Front End Bouncing

[sixpack577]

My 10wt front end busa has a much stiffer feel from stock even dialed in soft. Hitting a bump the 10wt shocks are not as forgiving and the road feels a little more "bumpy." But this bike is doing it even on smooth surfaces so its something else.

I agree.
I have ridden on 10w, and I put 7w in my gen2. Definately a noticeable difference.
I have no more ideas without being able to ride it.

 

[sixpack577]

My 10wt front end busa has a much stiffer feel from stock even dialed in soft. Hitting a bump the 10wt shocks are not as forgiving and the road feels a little more "bumpy." But this bike is doing it even on smooth surfaces so its something else.

I agree.
I have ridden on 10w, and I put 7w in my gen2. Definately a noticeable difference.
I have no more ideas without being able to ride it.

 

[BusaBenny]

So just a small update. I changed the front and rear sprocket and chain. I have a brand new driven 530 chain with -1 in the front. I set the sag with it on and off the stands per the manual. The bike is smoother but the bounce is still there. In fact it feels like it's getting worse. It definitely feels like it's the front rim. I did notice though that at 60 mph and up it disappears. Not 100 % but a lot of it disappears. A friend thinks that maybe the front rim is bent. Like there is a flat spot and it's being skipped over at higher speeds. So for now I'm going to have another local shop juts out the wheels on there balancer and see what they says. Basically a second opinion.

 

[BusaBenny]

If any of you are near winsted ct 06098 I'd be more than willing to let you ride it. I fee that it may be coming to that point.

 

[bigoltool]

Do you have any way to check the run-out of the front rim and/or the front rotors. Harbor Freight dial indicator might be a worthwhile investment. But the dealer should have noticed any of this when they mounted your tire. Have you verified the paint spot on the tire is aligned with the Valve Stem?

From Metzeler-
OTHER MOUNTING TIPS01 Check for directional arrow on tire. If present, mount tire so that arrow points in
direction of rotation.
02 Mount tire on rim with the valve stem beside the red or yellow dot. If red or yellow
dot is not on the tire (indicating the lightest point) the tire may be positioned at any
point on the rim.

 

[dadofthree]

My 2008 has bounced for 9 years and nearly 90 K miles.

 

[TallTom]

Make sure it's not on backwards.

 

[David Offor]

If your rear shock is shot, it could be squating down and unloading the front, which could cause your front end to go light, which could cause bounce (I'm reaching lol), also maybe tight needle roller bearings in the swing arm mounts, at the frame, could cause on oscillation, similar to a tank slap? Been reading the comments, it sounded like an easy one to diagnose at first.

 

[Getn off]

If I was closer u could use my wheel to swap out and test. Anyone close by that can do this? It would be an easy check and eliminate it.
Troy

 

[sixpack577]

If the rim is bent that bad, you should be able to spin it and see it.

 

[BusaBenny]

I FIGURED IT OUT !!!!!!!

First I just want to say thank you guys for all your help and sticking with me through the whole process. The .org is definitely one of the best forums I've been on.

Warped front left rotor. I had a friend help me out. I told him what I had checked and he gave me some ideas on what to try. One of the ideas was use jack stands to stabilize my front and rear stands. Allowing no free play side to side and making the bike more stability. Once I did that I rechecked everything and noticed that there was very very slight warp in the rotor. I still rechecked everything and everything else was fine. So I removed the left rotor from the wheel. Went on a small test ride using only the rear brake and it rode smooth as silk. I can't believe testing the calipers and pushing the pistons and pads back didn't show this to me. I also can't believe I didn't feel anything in the brake lever when I would apply pressure. I went back and cleaned the rotor button things (idk the right name). There was dirt in there, but not as much as I thought there would be. When I put the rotor back on it was very warped. Like the dirt was holding it back. I rechecked it and I didn't even need the straight edge to see it was bad. So now it's time to see about new front rotors. Thanks again everyone

 

[David Offor]

That's pretty random, strange it didn't show up on the brake lever.
Useful information for sure.
Glad you got to the bottom of it.

 

[Getn off]

Awesome! Love when annoying stuff like this gets figured out! Looks like you def owe ur buddy a beer or three!
But I am with sixpack...a good shop should have seen a wobble while balancing. In fact, u may want to have it rebalanced at another shop after you install new rotors.
Troy

 

[dadofthree]

Glad you got it. I had a slightly bent rotor one time and would lose front brakes because of it. Could look through the body work and see it on the road.

 

[BusaBenny]

That's what I was trying to do while ridin was look through the fairing but I didn't really see it.

 

[TallTom]

My chain, and many others do that in the video. There is no weight on the suspension and no drag on the drivetrain. They bounce like that. I wouldn't give that a thought.

 

[13013]

Sweet news! I know it refreshing after chasing your tail.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Here's an idea, whenever refitting the front wheel to the forks, the top and lower yoke fork clamps need to be loosened to facilitate correct axle alignment between the left and right fork.
If the forks are fitted and then secured in the yokes BEFORE wheel and axle fitment, one fork leg may be lower than the other even by a few millimeters. When the wheel is fitted and the axle pushed through and threaded, the effect is that one fork is loaded more than the other, the spring in one fork is more compressed than the other.
You should leave the forks loose in their clamps and use the axle to align everything.
THEN secure the clamp bolts to the correct torque, then torque the axle.
Just another thing to perform in the process of elimination.
I'm not saying this is causing your problem, but it's good practice to align everything you can on the chassis.
Take the bike back to the shop that did the work and ask them to sort it, that's providing the problem only occurred AFTER they did the work.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Here's an idea, whenever refitting the front wheel to the forks, the top and lower yoke fork clamps need to be loosened to facilitate correct axle alignment between the left and right fork.
If the forks are fitted and then secured in the yokes BEFORE wheel and axle fitment, one fork leg may be lower than the other even by a few millimeters. When the wheel is fitted and the axle pushed through and threaded, the effect is that one fork is loaded more than the other, the spring in one fork is more compressed than the other.
You should leave the forks loose in their clamps and use the axle to align everything.
THEN secure the clamp bolts to the correct torque, then torque the axle.
Just another thing to perform in the process of elimination.
I'm not saying this is causing your problem, but it's good practice to align everything you can on the chassis.
Take the bike back to the shop that did the work and ask them to sort it, that's providing the problem only occurred AFTER they did the work.

Ha! Silly me, I hadn't noticed I was still on the first page of this thread when I replied lol

 

[BusaBenny]

That's ok kiwi. Happens to the best of us. But I like your method you aligning the front end. When the new rotors show up I'll do it that way.