First gear issues


I’ve seen this place posted here before on the boards with good recommendations. No affiliation or experience, but with their 3 day turnaround I would’ve tried them out had I not wanted additional stuff (big output shaft, auto, etc)
Thanks for the suggestion. I'm thinking I should just send it in and have all gears cut. I'm going to give them a call tomorrow and see if I can send the shift forks in to have them inspect them also. I don't know enough to even identify if there is an issue with them. I can remove bolts all day, but that's where my skills end lol.
 
You are not wasting any time! Good job and hope you can pinpoint the issue and get resolved and back together. I’ve never seen the insides of one of these engines besides pics and videos, so I’m no help trying to identify the problem.
When I talked to Smither's he seemed far less than excited to take on the job and it would be 3-4 weeks before he would even have time to look at it. Made my decision to tackle it myself much easier. Let's hope I can get it back together when the time comes!

All the gears even the ones that are cut from factory get a more aggressive cut. Measure the pads on the shift forks with calipers, there’s a spec for that in your book
Thanks for the heads up. I will find the specs and get to measuring.
 
Trying to determine which are the large and small shift forks. From my previous picture I'm assuming the two forks on the lower shaft are large and the single fork on the top shaft is a small fork?
 
Looks like the spec is 4.8-4.9mm. My forks are coming in at 4.5-4.7.
If they are not too pricey I would change them all. I saw a guy once tear into his motor (YouTube video) due to losing 6th gear and the fork wear was the problem and wasn’t moving the gear enough to engage the dogs between the two. I remember him emphasizing how important it was to make sure the “C” clips in the end of the shafts were seated properly in their grooves so gears would stay in their position and also making sure the small holes on some of the bearings lined up with the holes on the shaft for proper oil flow. I watched a lot of those videos when I was looking for the answer to my false neutral between 5th and 6th gear, but turned out that Suzuki went from 3 dogs on the gen1 to 5 on the gen2 and makes it harder for the gears to engage when you pin the throttle. @c10 took the time to make some calls and get some expert’s insight on it and shared with us.
 
If they are not too pricey I would change them all. I saw a guy once tear into his motor (YouTube video) due to losing 6th gear and the fork wear was the problem and wasn’t moving the gear enough to engage the dogs between the two. I remember him emphasizing how important it was to make sure the “C” clips in the end of the shafts were seated properly in their grooves so gears would stay in their position and also making sure the small holes on some of the bearings lined up with the holes on the shaft for proper oil flow. I watched a lot of those videos when I was looking for the answer to my false neutral between 5th and 6th gear, but turned out that Suzuki went from 3 dogs on the gen1 to 5 on the gen2 and makes it harder for the gears to engage when you pin the throttle. @c10 took the time to make some calls and get some expert’s insight on it and shared with us.
I'm going to tear into it further today and get the forks out so I can measure the actual clearance between the fork and gears. I'm thinking about replacing them all with billet forks to hopefully help prevent an issue in the future, but my budget is starting to run thin. It's $108 each for stock forks, or $175 each for billet.
 
I'm going to tear into it further today and get the forks out so I can measure the actual clearance between the fork and gears. I'm thinking about replacing them all with billet forks to hopefully help prevent an issue in the future, but my budget is starting to run thin. It's $108 each for stock forks, or $175 each for billet.
Didn’t expect them to be that much, but Suzuki oem parts seem to be on the high side. Sounds like you are taking the right approach by checking tolerances and just replacing what’s needed to save some $$$
 
Spoke to M/T Performance today. Going to ship the transmission off to them to have the whole thing undercut. After pulling it apart completely I think it is safe to say the dogs were the issue.

I used cheap calipers last night when I measured the forks. They were not zero'd correctly. I resolved that and measured again. The small and one large fork are in spec, but one large fork is not in spec. You can see in one of the pictures it has grooves in the side of it from the gear. I ordered one large fork along with a trac king clutch plate kit, PAIR valve block off plates, and a Cometic gasket kit.
U don’t need billet forks. I’d do the shift shafts tho


Now u know which one u need two of
Are you talking about the fork shafts or the actual foot shifter shaft? Why do you suggest I replace this though?
 
Sent of the transmission today, he said they currently have a 7-10 day turnaround time.

I spent a few hours cleaning all the gasket surfaces and wiped down most the parts and organized them all in totes and labeled everything. Found 4 small bolts I'm not positive where they came from so that will be an adventure figuring out where those came from!

Still need to clean off some of the chain lube goo that gets slung all over the shifter area. Not real sure the best way to go about that without getting water inside besides just taking forever to get it all cleaned up.
 
Still need to clean off some of the chain lube goo that gets slung all over the shifter area. Not real sure the best way to go about that without getting water inside besides just taking forever to get it all cleaned up.

Is that lube waxy (paraffin)? I wonder if vegetable oil will dissolve it, and if that even helps you, having to clean another oil off.
 
Sent of the transmission today, he said they currently have a 7-10 day turnaround time.

I spent a few hours cleaning all the gasket surfaces and wiped down most the parts and organized them all in totes and labeled everything. Found 4 small bolts I'm not positive where they came from so that will be an adventure figuring out where those came from!

Still need to clean off some of the chain lube goo that gets slung all over the shifter area. Not real sure the best way to go about that without getting water inside besides just taking forever to get it all cleaned up.
Try using a small scraper to get the thick stuff off then use kerosene and a firm paint brush...that should remove it.
 
Is that lube waxy (paraffin)? I wonder if vegetable oil will dissolve it, and if that even helps you, having to clean another oil off.
It's more like tar. Very sticky so all dirt and dust just piles up on it.
Try using a small scraper to get the thick stuff off then use kerosene and a firm paint brush...that should remove it.
The scraping part was as far as I made it. Sounds like I have a couple weeks before the transmission will be back so plenty of time.
 
Hi. Did you figure out what clutch kit yet? I have over $2,000.00 in my transmission. The bike can make over 800HP. I use the stock clutch kit and DME does too.
I went with the Trac King clutch kit. It was the same price as the stock kit so I assumed it was an upgrade. Maybe I was wrong. If so at least I don't have to pull the engine again to swap it out. Thanks for the heads up.
 
Back
Top