Front End Bouncing

I'm going to check the wheel bearings again today. I'll check the tire beads, the rotation is right. The fork tubes should be straight. I'll check the height again.
 
The forks are not leaking. A have the bike at stock suspension settings. A question I have is i weight 180. Might the settings be too stiff for me?
 
Even if you had the preload set to stiff, I don't think it would make it bounce like that all the time.
 
twotonevert said:
I am going to agree with it being in the forks. Oil levels or settings.
Click to expand...
I agree. I did seals and oil last year on my bike. And the one constant in my research was making sure all oil was drained prior to refill. It's not as simple as just turning them upside down. Assuming this was a bike shop that did the work, I would think they are familiar with the methods. Do you k ow what type of oil was used Benjamin?
 
I had a leaky seal and when I replaced it I went to a 10wt oil. Since then I have exactly the same problem. Nothing else was changed but the seal and oil. I will be checking oil levels and switch back to a lighter weight oil when I tear them down. Will be later in the year so don't wait on me for results!
 
I don't know what oil weight was used but I will call tomorrow.

Tac- you're saying you have the same exact bouncing problem I do but with 10wt?
 
BusaBenny said:
When im accelerating hard I don't notice it as much if at all. Let's say I'm accelerating but not too aggressive it's still there. When I let off or coast it's definitely there. At constant speed it's there.
Click to expand...

It could be a chain/sprocket issue. Sounds like you could tell if your chain is bad or not (tight spots, worn or damaged teeth). An overly tight chain would accentuate any problems. Maybe loosen the chain and see if any change?
 
Unfortunately in ct it's raining right now so I can't really check the chain. I did quickly measure out 21 pins on the chain and got 274 mm. That's with no tension on the chain and the stock slack. Tomorrow I will put the bike on the rear stand and measure it out how the manual says to. The sprockets don't look bad. The chain has no tight spots. I cleaned and lined it yesterday. Tomorrow I plan on looking over the whole chain. I might even say the heck with it and put the new one on.
 
BusaBenny said:
All speeds. And if I'm sitting on it, holding the brakes and I push down it will go down and come back up. No bounce. Not a 100% sure that's what you mean. I do a video but idk how to upload it.
Click to expand...
When it comes back up does it bounce back or does it come back a little slower than it goes down. you should able to feel the slowed rebound if not right it bounces back up like a free spring.
 
Mathew- it's hard to tell but I'd say it goes down and comes like a free spring. It comes up as fast as it goes down.
 
It is 10wt, but I cant verify the fluid levels. Did both fork seals at the same time.
New tire machine balanced and double checked,new bearings, new sprocket and chain and steering stem bearings are good. Did not have the bouncing before replacing the fork seal but did immediately after. I will have to check the fluid level and possibly go down to a 5wt or 7wt and see if it stops.
I have tried adjusting compression and rebound settings with minimal difference.
 
I know you said you went to a good shop, but it sounds like they didn't get something right when they repacked the shocks. Regardless if it didn't do it before you took the bike to them then it should be on them to fix it.
 
tac said:
I had a leaky seal and when I replaced it I went to a 10wt oil. Since then I have exactly the same problem. Nothing else was changed but the seal and oil. I will be checking oil levels and switch back to a lighter weight oil when I tear them down. Will be later in the year so don't wait on me for results!
Click to expand...
Tac. 10wt gives a lot more fluid resistance than the normal 5wt, making the shock much stiffer which would explain a little bounce. 7wt might be a good compromise.
 
Benjamin, also ask them how much oil was used. 532 ml is required on a dry fork.


Telboy2000 said:
don't just go by the W rating...few oils of same W value actually work the same.
10w racetech isn't the same as 10w ohlins or Silkolene.
10w Silkolene is like 20w compared to racetech's....shop used 10w Silkolene on my Gen 1 after fork seals and it was rock hard...barely moved at all so diluted it down with some 2.5w to just above a 5w rate.
you can use these as a rough guide... Marketing, Public Relations & Press Release Communications by MediaTurbo
Comparative Oil Weights Table - Transmoto
Click to expand...
 
Agree, instead of messing with it bring it back and tell them your symptoms. They should make it right for free.
 
Maybe the previous owner was a low-rider? Seriously, my first thought was maybe a flat spot on the tire?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

luvridin
Front tire is slipping
2
Replies
21
Views
2,175
Charlesbusa
Charlesbusa
S
Front end bounce
Replies
9
Views
1,618
Revolution
Revolution
nabusa
Head shake and bumpy ride
Replies
8
Views
1,737
dadofthree
dadofthree
tegbusa
Is this normal?
Replies
14
Views
996
BusaWizard
BusaWizard
S
Need some help with front suspension/steering
Replies
1
Views
1,018
Vspec
Vspec
Back
Top