2006 Hyabusa - Cranks won't start

Franknbeans

Franknbeans

Registered
Hey guys, I have a 2006 hyabusa motor in my kit car.
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I'm not sure why it will not start. It worked fine one day, and the next it just cranks and cranks.

It's not the kick stand switch. I have that wired into a toggle switch on the car for extra security.
It's not the tip over switch. I bought the Schnitz Tip Over Sensor Eliminator.

I pulled the fuel rail with the injectors connected still. Hit the start button and all injectors are working.

I pulled a spark plug boot, put a screw driver in it and spark tested. It sparks, but not "real strong". But I'm not sure if I tested it right or if that is what the stock spark looks like.

I pulled all the plugs and cleaned them. But it still will not start.

Any ideas of what I should be doing?
 
Hey franknbeans.
Have u got any more news for us yet? Sry it's been almost 24 hrs with no responses.

Questions:
Are u powering the vehicle using complete factory wiring diagram? Minus the eliminated switch u mentioned.
Is it at least 'trying' to fire?
Are u using the factory dashboard or is there a way u can check if any/ what codes?
Is the fuel pump priming with key on engine off?
 
Check ECU pin 17 (O/W) for power when key switch and starter switch on. If no power at that ECU pin then there is a broken wire between ur coils and the ECU, or ur fuel pump relay and the ecu.
If ur fuel pump is not priming but u are getting power to that ECU pin 17 ECU pin 9 (Y/B) for the first couple seconds after u turn on the engine start/stop switch, the Y/B wire between fuel pump relay and ECU pin 9 may be broken. That pin of the ECU provides the short term ground to prime the fuel pump.

If that all checks out but ur fuel pump is still not priming, check the R/Bl wire going into fuel pump relay, that should be constant 12v. I believe this will work for u since u have Injector operation, but the Y/R wire out of the fuel pump relay will provide power to the Injectors AND the pump.
That Y/R wire also grounds to the ECU pin 42. Check for power there upon the first few seconds of engine start/stop switch engagement. If no power there and then, then u have a broken wire between the relay/injectors/pump to the ECU.

When you press the start button it gives power to the Y/G wire coming out which gives power to ECU pin 28 Y/G. Check for 12v there when u depress the start button.
The B/Y wire coming out of the starter relay is ur ground. That goes to ECU pin 19 and fully gets grounded thru the clutch switch.
Ur starter will not engage without the clutch switch obviously.

That should be all the preliminary ECU inputs/grounds which control the starting sequences. In other words, that should be ALL the information ECU is getting for proper startup.
Anything beyond this should be running sequence or ECU control of spark/injector timing.

I HOPE it is not ur ECU, but check all those ECU pins for above described power/ground sequence.

Also I pray I didn't send u on a wild goose chase lol
But just trying to help
 
Also, ECU pin 60 O/Y needs to recognize 100ohms of resistance. The ignition switch provides this thru the O/Y and its ground when the ignition switch is on B/W.
Usually the ECU will not allow the fuel pump to operate tho, so just another thought.
 
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So this is basically my thread now Haha
But hey, just in case, here is all that u should need to diagnose if its electrical.
If it's a code you'll have to of course resort to the owners manual.

Please get back to me, I NEEEED to know what the verdict is lol u get it...
 
*CORRECTION TO MY 2nd POST*

Check ECU pin 17 (O/W) for power when key switch and engine start/stop switch on. If no power at that ECU pin then there is a broken wire between ur coils and the ECU, or ur fuel pump relay and the ecu.
This circuit flows thru the fuel pump relay and grounds to ECU pin 9 Y/B which only engages for a few seconds after start/stop button (priming). Check ECU pin 9 for that short term 12v.

If the relay is working, which yours should be, it should click and provide power thru the relays R/Bl (constant 12v) to the Y/R wire.
The Y/R wire between fuel pump relay and ECU pin 42 may be broken. That relay provides the short term power for fuel pump priming.

If that all checks out but ur fuel pump is still not priming, check the R/Bl wire going into fuel pump relay, that should be constant 12v. I believe this will work for u since u have Injector operation, but the Y/R wire out of the fuel pump relay will provide power to the Injectors AND the pump.
That Y/R wire also gives fuel pump info to the ECU pin 42. Check for power there upon the first few seconds of engine start/stop switch engagement, and cranking. If no power there (and then), then u have a broken wire between the relay/injectors/pump to the ECU.

When you press the start button it gives power to the Y/G wire coming out which gives power (info) to ECU pin 28 Y/G. Check for 12v there when u depress the start button.
The B/Y wire coming out of the starter relay is ur ground. That goes to ECU pin 19 and fully gets grounded thru the clutch switch.
Ur starter will not engage without the clutch switch obviously.

this should be a more accurate explanation
 
Holy crap fast-pace!!
Ever heard of 'information overload'???
Poor guy only wants some clues as to where to start looking, and you give him a 300 page essay straight out of some electrical engineers briefing for the space shuttle's systems analytics! lmao.
Just to simplify things ever so SLIGHTLY , just spray some fuel into the airbox as you are cranking it.
If it fires and runs for a few seconds, you have a fuel pump or fuel supply issue.
If it still does not fire at all you have a spark supply issue.
Try this test first, then come back to us with the results and wait for an answer. :rolleyes:
 
fast_pace77 said:
Hahaha I kinda feel bad for sure.
But I do just want this guy to be fully equipped lol
And Im super hungry and not thinking straight so I totally botched one or more facts...
Good luck!!! Haha :super:
Click to expand...
Grab some blueberries, raspberries, strawberries and blackberries, cover them in natural UNSWEETENED Acidopholous yoghurt and get that down ya!
You will be amazed how good you will feel eating that superfood.
That's what I have for breakfast and I'm good all day, I buy the 1Kg frozen bags of mixed berries, ya can't go wrong mate!
 
That's some brain food right there. I'd be rippin diagnosis, shreddin pages, and screamin thru manuals... lol jk
But ya we're actually at the cheesecake factory for a friends bday
Super nice restaurant and hella good food so I've been fasting all day just to eat as much gourmet food and cheesecake as possible Haha
It's not all the time I get this :laugh:
Lol cheers my man
 
RansomT said:
Check the voltage as it is cranking. If it drops below 11v, then the plugs won't fire.
Click to expand...
Is there a vid on how to check the volt at the coils?

The fuel pump primes fine. I hear it come on when i turn the bike on, I can see it build pressure in my FP gauge. As I said, I pulled the fuel rail with the injectors connected and hit the start button to see if the injectors where working and they all worked. (fuel mist came out of all 4.) I'll get a video up here to show a bit of what's going on.


I appreciate all the help!
 
Cranking pretty fast to be 12v starting system. Do a compression test. Could be, and I said "could", broken timing chain.
 
How should we check the ecu?
Franknbeans, did u do any pin checks at ecu during cranking? Are u getting any codes? Did u check all the 4 ecu grounds (they run different things which may be the 'running' cycle of injectors or coils)?

Run thru the starting sequence pin tests.

-Make sure the Br wire coming out of the vacuum control solenoid is getting power to the ecu pin 7 when u click on the start/stop button.
-The O/W at ecu pin 17 should be also 12v at start/stop button engagement.
-Is the Y/R wire coming out of the fuel pump relay give 12v to ecu pin 42 while the fuel pump is priming.
-the coils all get power off a grey wire and - like ransom said - the action happens on the ground side cause the ecu grounds them out. If u have a multitester with a light that illuminates when the circuit completes you could connect the + and - and crank. Otherwise you may have to look up to see a good coil tester. Maybe just continuity? But I'd be interested in the ecu output side.

U may have an internal ecu issue that I'm trying to sort out.

What i really want to know is if u have any codes...
 
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