage video of the four cylinder GS1100s vs the liter+ six of the CBX. One of each low sided in a corner and others stayed out. The lead changed over and over. Neither bike could pull ahead enough to make a commanding lead. The finish was GS, GS, CBX. A lap or two later it could’ve easily changed positions. Was really a great race to watch. Was a multi class race as 750s were in it too. Was cool seeing the front row, Honda Honda Suzuki Suzuki with the 750s lining row two and behind. I guess it must have taken place in 1979 or 1980. I should’ve saved it.
LC4CARL
Registered
The best races go the last lap.
WuzzaCBXRider
Registered
I record all the GP races but the October 2022 Australian GP @ Philip Island I kept. I watch it now and then for the killer competition. For the last 8-10 laps and especially the last 5, five riders were in the running for first. Top talent and equal bikes really made a show. Inches apart lap after lap. It’s probably easy enough to find on their site or YouTube. Helluva race!
The eye wanders…
2006 GSXR1000 - motorcycles/scooters - by owner - vehicle automotive bike sale - craigslist
K61k I am the original owner, bought brand new in 2006. Still have the original sales sheet. It breaks my heart to sell her, but sell her I must. Tons of aftermarket parts: -Motion Pro throttle -...
That is a steal!
I traded a Concours for my '03 Gsxr1k simply because I could, but, if I had a choice on the year, I would've got an 05-06.
That bike has all the right parts, and the 41k miles is nothing.
That bike here would easily list around $8500, and sell for at least $7500.
Ch'olins steering dampner.
I have looked at countless dampners for months now, and Ohlins and Hyper-Pro dampners are easy to find, but mounting brackets...not so much.
The only brackets thats I could find were in the UK, listed on their site...but no longer available.
So I bought this chinese dampner and bracket set, as I was unsure anyway what I could make work with the ABM top-clamp(dirtbike bars).
I would rather expirament with cheaper parts when I'm not sure what I can make work.
This whole project has ended up with quality big name parts, just because I want things that I can trust, so this is the first part that is a gamble.
So far, it looks promising.
Just holding the dampner and moving it by hand, it seems to work very well.
As for the aluminum brackets, the center mount that goes under the steering nut, that will need the sides trimmed to fit between the handlebar mounts, and the bottom back edge trimmed so that it can sit flush on the top clamp, and so it will not turn side to side when the dampner moves.
That's a job for my old man's milling machine, and it should work then.
The other two mounting brackets and the mounting clamp seem as though they will work fine, and it came with nice stainless steel mounting bolts.
For $85 shipped, I'm happy with it for now, as it will either meet my needs, or I'll end up with a good mounting setup that I can put an Ohlins or Hyper-Pro dampner into.
Regardless, it seems to work just as well as stock, only with alot of adjustability.
I like a dampner up on the bars, so I can adjust it on the fly, until I finally settle on where I like it set for most of the time, vs having to stop, reach under the nose, adjust it, and the leave the lower nose trim out so that I can.
When finished it will sit similiarly to this gold one on the stock triple-clamp.
I have looked at countless dampners for months now, and Ohlins and Hyper-Pro dampners are easy to find, but mounting brackets...not so much.
The only brackets thats I could find were in the UK, listed on their site...but no longer available.
So I bought this chinese dampner and bracket set, as I was unsure anyway what I could make work with the ABM top-clamp(dirtbike bars).
I would rather expirament with cheaper parts when I'm not sure what I can make work.
This whole project has ended up with quality big name parts, just because I want things that I can trust, so this is the first part that is a gamble.
So far, it looks promising.
Just holding the dampner and moving it by hand, it seems to work very well.
As for the aluminum brackets, the center mount that goes under the steering nut, that will need the sides trimmed to fit between the handlebar mounts, and the bottom back edge trimmed so that it can sit flush on the top clamp, and so it will not turn side to side when the dampner moves.
That's a job for my old man's milling machine, and it should work then.
The other two mounting brackets and the mounting clamp seem as though they will work fine, and it came with nice stainless steel mounting bolts.
For $85 shipped, I'm happy with it for now, as it will either meet my needs, or I'll end up with a good mounting setup that I can put an Ohlins or Hyper-Pro dampner into.
Regardless, it seems to work just as well as stock, only with alot of adjustability.
I like a dampner up on the bars, so I can adjust it on the fly, until I finally settle on where I like it set for most of the time, vs having to stop, reach under the nose, adjust it, and the leave the lower nose trim out so that I can.
When finished it will sit similiarly to this gold one on the stock triple-clamp.
Custom clutch switch mount and bracket for ASV clutch perch.
This allows the clutch switch to perform the same as on the factory clutch perch, as the ASV perch does Not come with a mount for the switch.
Without this switch mount the bike would not change between neutral maps and gear maps when the clutch is engaged/disengaged, and I would have had to install a relay to do that instead.
So another great mod from my old man's workshop.
And yes, the cable still fits, only the bracket needs loosened to install the cable.
This allows the clutch switch to perform the same as on the factory clutch perch, as the ASV perch does Not come with a mount for the switch.
Without this switch mount the bike would not change between neutral maps and gear maps when the clutch is engaged/disengaged, and I would have had to install a relay to do that instead.
So another great mod from my old man's workshop.
And yes, the cable still fits, only the bracket needs loosened to install the cable.
The '21 Gsxr1000R Showa rear shock is in!
This is a Huge win, and for cheap.
This '21 rear shock looks and feels brand new!
And for $147, plus $140 for Soupy's +2"/-2" adjustable on bike lower links, kept the budget in check.
This adapter was of course free, but would be around a couple hundred to pay a machinist for a couple hours, setup and run time plus a small piece of aluminum round bar.
Regardless, for the money, this will transform the handling of an '03, along with RaceTech springs and Gold valves for the front, which with seals and oil was still under $400.
So I will be under $700 in a very well performing full suspension upgrade.
I am very grateful that my Dad is still able to make parts for my bikes, and that he still enjoys making things.
The custom lower clevis adapter threaded on, and the '03 clevis went on to the '21 shock and spring just the same as the stock '21 clevis did.
The '03 Gsxr1k spring comes off the shock just by loosening the 2 upper nuts/lock rings, which is just like the Gen1, 2, and 3 Busa.
However the '17-'24 Gsxr1000R Showa shock requires a spring compressor to remove or install it.
This Tusk spring compressor that I have has clear plastic guards to keep from scratching the spring, and makes the whole job very easy, and the spring doesn't need compressed very much.
The whole swap only took a few minutes.
I rolled the bike off of the table to check the ride height, which is only about a half inch taller.
I put the shock in on the stock lower links, then installed the Soupys links at stock length.
I will adjust the ride height after the bike is ready to test ride, and will get the whole suspension dialed in accordingly.
I have it back on the table again, but swapped out the front wheel chock for the front forklift/triple-clamp stand, so I can start on the forks next.
The shock needs adjusted obviously, but it felt great rolling the bike around.
The compression and rebound feel like a brand new bike, as hoped and expected!
The old '03 shock was tired, and there is no comparison as to how much better the new shock is.
I really like the black and gold color of the new shock too, as it matches the bike, and I prefer it's look and design compared to old silver with a yellow spring.
This is a Huge win, and for cheap.
This '21 rear shock looks and feels brand new!
And for $147, plus $140 for Soupy's +2"/-2" adjustable on bike lower links, kept the budget in check.
This adapter was of course free, but would be around a couple hundred to pay a machinist for a couple hours, setup and run time plus a small piece of aluminum round bar.
Regardless, for the money, this will transform the handling of an '03, along with RaceTech springs and Gold valves for the front, which with seals and oil was still under $400.
So I will be under $700 in a very well performing full suspension upgrade.
I am very grateful that my Dad is still able to make parts for my bikes, and that he still enjoys making things.
The custom lower clevis adapter threaded on, and the '03 clevis went on to the '21 shock and spring just the same as the stock '21 clevis did.
The '03 Gsxr1k spring comes off the shock just by loosening the 2 upper nuts/lock rings, which is just like the Gen1, 2, and 3 Busa.
However the '17-'24 Gsxr1000R Showa shock requires a spring compressor to remove or install it.
This Tusk spring compressor that I have has clear plastic guards to keep from scratching the spring, and makes the whole job very easy, and the spring doesn't need compressed very much.
The whole swap only took a few minutes.
I rolled the bike off of the table to check the ride height, which is only about a half inch taller.
I put the shock in on the stock lower links, then installed the Soupys links at stock length.
I will adjust the ride height after the bike is ready to test ride, and will get the whole suspension dialed in accordingly.
I have it back on the table again, but swapped out the front wheel chock for the front forklift/triple-clamp stand, so I can start on the forks next.
The shock needs adjusted obviously, but it felt great rolling the bike around.
The compression and rebound feel like a brand new bike, as hoped and expected!
The old '03 shock was tired, and there is no comparison as to how much better the new shock is.
I really like the black and gold color of the new shock too, as it matches the bike, and I prefer it's look and design compared to old silver with a yellow spring.
.....
Of course the compression adjuster in the '03 lower clevis is not needed or used, as Both compression and rebound adjust at the top of the '21 shock, and both function normally.
Of course the compression adjuster in the '03 lower clevis is not needed or used, as Both compression and rebound adjust at the top of the '21 shock, and both function normally.
Soupy's lower links weigh about a pound more
Stock lower links
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