Cold Starts Dangerous ???

[haya4life]

Its been diving down to the low 40s here in the Northeast in the morning and evening when I ride my 08 Busa to and from work.

Riddle Me This:

Why does the bike sound like a diesel (ruff idle) for about 20 seconds before it is smooth (bike has 495 miles on it, brand new, oil is full and clear in color). If I try to twist the throttle slightly during that time period it will stall. I thought that fuel injection bikes start and run smooth instantly like some cars. This is my first fuel injected bike. How long should I be idling before I start to ride in 40F. I assume the bike is running real lean in those first few minutes. Is that good or bad or irrelavent?

Also, when you turn it on, what is that humm sound that lasts about 3 seconds while the instrument panel is cycling like something is aligning? Do busa's have a throttle body like on my Audi that aligns everytime you start the bike?

Finally, I notice that if the bike sits overnight and I start to ride, my very first pull on the front brake makes the front dip about an inch or two really fast like the front shocks have no pressure. Then after that initial braking, it functions fine. Whats that all about.

I have not gotten my first service yet which is suppose to be an oil change and full inspection. They told me 600 miles. Should I take it in now? Does this sound like anything to be concerned about?

Let me know your thoughts....... Thanks ??????

 

[Dozerdriver]

The Busa has a cold start in the ECU... I wait until the temp gauge starts to move befire I ride. The fuel pump is the noise you hear charging the fuel line. As far as the forks it sounds like the brakes are grabbing a little better and the shock oil is cold.... everything needs to warms up.

 

[BA BUSA]

All that stuff is normal...the humm you hear for the first 2-3 seconds is the fuel pump pressurizing the system. The bike will start right away when cold, but give it 20-30 seconds before you hit the throttle...it needs to warm up a bit before it will idle and run properly. The brakes being grabby and the front end dive is because everything is cold...when you get up in the morning, do you stretch and loosen up...or do you take off in a sprint?

I like to first do a pre flight check...kick the tires and check a few things on the bike before I start it. Then I make sure it's in neutral, start the bike...while it's running...I put on my helmet and gloves. Then she's ready to go...just take it easy on the first few stops, so the suspension and brakes can warm up too

 

[haya4life]

When I get up in the morning I have no time to stretch and loosen up and if my muscles cramp, that will teach them to keep up tomorrow morning. I guess that philosophy doesn't work very well in this application as my busa is bound to buck me off.

I will do my flight check tomorrow and see how it goes. Thanks a million!

 

[BUBBA]

Its been diving down to the low 40s here in the Northeast in the morning and evening when I ride my 08 Busa to and from work.

Riddle Me This:

Why does the bike sound like a diesel (ruff idle) for about 20 seconds before it is smooth (bike has 495 miles on it, brand new, oil is full and clear in color). If I try to twist the throttle slightly during that time period it will stall. I thought that fuel injection bikes start and run smooth instantly like some cars. This is my first fuel injected bike. How long should I be idling before I start to ride in 40F. I assume the bike is running real lean in those first few minutes. Is that good or bad or irrelavent?

Also, when you turn it on, what is that humm sound that lasts about 3 seconds while the instrument panel is cycling like something is aligning? Do busa's have a throttle body like on my Audi that aligns everytime you start the bike?

Finally, I notice that if the bike sits overnight and I start to ride, my very first pull on the front brake makes the front dip about an inch or two really fast like the front shocks have no pressure. Then after that initial braking, it functions fine. Whats that all about.

I have not gotten my first service yet which is suppose to be an oil change and full inspection. They told me 600 miles. Should I take it in now? Does this sound like anything to be concerned about?

Let me know your thoughts....... Thanks ??????

Mine does this also when I am in the mountains and start it on cold mornings. One other thing I would like to add is the steering damper oil is cold too, this makes my front end feel like it has a GPR on it set to 20. This makes for a very slow careful ride on a very twisty and dirty road down the hill. I puckered a few times until the damper warmed up too, be careful!

Just my two pennys, thanks for the ear.
Bubba

 

[Mr Bogus]

a word of caution if you have not figured it out yet... traction is pretty crappy at those temps... more than one guy has found himself looking at the pavement coming out of a corner before he even knew what happened...

 

[2busa]

Riddle Me This:

Why does the bike sound like a diesel (ruff idle) for about 20 seconds before it is smooth...

The engine note is in a cold state. That means the head is cold, has to heat up to expand the fuel.

If I try to twist the throttle slightly during that time period it will stall. I thought that fuel injection bikes start and run smooth instantly like some cars.

Again, this is a lot of condensed fuel droplets and not a mist when warm, where it would burn more efficiently and that engine note changes once it is warmed up and then sounds normal, right?

This is my first fuel injected bike. How long should I be idling before I start to ride in 40F. I assume the bike is running real lean in those first few minutes.

You can take off as soon as the oil pressure light goes out. Usually, I take off way before the starter motor stops spinning. In fact, when it's cold, I keep the starter moving so I do not stall on the clutch release. Then again, I putt slow down the street at about 1,900 rpm until the cylinder warms up. You do not want to haul butt, where the pistons expand faster than the barrel. That is a seized piston on the cylinder wall. So the trick is low rpm on the leave from the garage.

Also, when you turn it on, what is that humm sound that lasts about 3 seconds while the instrument panel is cycling like something is aligning? Do busa's have a throttle body like on my Audi that aligns everytime you start the bike?

That is where the ECU sets the, 'morning map' to a rich set. This also ratchets the air box to open with more air because the map is fat rich and the proportion is matched, so the vent or the throttle more or less is pushed open a touch. Also, the tach/speedo needles swing back to zero so as to be accurate on the key fob move.

Finally, I notice that if the bike sits overnight and I start to ride, my very first pull on the front brake makes the front dip about an inch or two really fast like the front shocks have no pressure. Then after that initial braking, it functions fine. Whats that all about.

I'm going to take a guess at this one. Sounds strange, but my pitch on this is the cold condensed air in the tube. Once the heat expands, it acts like a balloon where you are more bouncing the now hot air caused by friction to expand, which causes the forks [air] to expand, and have less of a dive when warm.

I have not gotten my first service yet which is suppose to be an oil change and full inspection. They told me 600 miles. Should I take it in now? Does this sound like anything to be concerned about?

Definitely! The break-in oil sort of flushes out the debris that was floating in threaded holes, unless they dip the post-machined cases in a sonic-bath to dislodge the machined materials during production. Either way, the break-in of the moving parts can sheer the minute material off rolling parts, get sucked up into the oil pump. The oil pump blades crush that debris, cause the pump to score. The debris is now floating in the bearings under pressure. The crank bearing inserts are soft aluminum and will embed that debris rather than score the parts. So to keep the engine clean from that contamination, you need to flush that oil out with the crap-o-la on a new bike so it lasts for a long time. Thus, the early dump of the oil.

 

[dadofthree]

Read your manual. There is an entire section devoted to cold starts on the Gen II.

 

[dadofthree]

The engine note is in a cold state. That means the head is cold, has to heat up to expand the fuel.

Again, this is a lot of condensed fuel droplets and not a mist when warm, where it would burn more efficiently and that engine note changes once it is warmed up and then sounds normal, right?

You can take off as soon as the oil pressure light goes out. Usually, I take off way before the starter motor stops spinning. In fact, when it's cold, I keep the starter moving so I do not stall on the clutch release. Then again, I putt slow down the street at about 1,900 rpm until the cylinder warms up. You do not want to haul butt, where the pistons expand faster than the barrel. That is a seized piston on the cylinder wall. So the trick is low rpm on the leave from the garage.

That is where the ECU sets the, 'morning map' to a rich set. This also ratchets the air box to open with more air because the map is fat rich and the proportion is matched, so the vent or the throttle more or less is pushed open a touch. Also, the tach/speedo needles swing back to zero so as to be accurate on the key fob move.

I'm going to take a guess at this one. Sounds strange, but my pitch on this is the cold condensed air in the tube. Once the heat expands, it acts like a balloon where you are more bouncing the now hot air caused by friction to expand, which causes the forks [air] to expand, and have less of a dive when warm.

Definitely! The break-in oil sort of flushes out the debris that was floating in threaded holes, unless they dip the post-machined cases in a sonic-bath to dislodge the machined materials during production. Either way, the break-in of the moving parts can sheer the minute material off rolling parts, get sucked up into the oil pump. The oil pump blades crush that debris, cause the pump to score. The debris is now floating in the bearings under pressure. The crank bearing inserts are soft aluminum and will embed that debris rather than score the parts. So to keep the engine clean from that contamination, you need to flush that oil out with the crap-o-la on a new bike so it lasts for a long time. Thus, the early dump of the oil.

 

[shawnski]

all of the above! save me some typing!

 

[m_ridgeway]

The engine note is in a cold state. That means the head is cold, has to heat up to expand the fuel.

Again, this is a lot of condensed fuel droplets and not a mist when warm, where it would burn more efficiently and that engine note changes once it is warmed up and then sounds normal, right?

You can take off as soon as the oil pressure light goes out. Usually, I take off way before the starter motor stops spinning. In fact, when it's cold, I keep the starter moving so I do not stall on the clutch release. Then again, I putt slow down the street at about 1,900 rpm until the cylinder warms up. You do not want to haul butt, where the pistons expand faster than the barrel. That is a seized piston on the cylinder wall. So the trick is low rpm on the leave from the garage.

That is where the ECU sets the, 'morning map' to a rich set. This also ratchets the air box to open with more air because the map is fat rich and the proportion is matched, so the vent or the throttle more or less is pushed open a touch. Also, the tach/speedo needles swing back to zero so as to be accurate on the key fob move.

I'm going to take a guess at this one. Sounds strange, but my pitch on this is the cold condensed air in the tube. Once the heat expands, it acts like a balloon where you are more bouncing the now hot air caused by friction to expand, which causes the forks [air] to expand, and have less of a dive when warm.

Definitely! The break-in oil sort of flushes out the debris that was floating in threaded holes, unless they dip the post-machined cases in a sonic-bath to dislodge the machined materials during production. Either way, the break-in of the moving parts can sheer the minute material off rolling parts, get sucked up into the oil pump. The oil pump blades crush that debris, cause the pump to score. The debris is now floating in the bearings under pressure. The crank bearing inserts are soft aluminum and will embed that debris rather than score the parts. So to keep the engine clean from that contamination, you need to flush that oil out with the crap-o-la on a new bike so it lasts for a long time. Thus, the early dump of the oil.

:wtf:

 

[StromBusa]

I let mine warm (idle) till the valves quit ticking loud. Prolly 3-4 min. Like the rough idle, reminds me of a radical cam on a big block.

 

[2busa]

Say I let the bike idle for 4 minutes out of 200 riding days. That means in 5 years owning the bike, I had to fork over to the oil warlords... Ah, forget it

 

[shadetree57]

I second that.

 

[BUBBA]

I second that.

Thirds here, now that funny.

 

[turbobusa2000]

Please let that be a joke.

 

[BUBBA]

Say I let the bike idle for 4 minutes out of 200 riding days. That means in 5 years owning the bike, I had to fork over to the oil warlords... Ah, forget it

I am starting to like this guy.

I think you forgot to mention that the catastrophic converter is always on unless you enable the MODE SWITCH to C.
I'm just saying

 

[BA BUSA]

Say I let the bike idle for 4 minutes out of 200 riding days. That means in 5 years owning the bike, I had to fork over to the oil warlords... Ah, forget it

Do YOU own a Gen2 Busa ??? ??? ???

That is what we are talking about

 

[m_ridgeway]

I am starting to like this guy.

I think you forgot to mention that the catastrophic converter is always on unless you enable the MODE SWITCH to C.
I'm just saying

no you gotta do the code....

ababcabb

 

[BUBBA]

no you gotta do the code....

ababcabb

I'm a liken you too!