I don't have personal experience with the HMF system. Theoretically speaking, "X" tubes should be optimal. HMF has an excellent reputation among Busa owners. Dual mufflers simply weigh more. If appearance is paramount, go for what your eyes like. If you're a performance purist, go for a power-proven, lightweight 4-2-1 system.
Exhaust Myths vs Reality
- Thread starter WarBaby
- Start date
A properly designed 4-2 system is theoretically capable of making as much peak power as a 4-1 or 4-2-1. Exhaust design is largely about the kind of power you want. Peak power is not the only, nor even primary, goal of most aftermarket exhaust designers. The nature of the power band is MUCH MORE important for virtually all high performance purposes and different designs produce different powerband characteristics. Some people "poo-poo" the differences between exhaust systems but, to put it bluntly, they probably DO NOT UNDERSTAND as much about it as they think they do. This stuff is hard science, not speculation.
Read it all twice and my eyes (and grey matter) are a lil bleary....
Thank you for the excellent read! I have a question about noise specifically and wondered if one of the pipe/can kits you rep are close to stock noise. I like stealth power mods and am looking for (at some point in the future) more ponies but not more noise. My tintinnus from power tools and rock n roll is bad enough...
Another question on a differing front:
Do you have any knowledge (or anyone else here for that matter) on active noise cancellation? Kinda like this only speakers on the outside to cover the noise made internally...
Again thank you for the excellent read, I'll go over it again until more sinks in...
Thank you for the excellent read! I have a question about noise specifically and wondered if one of the pipe/can kits you rep are close to stock noise. I like stealth power mods and am looking for (at some point in the future) more ponies but not more noise. My tintinnus from power tools and rock n roll is bad enough...
Another question on a differing front:
Do you have any knowledge (or anyone else here for that matter) on active noise cancellation? Kinda like this only speakers on the outside to cover the noise made internally...
Again thank you for the excellent read, I'll go over it again until more sinks in...
That would be nearly impossible (with the exception being in a tightly controlled research environment) on a motorcycle, at least externally.
You could potentially do this inside the helmet, with an exterior microphone feeding speakers in the helmet a sound that's 180-degrees out-of-phase, but it's much cheaper to use earplugs
Well yeah, think cockpit noise reduction systems and helmets that do the same. I already wear earplugs when I ride but this doesnt reduce or obviate the sound radiated by my bike.That would be nearly impossible (with the exception being in a tightly controlled research environment) on a motorcycle, at least externally.
You could potentially do this inside the helmet, with an exterior microphone feeding speakers in the helmet a sound that's 180-degrees out-of-phase, but it's much cheaper to use earplugs
Akkk! I've got a D&D. At least a single can has made it easier to get into my tight parking space.
Some cars have active noise cancellation that works in conjunction with the stereo, so maybe the speaker in the helmet will work great too.
I've noticed that all of the Power Commander download maps take out quite a bit of fuel even with full race systems. I'm sure that at some RPMs you need to remove fuel, but I have a hard time believing that this should be true at peak HP. I've heard that inertial dynos will indicate that you need less fuel, not more since an acceleration curve in the ECU fattens the mixture. In one post, a guy from Brock said that he rarely adds more than 5% at WOT. I'm not sure how you can see an increase of 10% even with reduced pumping losses.
Any comments from the gallery about adding or subtracting fuel?
Some cars have active noise cancellation that works in conjunction with the stereo, so maybe the speaker in the helmet will work great too.
I've noticed that all of the Power Commander download maps take out quite a bit of fuel even with full race systems. I'm sure that at some RPMs you need to remove fuel, but I have a hard time believing that this should be true at peak HP. I've heard that inertial dynos will indicate that you need less fuel, not more since an acceleration curve in the ECU fattens the mixture. In one post, a guy from Brock said that he rarely adds more than 5% at WOT. I'm not sure how you can see an increase of 10% even with reduced pumping losses.
Any comments from the gallery about adding or subtracting fuel?
I'm not sure how you can see an increase of 10% even with reduced pumping losses.[/QUOTE]
A 10% increase (say...15 HP) is very near the upper limit of available power gain with full exhaust, PAIR mod, air box mod, and proper mapping on an internally-stock Busa engine on gasoline. I've seen a lot of Busa dyno charts that range from 10 HP to 16/17 HP gains with the average being in the 12 - 14 HP area with these mods. Pumping losses are considerable with the factory exhaust. Otherwise, such gains would not be so readily possible. The factory exhaust is the result of several "compromises"... the visual desirability of (heavy) twin exhausts, EPA mandates, and cost being primary among them.
A 10% increase (say...15 HP) is very near the upper limit of available power gain with full exhaust, PAIR mod, air box mod, and proper mapping on an internally-stock Busa engine on gasoline. I've seen a lot of Busa dyno charts that range from 10 HP to 16/17 HP gains with the average being in the 12 - 14 HP area with these mods. Pumping losses are considerable with the factory exhaust. Otherwise, such gains would not be so readily possible. The factory exhaust is the result of several "compromises"... the visual desirability of (heavy) twin exhausts, EPA mandates, and cost being primary among them.
Yes its stock air, have 16 front sprocket, lowering links, running 100 octane unleaded gas. Kinda new to this, so what is mapping? I tried to just go around the block without the slip on muffler and it sure seems to be more throttle responsive. Just wondering if it will make any difference in the 1/4 mile ET's.
Thanks for any advice
Thanks for any advice
The 100 Octane gas is not making more power for you nor saving your engine from detonation/pre-ignition. 87 works well for most of us with internally stock engines. 89 octane is reasonable during hot weather. No need for anything higher.
"Mapping" is the electronic tuning data that determines the air/fuel mixtures used by your fuel injection system under various operating conditions (like carb jetting except it is done electronically). To extract all available power from a full exhaust system, you should have your bike "remapped". Most of us use Dynojet Power Commanders for revised tuning (remapping). Do a search for "Power Commander" - "PC3R" - "PCIIIR" - "PCIII USB" and you should find a ton of info about that.
In your circumstance, I'm not sure what removal of your muffler will do for you except create more tuning problems. I wouldn't do it without remapping.
<!--EDIT|WarBaby
Reason for Edit: None given...|1124304977 -->
"Mapping" is the electronic tuning data that determines the air/fuel mixtures used by your fuel injection system under various operating conditions (like carb jetting except it is done electronically). To extract all available power from a full exhaust system, you should have your bike "remapped". Most of us use Dynojet Power Commanders for revised tuning (remapping). Do a search for "Power Commander" - "PC3R" - "PCIIIR" - "PCIII USB" and you should find a ton of info about that.
In your circumstance, I'm not sure what removal of your muffler will do for you except create more tuning problems. I wouldn't do it without remapping.
<!--EDIT|WarBaby
Reason for Edit: None given...|1124304977 -->
awesome post. but what is a bde/hindle system?[/QUOTE]
BDE =
FYI, I copied/pasted the following from the BDE web site:
The BDE StreetSmart system is a joint effort between Brock Davidson Enterprises and Hindle Manufacturing of Canada. This partnership combines Hindle's renowned handcrafted quality with Davidson's 20 of years Sportbike drag racing experience. Davidson personally designed and hand-tuned the system specifically for the Hayabusa street bike owner who frequents the drag strip or is particularly interested in arm-straightening acceleration from a dead stop or slow roll and wants to make sure they have the fastest bike out there.[/QUOTE]
BDE =
FYI, I copied/pasted the following from the BDE web site:
The BDE StreetSmart system is a joint effort between Brock Davidson Enterprises and Hindle Manufacturing of Canada. This partnership combines Hindle's renowned handcrafted quality with Davidson's 20 of years Sportbike drag racing experience. Davidson personally designed and hand-tuned the system specifically for the Hayabusa street bike owner who frequents the drag strip or is particularly interested in arm-straightening acceleration from a dead stop or slow roll and wants to make sure they have the fastest bike out there.[/QUOTE]
huntn4heatrs
Registered
BDE =
FYI, I copied/pasted the following from the BDE web site:
The BDE StreetSmart system is a joint effort between Brock Davidson Enterprises and Hindle Manufacturing of Canada. This partnership combines Hindle's renowned handcrafted quality with Davidson's 20 of years Sportbike drag racing experience. Davidson personally designed and hand-tuned the system specifically for the Hayabusa street bike owner who frequents the drag strip or is particularly interested in arm-straightening acceleration from a dead stop or slow roll and wants to make sure they have the fastest bike out there.[/QUOTE][/QUOTE]
Tom,
Did you go out of business??? I hope not.
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