Fine if you are a butcher. I'm not one of those. Why would anyone in his right mind mess with that? Mikuni carburetors have a jet with a needle which moves up and down in the jet, based on throttle position. The needle is adjustable, with a circlip which can be moved up or down in a number of positions to make fueling richer or leaner. Why butcher the float?
How do you know how far to bend that tab either way? How would you try and measure that towards changing fueling mixture?
Sometimes simple is so much easier and more user friendly.
The float tang Can be bent if need be, then the floats are measured with calipers, which there will be a range for the spec, and the reference points to measure from.
It is then checked by a 'clear tube method'.
A clear tube is put on the float bowl drain, the tube is held vertical against the side of the carburetor body, the gas turned on, and the gas rises in the tube.
The gas level will have a reference point, usually being the line where the float bowl attaches to the carb body, and the gas level will be even with that, or usually within 3mm below or above it, depending on modifications.
It is a measurable and repeatable process with noticeable results, and I have done several over the years.
Most floats don't stick, if they do, then whole carb is gummed up and there are other problems anyway.
I think the old 'stuck float' became the go-to answer for thosr that don't understand carburetors.
The needle and seat being worn is almost always the culprit for overflowing.
Most factory carbs are set well, but there are some where float adjustments can improve how they run.
Syncing multiple carbs(or throttle bodies) is rarely dramatic, and not needed unless the carbs have be touched before, but can slighlty improve idle and throttle response.
I think that most do not know that the pilot circuit controls idle to quarter throttle, the needles in the slides control 1/4 to 3/4, and the main jets control 3/4 to wide open, with some overlap.
And that the fuel screw for the pilot is a valve to control it's flow rate.
Everything needs to be correct.
A full exhaust and high flow air filters almost always need larger main jets, a needle clip position change, and sometimes a fuel screw adjustment.
It is usually pretty easy to tell where the problem(s) are in a carburetor(s).
I like carbs, even though they can be a pain to make changes to...but I love that one push of the start button with no choke that fuel injection gives, no matter the weather.
It's also nice to make changes by pushing buttons vs turning screwdrivers and pulling Tiny e-clips, lol
