First gear issues

Just filled it up with coolant and was letting it get up to temp to burn off any excess oil and stuff I may have got on the exhaust. Was cleaning up tools and putting them away when I hear a pop and running water...

Luckily it was just that I forgot to tighten the hose clamp on that one radiator hose. Back to the parts store I go for more coolant...

IMG_4620[1].JPG
 
Just took it for a spin around the block and to fill it up with gas. The trans feels soooo good now. Nice and firm shifts AND I have 6 gears now!

Thanks for all the help and suggestions you guys have provided along the way. When I started this journey I didn't even know where the transmission was in a motorcycle, or any clue how they worked.

Following the service manual was pretty easy and straight forward, except for the part of getting the engine back into the bike. I didn't take as much time on that part as I did the rest because I was getting excited to see it complete again. Luckily my biggest mistake was not tightening a clamp on one of the coolant hoses. That mistake cost me an extra $20 but hey, I'll gladly accept that!

Now it's time to save some money to start making this thing my own. I think first on the list will be exhaust so I can get rid of this ugly beat up header and then I can tackle the tuning. After I have it running top notch again I will replace all the fairings and get the tank painted. May also black out or replace some more of the chrome accessories also. Actually just remembered I need a rear tire soon, so that will actually be the first thing I replace.

First things first though, I need a nap!
 
Just took it for a spin around the block and to fill it up with gas. The trans feels soooo good now. Nice and firm shifts AND I have 6 gears now!

Thanks for all the help and suggestions you guys have provided along the way. When I started this journey I didn't even know where the transmission was in a motorcycle, or any clue how they worked.

Following the service manual was pretty easy and straight forward, except for the part of getting the engine back into the bike. I didn't take as much time on that part as I did the rest because I was getting excited to see it complete again. Luckily my biggest mistake was not tightening a clamp on one of the coolant hoses. That mistake cost me an extra $20 but hey, I'll gladly accept that!

Now it's time to save some money to start making this thing my own. I think first on the list will be exhaust so I can get rid of this ugly beat up header and then I can tackle the tuning. After I have it running top notch again I will replace all the fairings and get the tank painted. May also black out or replace some more of the chrome accessories also. Actually just remembered I need a rear tire soon, so that will actually be the first thing I replace.

First things first though, I need a nap!
Awesome feeling, isn’t it?!!!! Congratlutations on accomplishing that task! Make sure you watch the temps closely, because sometimes it requires some leaning of the bike to burp all the air out of the cooling system. Unless, you burped it already.
 
Awesome feeling, isn’t it?!!!! Congratlutations on accomplishing that task! Make sure you watch the temps closely, because sometimes it requires some leaning of the bike to burp all the air out of the cooling system. Unless, you burped it already.
Thanks brother, I'm so damn excited to get it done in one shot. The service manual is really good though, if you can follow directions, it's not a bad job at all. The most stressful part for me was dropping the engine out of the frame and bolting it back up. It took me quite a while to get the bolts lined up using a transmission jack working alone. I ended up putting a jack under the front tire so I could get the frame up high enough to slide the engine under. Was a bit tricky lifting the front of the bike and trying to kick the jack under the tire, lol.

I rode it around for about 15 minutes and let it idle for another 5. I did lean the bike around as I was filling it, but only did a half ass job. The temps were fine though, and I even had temp issues before I tore the bike apart. I plan to burp it one more time after it cools down just to be sure but was happy the temps were better than before the tear down already.
 
Put in about 75 miles today and it felt great! It's in the mid 90's here today and it did get a little warmer than I would like while sitting at lights. Will be looking into the second fan mod sometime soon. Also need to pick up a new helmet, the liner in this RF-1000 is completely shot so it flops around on my head a bit. I think I will have to order the RF-1400 but damn are they expensive!

IMG_4622[1].JPG
 
The local Suzuki dealer(under new owners/management) gave me a deal on an RF1400 yesterday(new gf loves to ride, it's hers).
Cheapest I found it was $529+ tax and shipping online...she paid $473 after tax.
These guys have my business.
Next to my matte black RF1200(about 2 yrs old).
I asked about a photocramatic/transitions shield for the 1400(I have one on my 1200 and it's excellent), they said the North American Shoei distributor is still out of stock until who knows when, but $209 when they could get one(my 1200 shield cost the same).
The 1200 has the shield opening tab on the left, vs the 1400 with it centered with a push button release/lock, and the 1200's upper rear vent can be closed, the shape of the shell is different too, but the overall differences in the 2 are minor.
The 1400 was in stock, the gloss black she Wanted, and a great price...so the 1400 it is! lol

As for your Busa, much respect for a great job, especially having never done it before.
I know it feels good riding it, and a little better knowing just what you have, and how you got it.

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The local Suzuki dealer(under new owners/management) gave me a deal on an RF1400 yesterday(new gf loves to ride, it's hers).
Cheapest I found it was $529+ tax and shipping online...she paid $473 after tax.
These guys have my business.
Next to my matte black RF1200(about 2 yrs old).
I asked about a photocramatic/transitions shield for the 1400(I have one on my 1200 and it's excellent), they said the North American Shoei distributor is still out of stock until who knows when, but $209 when they could get one(my 1200 shield cost the same).
The 1200 has the shield opening tab on the left, vs the 1400 with it centered with a push button release/lock, and the 1200's upper rear vent can be closed, the shape of the shell is different too, but the overall differences in the 2 are minor.
The 1400 was in stock, the gloss black she Wanted, and a great price...so the 1400 it is! lol

As for your Busa, much respect for a great job, especially having never done it before.
I know it feels good riding it, and a little better knowing just what you have, and how you got it.

View attachment 1652249
I somehow missed your message, but good info on the helmets. I actually just received a RF1400 today with the faust paint but it is too small and has to go back. My RF1000 is a large and it while it fit okay, I thought maybe a medium would fit better and move around less but it hurts to put it on because the shell is too small. I picked it up for $530 on sale and now can't find any on sale anymore of course. So I ended up paying full price for a large. I can't deal with the 1000 not having any padding on the top anymore, it's just not safe.

Thanks for the kind words about the bike. It does feel very good now knowing no matter what happens to it, I can fix it myself. Well minus a broken frame or something wild, but you get what I mean, lol.
 
I decided to rebuild the front calipers tonight because they were dragging a little more than I thought was normal. On the first caliper I wasn't sure of the best way to get the pistons out. I used an air compressor to get the first larger piston out, which was fairly easy. Those things come flying out with some serious force though! I will get to more on that later...

But getting the second larger piston out was a bit more tricky. I was able to get it out using a trick I saw on Delboy's garage on youtube. Stuck a small socket down in the piston and used a ratchet with an extension to twist and pull it out. Worked fairly well without too much effort. However the small piston, that thing made me want to throw the caliper in the trash! It took a lot of time and effort to get it out using the socket and ratchet trick. I spent probably 45 minutes on it trying not to destroy things but it finally came out.

The second caliper I got a little smarter. I put a towel between the pistons while it was still together and hit it with the air compressor to get them all moving. One small piston was stuck and wouldn't budge at all though using this method so I split the caliper not wanting to use the socket and ratchet method again. So, I piled up some rags on the floor, put a piece of wood one the caliper and stood on it. When the first piston popped out it lifted me up a bit. I wasn't expecting one piston to have that much force, but that is probably just from my lack of thinking about how strong a hydraulic system is even with air. I'm 6'0 150lbs so I just put both feet on it and went to town with the air compressor and they all finally popped out enough to touch the wood. Then I was able to get them all out fairly easy and took waaay less time!

I meant to take more pics, but ended up putting it all back together before I remembered. Oops!

Also discovered both my rotors are warped so the saga will continue soon...

ATTB7516[1].JPG
 
I decided to rebuild the front calipers tonight because they were dragging a little more than I thought was normal. On the first caliper I wasn't sure of the best way to get the pistons out. I used an air compressor to get the first larger piston out, which was fairly easy. Those things come flying out with some serious force though! I will get to more on that later...

But getting the second larger piston out was a bit more tricky. I was able to get it out using a trick I saw on Delboy's garage on youtube. Stuck a small socket down in the piston and used a ratchet with an extension to twist and pull it out. Worked fairly well without too much effort. However the small piston, that thing made me want to throw the caliper in the trash! It took a lot of time and effort to get it out using the socket and ratchet trick. I spent probably 45 minutes on it trying not to destroy things but it finally came out.

The second caliper I got a little smarter. I put a towel between the pistons while it was still together and hit it with the air compressor to get them all moving. One small piston was stuck and wouldn't budge at all though using this method so I split the caliper not wanting to use the socket and ratchet method again. So, I piled up some rags on the floor, put a piece of wood one the caliper and stood on it. When the first piston popped out it lifted me up a bit. I wasn't expecting one piston to have that much force, but that is probably just from my lack of thinking about how strong a hydraulic system is even with air. I'm 6'0 150lbs so I just put both feet on it and went to town with the air compressor and they all finally popped out enough to touch the wood. Then I was able to get them all out fairly easy and took waaay less time!

I meant to take more pics, but ended up putting it all back together before I remembered. Oops!

Also discovered both my rotors are warped so the saga will continue soon...

View attachment 1652350
Looks like you didn’t waste anytime tackling other areas of the bike. Hope they work better now that they are rebuilt. I’ve seen people convert to radial calipers via adapter brackets. If you decide to go that route, I have a set of gen2 low mileage calipers you can have.
 
Looks like you didn’t waste anytime tackling other areas of the bike. Hope they work better now that they are rebuilt. I’ve seen people convert to radial calipers via adapter brackets. If you decide to go that route, I have a set of gen2 low mileage calipers you can have.
I appreciate the offer and I will keep that in mind. I always love a good project if that wasn't obvious by now. I did a little digging and it looks like something I would be into, but for now I'm hoping to have the new rotors this weekend so I can get it back together and put some more miles on it.

The more I ride it, I think I'm going to remove the stretch. Buy a stock length chain so I can swap back and forth if I ever want to. It may stay for this season though, I've spent way more money than I originally planned after buying the new helmet and front rotors. I'm single with no children so I have a hard time not just buying everything I want at once!
 
I decided to rebuild the front calipers tonight because they were dragging a little more than I thought was normal. On the first caliper I wasn't sure of the best way to get the pistons out. I used an air compressor to get the first larger piston out, which was fairly easy. Those things come flying out with some serious force though! I will get to more on that later...

But getting the second larger piston out was a bit more tricky. I was able to get it out using a trick I saw on Delboy's garage on youtube. Stuck a small socket down in the piston and used a ratchet with an extension to twist and pull it out. Worked fairly well without too much effort. However the small piston, that thing made me want to throw the caliper in the trash! It took a lot of time and effort to get it out using the socket and ratchet trick. I spent probably 45 minutes on it trying not to destroy things but it finally came out.

The second caliper I got a little smarter. I put a towel between the pistons while it was still together and hit it with the air compressor to get them all moving. One small piston was stuck and wouldn't budge at all though using this method so I split the caliper not wanting to use the socket and ratchet method again. So, I piled up some rags on the floor, put a piece of wood one the caliper and stood on it. When the first piston popped out it lifted me up a bit. I wasn't expecting one piston to have that much force, but that is probably just from my lack of thinking about how strong a hydraulic system is even with air. I'm 6'0 150lbs so I just put both feet on it and went to town with the air compressor and they all finally popped out enough to touch the wood. Then I was able to get them all out fairly easy and took waaay less time!

I meant to take more pics, but ended up putting it all back together before I remembered. Oops!

Also discovered both my rotors are warped so the saga will continue soon...

View attachment 1652350


I use Reverse Needle-Nose pliers, that open instead of close when you squeeze the handles, so they bite the inside of the pistons and they pull right out.
Makes the job alot easier.
A good time for stainless steel lines(if you don't already have them).
And a carbon ceramic pad will stop you sooner(EBC HH 'Extreme Pro' street pads or Veshra equivalent).
 
I use Reverse Needle-Nose pliers, that open instead of close when you squeeze the handles, so they bite the inside of the pistons and they pull right out.
Makes the job alot easier.
A good time for stainless steel lines(if you don't already have them).
And a carbon ceramic pad will stop you sooner(EBC HH 'Extreme Pro' street pads or Veshra equivalent).
I have some reverse pliers also, they were waay too seized in there for those to work. I can tell there was uneven wear on the pads so I'm not sure all pistons were even moving. I want to get some stainless lines, but I am totally tapped on money for now. I have stainless on the rear but not the front. Already put HH pads on because the brakes barely worked when I got the bike. The pads were packed with grease.
A couple of the pistons were REALLY stuck, so I'm curious if those would have been able to get enough bite to pull them. I have never seen those before.
 
I'm working on bleeding the brakes in between doing actual work today. But these calipers only have one bleed screw on them, and it's on the same side of the caliper as the feed line. How in the world are you suppose to bleed the second half of the caliper? I'm a bit confused how the air is supposed to get out of that side.

My Cadillac has similar calipers, but they have bleed screws on both halves of the caliper so it's fairly simple to bleed them.
 
Now ppl have bleeder screws and mity vacs and stuff but long ago I would bleed em off the bike with a spare rotor if u starting 100% fresh. Easier to make the air bubbles rise to the top if the caliper is above the master. Then when u done, re assemble, zip tie the brake to the bar over night, next day perfect brakes.
 
I'm waiting for the rotors to show up so I have some time before I will want it back together, but I did the initial bleed and was able to get them to build pressure fairly easy using the traditional method and using a hand pump vacuum bleeder. I saw some people suggest to tie the lever pulled so I have it sitting that way for now. Will bleed them again later and probably again tomorrow and see what I get.

I thought about getting a syringe and filling the caliper that way before I put them together, but decided against it due to not knowing where exactly to find one that would work. If I can't get them bled I will probably just bench bleed them like @Dnyce suggested.
 
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