mikejmd
Registered
I agree, I'm a aggressive driver (stoplight to 10 over the limit), but usually run 3rd or 4th gear at 50 mph and average about 35 mpg. I agree, something isn't right unless you redline all day. Slow down Blanca.
lease:
Blanca needs HELP..
- Thread starter Blanca BusaLess
- Start date
I agree, I'm a aggressive driver (stoplight to 10 over the limit), but usually run 3rd or 4th gear at 50 mph and average about 35 mpg. I agree, something isn't right unless you redline all day. Slow down Blanca.
lease:If anything, do one thing at a time. Yes, tape and wire ECU pokes are old style. Clear glue like GOOP brand is the better setup. Plus it comes off fairly easy off wires and plastic. Once the glue sets, you can't move the wire. The heat means nothing to this glue. That tape is falling off from the heat, that is not like wire harness tape that is more stable and durable with heat and time. Time to clean that mess up.
Getting back to that heat sink you found. That is a current draw. Replace it with a fuse to cover your rear cooking the harness. That melt is not right and without you first removing that thing and complete the circuit back up is tie it back up with the fuse type connector. If it burns out, then say it runs like it's running now >> I have no clue but the glue is tube up and fuse it. Then take it for a ride.
The snap connects are too dependable you looking there. Snap connect is a dead injector. This is an all cylinders running 'drive-ability' problem. See that diagnostic think is I think that melted heat protector thing a ding is ding-ding-ding! I think you found it
Cross your fingers.
Getting back to that heat sink you found. That is a current draw. Replace it with a fuse to cover your rear cooking the harness. That melt is not right and without you first removing that thing and complete the circuit back up is tie it back up with the fuse type connector. If it burns out, then say it runs like it's running now >> I have no clue but the glue is tube up and fuse it. Then take it for a ride.
The snap connects are too dependable you looking there. Snap connect is a dead injector. This is an all cylinders running 'drive-ability' problem. See that diagnostic think is I think that melted heat protector thing a ding is ding-ding-ding! I think you found it
Cross your fingers.
Dont redline much . Maybe 1-2% of total time on bike is Ludicrous Speed.
Sure I go fast but not crazy. My rides usually consist of about a 100 mile loop around the Lake and I am going about 80-90 most of the time with maybe 3-4 stops throughout that loop. Just a nice quick cruise. I do open it up on these runs 'sometimes' and will get thru 4th or 5th for a couple seconds. It seems like 30-40 but I am sure it is less than 15 seconds where I am full throttle 2-3 times during ride. Other than that under 5-6rpms rest of time.
MPGs have been less than all of you from the day I rode her home ?
Now after Full Brocks, Xtre , PC V, Dyno tune and tweaking to a gain of almost 25+ HP it is down about 2.5MPGs from stock.
27-30mpgs stock
now
25-a bit more modded
But agreed and I dont know why since day one it has always been poor...?
Sure I go fast but not crazy. My rides usually consist of about a 100 mile loop around the Lake and I am going about 80-90 most of the time with maybe 3-4 stops throughout that loop. Just a nice quick cruise. I do open it up on these runs 'sometimes' and will get thru 4th or 5th for a couple seconds. It seems like 30-40 but I am sure it is less than 15 seconds where I am full throttle 2-3 times during ride. Other than that under 5-6rpms rest of time.
MPGs have been less than all of you from the day I rode her home ?
Now after Full Brocks, Xtre , PC V, Dyno tune and tweaking to a gain of almost 25+ HP it is down about 2.5MPGs from stock.
27-30mpgs stock
now
25-a bit more modded
But agreed and I dont know why since day one it has always been poor...?
Just funny that 2 days ago I started going down a diff path and by dropping a washer from tank bolt into oblivion I check plugs and dont put coil plug back on all the way.
It was on but had not snapped in. This throws error and FI light which I spend today figuring out. Now thats done and I'm back to square 1.
I took a wrong turn and wound up where I started ? Go figure.
Error code I caused is gone but it still aint right.
Maybe 95%. 5% mystery ?
Maybe just plain bad gas.
The melted part I am not sure about but obv it aint in good shape.
Seems to run fairly well and I wonder if I could cruise it an hour south for them to look at ? Rates are just about same at dealer as the perf shop but I would rather have the doctor who created this work on it than somebody who will first have to figure out what was done. Easier to fix if you made it I think ?
I'm hungry...need Eggo waffles !
It was on but had not snapped in. This throws error and FI light which I spend today figuring out. Now thats done and I'm back to square 1.
I took a wrong turn and wound up where I started ? Go figure.
Error code I caused is gone but it still aint right.
Maybe 95%. 5% mystery ?
Maybe just plain bad gas.
The melted part I am not sure about but obv it aint in good shape.
Seems to run fairly well and I wonder if I could cruise it an hour south for them to look at ? Rates are just about same at dealer as the perf shop but I would rather have the doctor who created this work on it than somebody who will first have to figure out what was done. Easier to fix if you made it I think ?
I'm hungry...need Eggo waffles !
2busa thanks. If I read you right you think I need to replace whatever is inside melted shrink wrap with a fuse, correct ?
Only tape I found coming off was little piece around 3 wires going into TPS. Is this area you refer to regarding glue instead of elec tape ?
What exactly is this thing doing (part under shrink wrap) ?
What is its purpose and by saying ding ding do you think I may have gotten lucky and found my smoking gun ?
Only tape I found coming off was little piece around 3 wires going into TPS. Is this area you refer to regarding glue instead of elec tape ?
What exactly is this thing doing (part under shrink wrap) ?
What is its purpose and by saying ding ding do you think I may have gotten lucky and found my smoking gun ?
BIG GUY
Registered
Have you given a thought at looking at the kickstand switch? The tab on the kickstand on my bike had gotten bent just a little and under acceleration it would lose contact with the switch and cause the bike to hesitate or even shut off? My mechanic ended up figuring out the problem and didn't even charge me for the work that he put in on it.
No I havent , but simple enough to do a quick check of it.
At this point I am considering ridng it down to the shop who did the work and let them poke around.
After last night of 30 mins or so on it gives me confidence that I think I could make it there.
She needs Dr. Rons TLC.
At this point I am considering ridng it down to the shop who did the work and let them poke around.
After last night of 30 mins or so on it gives me confidence that I think I could make it there.
She needs Dr. Rons TLC.
I figured the error was one I created cuz it was not that bad before I took it apart.
Then as soon as I started it after checking plugs light came on.
I knew it was something I had done to cause it. Just did not get it snapped all the way in .
The coil was all the way down on plug just that plug to coil had a mm more to go.
Yes the shop is reliable and I trust them.
Its why I drive an hr south instead of go to dealer 5mins away.
No they should not have probs going over FrankenBusa Blanca but if it costs me a bit
to get Dr Ron to fix her up it will be ok.
http://www.blaiscycle.com/
At this point I am waiting to hear from him regarding last pics of melted part and wheterh or not he thinks this may be a cause or factor.
If he doesnt think it is then obv it needs to be addressed but then I will drain tank and change plugs and go that route.
Then as soon as I started it after checking plugs light came on.
I knew it was something I had done to cause it. Just did not get it snapped all the way in .
The coil was all the way down on plug just that plug to coil had a mm more to go.
Yes the shop is reliable and I trust them.
Its why I drive an hr south instead of go to dealer 5mins away.
No they should not have probs going over FrankenBusa Blanca but if it costs me a bit
to get Dr Ron to fix her up it will be ok.
http://www.blaiscycle.com/
At this point I am waiting to hear from him regarding last pics of melted part and wheterh or not he thinks this may be a cause or factor.
If he doesnt think it is then obv it needs to be addressed but then I will drain tank and change plugs and go that route.
Familiar prolly cuz I have posted about them in other threads a few times...
Zero complaints...and happy
Zero complaints...and happy
Dozerdriver
Registered
Not sure what the extra wiring things you have going on... I haven't seen anything like them on either a Xtre or PC . I would find out what that extra stuff is for and why you need it. Do you have a alarm or lo jack on your bike? I hope it isn't some jerry rigged stuff on there... I would unhook all of it ( XTRE and PC ) and just install what comes with them. Might not be easy to go back from what you have on there... hope it works out soon.
BlancaBusa, where are you in SoFla?
Dozer nuthin Jerry rigged. If its there it was done with purpose.
As mentioned I am confident in shop.
BusaCaptain I'm in West Palm
As mentioned I am confident in shop.
BusaCaptain I'm in West Palm
YW. Yes. If you are saying the loose spark stick was not it, then what looks like a fuse-able link, could kill that 5% of the drive-ability you still feel. See, I have the Tfi fuel cutter. They run with tiny pots you screw turn for fuel trim. I use a fuse for this piggy with the battery or hot wire having that fuse between unit and battery.
I just finished building a chopper using old Sportster parts for the wiring. The bike runs perfect. But if this one fuse blows, the bike runs like it's hitting the rpm limiter, because it runs on one cylinder and the other sorta kicks in every now and then to keep the engine running. That made me thing "fuse."
And whatever setup they use as a fuse from the PC to battery, that might be the same kind of drive-ability stumble, where it is not flowing through that melted part of what looks like some sort of fuse. I'd love to rip a razor across it, see what is under it. It's just shrink wrap around that fuse like thing. It looks like you can pull those ends apart real easy. They look like early Honda male/female snap together sockets.
You can take that melted part out, take your fuse, peel the wire cover away so you can spool the copper wire round enough to hold in the socket fitting for the test. If that is the dramatic 5% change, the bike is back to normal. I would bring more fuses just in case that 'stability' problem occurs.
Yes. I have an example of the glue protecting the exposed ribbon and other parts re-glued back on the unit.
I am not certain what is under that wrap, but I would remove and replace that part you noticed. That guess is how I associate the chopper's fuse with your PC being a "Drive-ability" problem to question. With all the photos pointing the way, I could only find something very obvious within the loop of the PC > is not the problem, but the burnt fuse instead.
That is why if the normal store bought fuse cleans the tune
Clang-Clang! 
Ding-Ding!
Neat pic.
Thanks for the info.
Shop read link.
I'll call them in the morning and formulate a plan.
Tomorrow is a good day to cruise down there.
Also need to let them look at susp cuz it still skips front wheel on the throttle in 4th and 5th. A bit unsettlin it is .
Since shop is an hour away I may do as they suggested and drain all gas replace with fresh and change plugs as well. Why not...cant hurt
Dr Ron at Blais if you check this thread again please email me and let me know if I can come down tomorrow.
Thanks for the info.
Shop read link.
I'll call them in the morning and formulate a plan.
Tomorrow is a good day to cruise down there.
Also need to let them look at susp cuz it still skips front wheel on the throttle in 4th and 5th. A bit unsettlin it is .
Since shop is an hour away I may do as they suggested and drain all gas replace with fresh and change plugs as well. Why not...cant hurt
Dr Ron at Blais if you check this thread again please email me and let me know if I can come down tomorrow.
Wasnt gonna clean em just replace them as well as the gas.
No it doesnt skip in gear with front going up .
Not when I shift 1st ta 2nd then to 3rd runs fine...
When I shift hard from 4th to 5th now the wheel just dances on the road rather than being nice and settled.
This is a direct thing related to the wheels I put on. OEM wheels it did not skip. Lighter wheels , modded with 25+ more HP she tries to lift at speed and it is just a bit unsettling is all.
No it doesnt skip in gear with front going up .
Not when I shift 1st ta 2nd then to 3rd runs fine...
When I shift hard from 4th to 5th now the wheel just dances on the road rather than being nice and settled.
This is a direct thing related to the wheels I put on. OEM wheels it did not skip. Lighter wheels , modded with 25+ more HP she tries to lift at speed and it is just a bit unsettling is all.
kingbusa
Registered
Thanks blanca for starting this thread. I just had this problem when I rode my bike today with my wife on the way to the pizza place. All of sudden the engine died at the red stop but I was able to start the bike back on (the oil lights came on). I though that was weird. After we ate I turned the bike on fine then all of sudden it turned off. I started it again and the engine run fine but it won't click on 1st gear so I had to put her on 2nd gear and drove off. After not even 15 seconds, it died at the stop sign and I smelled burning oil. The oil light came on again and the FI light keep blinking. I have to keep rev the bike on the way home so it won't die. I gotta check with the dealer code that you all been talking about here tomorrow.
But before today ride, I rode my bike 2 days ago for about 10 miles with no problem under the same weather condition, which is about 57. My mods are full brocks with custom map PC from Brocks.
I had the bike sit on my garage before for more than a month and filled the oil almost all the way up (people on this thread suggested this), but I didn't change the oil when I started to ride my bike. Because people at the dealership and a couple of my friends told me it is not necessary. So I didn't change the oil and rode the bike with the oil slightly above normal. Could this be a problem? Is that why I smelled the oil burning?
But before today ride, I rode my bike 2 days ago for about 10 miles with no problem under the same weather condition, which is about 57. My mods are full brocks with custom map PC from Brocks.
I had the bike sit on my garage before for more than a month and filled the oil almost all the way up (people on this thread suggested this), but I didn't change the oil when I started to ride my bike. Because people at the dealership and a couple of my friends told me it is not necessary. So I didn't change the oil and rode the bike with the oil slightly above normal. Could this be a problem? Is that why I smelled the oil burning?
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