Flashing the 08 / ECU Editing software for GEN II Busas

This is not to start a technical argument or "all dynos are different blah blah blah", so please don't bother posting it in this thread. This is just me sharing my findings with the ECU Editor on the dyno.

I found out last week a Gen II under full throttle will tolerate 36 degrees of throttle advance with no issues running premium fuel. The colors are where I adjusted the timing. I made a few minor adjustments in the cruising ranges resulting in a 45 MPG freeway average in 6th with hard luggage attached. There was no ping on the dyno, and it was smooth under full throttle. Here is the fuel and ignition maps I ran on the dyno last Friday with 92 octane, no cat, K&N filter and a 190/55 rear tire. The dyno printout was essentially with no smoothing, resulting in a twitchy output. From the look I have some work to do on my fuel tables.

:beerchug:

thinking of leaving the engine in my new 09 busa stock for awhile and trying to get the most out of it I can on stock engine. So I want to try modifying the ignition tables next time I am out to see what it does.
I run 87 octane pump now. thinking of putting some premium pump in (91 octane non ethanol) and trying your timing map. I am looking at my timing map right now. sorry I am not the best with computers or I would post the timing map like you did, but in the newest version of ecu editor I pulled it up and it says you have to use ignition unify and the map in their has the timing pulled back a bit at the 9600, and 10000rpm 90 and 100% throttle cells to 31 degrees timing. it is 32 degrees below this rpm and 34 degrees above. your map is at 36 degrees at these point so I am adding 5 degrees of timing in these cells if I use your map. just wondering if your original map was higher then mine and wondering why my map has the timing pulled at those rpm's. I look forward to trying it out. :thumbsup:
last weekend I started with a map from some one else on my 09 busa with gsxr 1000 short stacks, bmc race, and brocks alien head. first pass was a 9.62 at 145.72. 114.51 1/8th. this is at firebirds 2800' elevation. it was 12.4-12.5 a/f on first pass. I got it all tuned in to 13.1-13.2 a/f and the 1/8th mph came up to consistant high 118's. 1/4 mph was consistantly high 145's with one 146.3mph run. so it slowly brought up the 1/8th mph 4.5mph throught the day tuning it in, but the 1/4mph stayed the same. if I gain 4.5mph in the 1/8th I would think it would come up atleast that much in the 1/4.
My chain was good at the begining of the day and was kinking up bad by the end of the day. so I don't know if this affected it. putting a new chain on and see what happens. if the 1/4 mph does not come up I am going to try useing the ram air compensation to fatten it up in just 4th and 5th gear and see if it brings up the mph on the back half.
ended the day with a 9.44 at 142 with a 118.89 1/8th. the wideband commander was showing the rpm's alot lower then I was shifting on the gauge. so I ran it in 3rd untill it actually hit the rev limiter just to see where it hit on the gauge is the reason for the slower 1/4mph on that pass. I can't remember exact numbers, but the stock gauge is around 500 rpm higher then actual rpm near redline.
 
just looking at the ignition tables some more and my ignition map is 28 degrees at 7200 and 7600rpm 90 and 100% tps. it is 32 degrees all around these cells, but 28 in those 4 cells. just wondering why it dips their and also concerned that 8 degrees is alot of timing to add.
 
that makes sense since the bazzaz uses both injectors, might use there map with my set up added to the stock one and get a place to start can fine tune from there. found taht the suzuki dealer in sarasotte might give it a try to. they have only messed with pc
 
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So what more do you think is available from the 'Bus if the Air Fuel ratios are perfect? The horsepower and torque graphs are mighty impressive to these old eyes. Is running at anything more ( more air) than 13.5 to 1 worth the risk on a street bike? Thanks.

Not to rain on the parade, but the bike isn't tuned yet. Too lean at 7.5k. Too rich over 8k. Stink rich (<12.5k) at 10k. The graph is too focused on Power, and doesn't have any resolution on A/F. If you blow up A/F it will be more apparent. I'm not trying to be rude, but I wouldn't be happy spending money on a job only 1/2 done.
 
So what more do you think is available from the 'Bus if the Air Fuel ratios are perfect? The horsepower and torque graphs are mighty impressive to these old eyes. Is running at anything more ( more air) than 13.5 to 1 worth the risk on a street bike? Thanks.

A good dyno tune should be between 13.1 and 13.4. Any lower than 13.1 and power starts to drop a bit. Any higher than 13.4 and you might start to detonate depending on the fuel you have. You can squeeze a tiny bit more power out at 13.5 or so, but again not good for the typical street bike. Sure a well tuned bike may make a couple of extra HP, but its also smoother and easier to ride. If your motor is swinging through transitions of 14.4 to 12, it will result in surges. Back to topic. Flashing...:beerchug:
 
If you flash the ecu and have the restrictors off, when you go into the advanced setting it ask about dynomode and normal in 5th gear is this how you know it has taken the limiters off
 
what change does it make if you have a full exh and turn of the o2 sensor and pair valve. my bike does not smell as rich as it did before
 
no I understand that. but does the o2 and pair off make a diff. when you have a full system, oh by the way the new video helped,was a lot clearer for us ecu dummys LOL
 
I have found if you leave the O2 in and on you could add 300% more fuel and it will still surge at cruise because it will be at 14.7-15.2:1
turn that lame epa thing OFF
 
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