Flashing the 08 / ECU Editing software for GEN II Busas

Ok, this is probably a question that might have been asked/answered, but I cant find it. Or I am blind and dumb??? If you want your ECU flashed just for the speed restriction feature, and you have/had your bike recently dyno tuned, will it screw anything up with the tune and require a retuning on the dyno?
 
N2O Progressive kicks in in first gear, and is all the way in by middle of second. Perhaps this is why 2nd is rich. Third is still stink-rich at 11.9 A/F. I tune for fourth gear at 12.6, and it stays at 12.6 through 5th gear at 165 mph. Any thoughts?


bottle pressure possibly

the good news is that petrik i think is working on an ecu progressive nos setup this winter
 
Ok, this is probably a question that might have been asked/answered, but I cant find it. Or I am blind and dumb??? If you want your ECU flashed just for the speed restriction feature, and you have/had your bike recently dyno tuned, will it screw anything up with the tune and require a retuning on the dyno?

dyno tuned with what? ECU or something else?

if fueling was tuned by some other means than ECU, then reflashing for restriction etc removal wouldn't be any reason to retune.
 
bottle pressure possibly

the good news is that petrik i think is working on an ecu progressive nos setup this winter

I data log bottle pressure, and its pretty steady at 570 - 600 PSI. The system is a regulated low pressure system.

A programable progressive setup for controlling fuel would be fabulous. But I'm still hoping for gear compensation:please:
 
dyno tuned with what? ECU or something else?

if fueling was tuned by some other means than ECU, then reflashing for restriction etc removal wouldn't be any reason to retune.

Ok, thanks, I wasn't real clear on the in depth operation and workins of the ecu flasher. I didn't know if you could just get in there and pinpoint what you wanted to change. Thanks!
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wow why so low? Never heard of anyone running 600 psi of bottle pressure on purpose

Yup, and it works great. When I began logging bottle pressure 3 years ago I found out how quickly pressure drops in a 2.5 lb bottle with a large shot. I experimented with many different solutions, but eventually came back to the simple solution of regulating down to a very low pressure that is unaffected by temperatures ranging from 55 F to 110F. I just run much larger N2O jets to compensate, but pressure at the solenoid never fluctuates until the bottle drops below 600 psi. Working with bottle heaters and torches is innacurate and a major headache. Sorry for off topic.
 
yep fueling stays stock unless you mess with it

now if the bike was tuned with ecu for fueling, you wouldn't want to start back with a stock map and just change 1 thing obviously, you would want to load the latest tune you sent to it, then go from there
 
Draco just to jump off topic again for a sec :whistle:......... and as you say you have tried different variations and it works for you so certianly not questioning.
Given that 900 to 950 psi is ideal pressure for max power potential from N2O ....... I gather your actually using more N2O to achieve the same power ? Hence also the bigger jets ? Does power delivery have the same "feel" as when running 900 / 950 Psi or does it tend to come in with a little less bite ? :beerchug:
Also just thinking out loud a little here, should imagine the time it takes for N2O delivery would be slightly longer ? Are you running engine cam timing with more aggressive ramping (less Ex overlap and more Ex duration) or standard grind/timing ?
Sorry for the questions just very interested as Greg said never heard of running such low bottle pressure, but if it's working and works well ............. great stuff.
 
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The greater the pressure differential between the bottle and the intake the greater the cooling effect of the N2O on the incoming charge. You may be gaining consistancy but you're leaving a small amount of performance on the table.
 
I have also put a few of these together if you just want to be able to hold throttle wide open, and as soon as you put pressure on the shift lever, the bike falls into the next gear. I can buy whatever switch you prefer (this one is from danosperformance), or could wire a dynojet one etc

DSC_1394.jpg
 
Ordered Gregs Harness for a customer as he wanted to flash and operate his shifter thru the ECU .................... it plugged straight in :thumbsup: EVEN :thumbsup:to his existing Shifter connectors :bowdown: Set up shift parameters thru software then flashed ECU and the result was a customer in my workshop that looked like this :cheerleader:
:beerchug:
 
I have also put a few of these together if you just want to be able to hold throttle wide open, and as soon as you put pressure on the shift lever, the bike falls into the next gear. I can buy whatever switch you prefer (this one is from danosperformance), or could wire a dynojet one etc

DSC_1394.jpg

Don't see this on your web site. How much for one that fit's a GenII?
 
They are silly expensive

It about 200 or so for me to order a switch and have it shipped to me, then I was charging 20 or so to wire it up, the shift rod if u don't wanna fab your own I think was another 21, plus 6 bux or so to ship to you, easily turns into close to 250 with the custom shift rod, getting close to air shifter prices, not sure they must make the switches outta gold lol
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They are silly expensive

It about 200 or so for me to order a switch and have it shipped to me, then I was charging 20 or so to wire it up, the shift rod if u don't wanna fab your own I think was another 21, plus 6 bux or so to ship to you, easily turns into close to 250 with the custom shift rod, getting close to air shifter prices, not sure they must make the switches outta gold lol
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Wow, that is a bit steep. I would still rather do something along thse lines because I prefer not to mess with a bottle and all the other stuff.

Any chance you could see if you could get a group buy and buy more to get the price down a little? I'm interested and would be willing to pre-pay in order to secure a deal.
 
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i had asked them about that (danosperformance), buying even 10 at a time only save it seemed like 20 bucks per switch, and not worth it to me to spend like $2K in switches knowing i wont sell many etc.

I know MPS sells a little brake switch or something they use for like 10 or 15 bucks, you have to fab a bracket to hold it, and no idea if it works well or not, thought about trying it, but figured if i want one ill just step up, but most likely ill do a cycle-tek co2 kit, they are awesome.

If you can find a better deal on a switch setup for sure let me know, i have looked at those, dynojet, cordonia, those are even more money than these.

Ill wire up whatever you guys want even if you wannna get one and ship it to me etc.

Greg
 
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