Did oil change now it wont start...smh!!

I thought of this to Greg as soon as he mentioned "spinning faster."
But I like yer idea and at this point its worth a try. Back to basics here I think,too many variables have been mentioned like "no spark." This thread is all over the map.
Never hurts to check. Busa's can be finicky,and this batt has been cranking the motor alot. Some think 12 V's is enuff,but sometimes its not.
Rubb.
Yes the battery absolutely must be strong, with loads of cca's on demand.
When cranking, the voltage must not drop below 10v, if it does, the ECU will not have enough voltage to process all the sensor inputs and all the necessary out puts, especially the coils and fuel pump signalsThe fuel pump itself drags a fair bit of current causing even more voltage drop if the battery is borderline healthy/unhealthy.
The method I use to overcome and rule out any possibility of this voltage drop happening is to use a small jump pack, fully charged.
I also have a volt meter connected permanently whilst attempting to start any bike that has starting issues.
I prioritize the electrical system as number one.
So many systems rely on the electrics being in tip top condition, and with fuel injection there is a big load on the battery and charging system all the time.
My 2c FWIW.
 
As a tech, one thing I have learned about batteries is to never Ass-ume anything re the state of charge, new or not.
I always check battery voltage resting, anything under 12.8v and it's under charged and may discharge rapidly as its drawing bulk current under load of cranking the engine.
The other thing to watch for is good, secure, and clean terminal connections, absolutely essential!
And don't forget the ground terminals, often overlooked.
If I sense that the cranking speed is a little slow I connect my jump pack to the battery terminals to assist it, and it almost always does the trick.
Good advice; thing was the bike ran before I performed all the work. Wouldn't start when complete with same battery so I suspected the new coils were amiss. Owner arrived with a new battery adamantly told it was fully charged by dealer & same thing no spark. I told him we would put it on charger after checking every fuse, & voltage at each point (came up low 12 volts or less).
 
Good advice; thing was the bike ran before I performed all the work. Wouldn't start when complete with same battery so I suspected the new coils were amiss. Owner arrived with a new battery adamantly told it was fully charged by dealer & same thing no spark. I told him we would put it on charger after checking every fuse, & voltage at each point (came up low 12 volts or less).
You have to love those people. "My guy told me"..... :laugh:
There is one better thou...
"I read it...on the internet."
1624009

Rubb.
 
New plugs...dont quite understand last part are they firing.. how would I go about that?
Did spark plugs have top screw on post installed or not? Make sure plug boot is on all the way on each just to be sure of connection.
 
Ok so after 2.5 months of not being able to touch I finally did... got it to kick for few secs but then back off again...just won't stay running...
 
Wow, this thread and months later a bike which still sits.

Reading all the advice given here, keep it simple, the only basic thing which seems missing, following all the advice and your replies, is verifying that you are getting fuel into the cylinders during the induction stroke.

Fuel pressure at the injectors?
Injector screens are not clogged?
If the above checks out, have you verified the signal at the injectors?
 
Back
Top