Did oil change now it wont start...smh!!

rubbersidedown said:
@Krudd93
Rubb. Everybody else gave advice an helpful tips...but not you THE ONLY bobohead OUT THE BUNCH... WAS ALWAYS TOLD IF U DONT HAVE ANYTHING GOOD TO SAY THEN DONT SAY ANYTHING!!! THATS WHATS NEXT...SMH
______________________________________________________________

O well. if even one person reads my krap words and skips on the idea of cranking a motor over without oil then thats a good thing.
Every one else can be all nice...thats great. I didn't spend any time on the issue,my bad.
It wasn't the first time my approach to things was not liked on here in close to 20 years.Won't be the last. I've had people threaten to climb on planes and come and kill me.
I'm that popular. O well.
Rubb.
Click to expand...
Rubb its cool bro.. I have thick skin just had a bad day an yourpost was the last thing I saw.. as for 20 years I've spin the bikes during oil changes an never once had problem but this time is different..left key on.dont know that made a diff at all but it happened so there u go... now stop being an ass give advice!!!! 02 with 30000 on her an its my baby!! I got on with hard starting issues now this....
 
Ok soo.... nope still wont flip over... checked spark...got it.. checked main an ignition fuses and both are good... checked tos still mounted and I moved it an put it back still nothing... smh....battery, stator, rectifier all brand new... what's next to check??
 
Spark, air, fuel. All 3 must be present. If you have spark, and air, check the fuel

Maybe you already checked the basics but check again. Kill switch off, bike in neutral, clutch pulled in, ignition on, press starter button.
 
Going out on a loooooong limb here but spinning the engine over without oil in it will leave the pressure-fed timing chain tensioner dry and not tensioning the chain.... perhaps your 30,000 mile timing chain jumped a tooth or two during this needless process?

Seems all of the basic bases are covered so it might be time to dig a little deeper.
 
SSGT_B said:
Spark, air, fuel. All 3 must be present. If you have spark, and air, check the fuel

Maybe you already checked the basics but check again. Kill switch off, bike in neutral, clutch pulled in, ignition on, press starter button.
Click to expand...
To see if fuel is present could i pull the rail an try to start it?? New plugs are dry..an could just be me but seems like the starter is spinning faster ...
 
hayabuser said:
Going out on a loooooong limb here but spinning the engine over without oil in it will leave the pressure-fed timing chain tensioner dry and not tensioning the chain.... perhaps your 30,000 mile timing chain jumped a tooth or two during this needless process?

Seems all of the basic bases are covered so it might be time to dig a little deeper.
Click to expand...
'Buser,doesn't the tensioner have a mech that doesn't allow it to back out?Once its out,thata it until the next click out.
Krudd93 said:
New plugs...dont quite understand last part are they firing.. how would I go about that?
Click to expand...
Spark plug connected,then bottom must touch a good ground. It cant just be sitting there on its side.
Rubb.
 
Remove the airbox and spray throttle body cleaner in the throttle bodies. If it starts, you've got a fuel delivery problem.
 
SSGT_B said:
Spark, air, fuel. All 3 must be present. If you have spark, and air, check the fuel

Maybe you already checked the basics but check again. Kill switch off, bike in neutral, clutch pulled in, ignition on, press starter button.
Click to expand...
The nitty gritty is Spark/fuel/compression.
Easy to over look the obvious too. We have all done that.
Rubb.
 
Krudd93 said:
To see if fuel is present could i pull the rail an try to start it?? New plugs are dry..an could just be me but seems like the starter is spinning faster ...
Click to expand...
Ok, you say it’s turning over faster?
THIS IS THE CLUE IVE BEEN WAITING FOR!!!
That sounds like it’s bore washed and has little to no compression.... try squirting some engine oil down the spark plug holes and crank it over with no plugs in, to distribute the oil in the bored. This will reseal the compression rings again.
Then fit clean plugs, fit coils etc, try starting it now, should fire up and blow a lot of smoke.
Keep the revs up and warm it up til it starts to run properly.
 
Krudd93 said:
Brand new an left on the tender just to be safe... batteries cause alot of problems...fuel pump is priming like normal an checked to make sure line wasn't kinked..
Click to expand...
Had a customers bike do this and it was the battery under load. No start made noise & attempted once had me stumped for a while. New battery that was sold as fully charged but wasn't when checked. Bike had a draw; put on the charger & fired up like normal. I was happy & pissed at same time.
 
Nastee said:
Had a customers bike do this and it was the battery under load. No start made noise & attempted once had me stumped for a while. New battery that was sold as fully charged but wasn't when checked. Bike had a draw; put on the charger & fired up like normal. I was happy & pissed at same time.
Click to expand...
As a tech, one thing I have learned about batteries is to never Ass-ume anything re the state of charge, new or not.
I always check battery voltage resting, anything under 12.8v and it's under charged and may discharge rapidly as its drawing bulk current under load of cranking the engine.
The other thing to watch for is good, secure, and clean terminal connections, absolutely essential!
And don't forget the ground terminals, often overlooked.
If I sense that the cranking speed is a little slow I connect my jump pack to the battery terminals to assist it, and it almost always does the trick.
 
hayabuser said:
Yes, but this assumes that it's not failing. I told you I was going out on a loooooong limb. ;)
Click to expand...
A pirate's wooden leg...
Kiwi Rider said:
Ok, you say it’s turning over faster?
THIS IS THE CLUE IVE BEEN WAITING FOR!!!
That sounds like it’s bore washed and has little to no compression.... try squirting some engine oil down the spark plug holes and crank it over with no plugs in, to distribute the oil in the bored. This will reseal the compression rings again.
Then fit clean plugs, fit coils etc, try starting it now, should fire up and blow a lot of smoke.
Keep the revs up and warm it up til it starts to run properly.
Click to expand...
I thought of this to Greg as soon as he mentioned "spinning faster."
But I like yer idea and at this point its worth a try. Back to basics here I think,too many variables have been mentioned like "no spark." This thread is all over the map.
Hayabusa Wannabe said:
With the bike previously tilted forward, is there any mechanism like the crankcase breather that would throw oil in the air-box? Is that still clean?
Click to expand...
Thats a stretch HW,but ya never know with this deal. Oil would have to climb a vertical tube,leave the bottom of the airbox up into the manifolds.I always vent my CC into the enviroment. :D
Nastee said:
Had a customers bike do this and it was the battery under load. No start made noise & attempted once had me stumped for a while. New battery that was sold as fully charged but wasn't when checked. Bike had a draw; put on the charger & fired up like normal. I was happy & pissed at same time.
Click to expand...
Never hurts to check. Busa's can be finicky,and this batt has been cranking the motor alot. Some think 12 V's is enuff,but sometimes its not.
Rubb.
 
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