pIC 2
Fuel Economy on my new truck
- Thread starter thrasherfox
- Start date
Pic 3
hmm .. hate to say it ..Ron ...but, more air = lean running eng.. lean running eng = more preformance.. more preformance = more gas .. lol ..sort of self defeating .. in a round about way .. but as ( 1 ) leans out a eng ..the rpm's will come on "easier" n the rpm's usually..will go higher.. so its up to you .. n what you want..
Pic 4
Pic 5
Pic 6 (last one for now)
Hard to tell but the back window is tinted and has a sliding window in it.
Hard to tell but the back window is tinted and has a sliding window in it.
Yeah, I thought it would show up in the pic but since I am so short and the truck is so tall (fricken love the hieght lol) it does not show it.
But it is the hard cover that locks to the tail gate and sides. folds up lin sections towards the front and real easy to remove.
I love my new truck.. think I will sleep in it tonight
LOL.....you aint right!Yeah, I thought it would show up in the pic but since I am so short and the truck is so tall (fricken love the hieght lol) it does not show it.
But it is the hard cover that locks to the tail gate and sides. folds up lin sections towards the front and real easy to remove.
I love my new truck.. think I will sleep in it tonight
Nice truck! I think I'm gonna investigate getting a new one. I'm Lovin' the hood!
That is what I have been told so far by the following people
1) My dealer I bought the truck from
2) a mechanic at the auto parts store
3) The mechanic at the muffler place where I had the Flow master exhaust put on.
I never primed any of them, just asked how to get better fuel economy and each of them said the K&N filter and a flow master exhaust.
And each individually stated I should see between 2 to 4 mpg better fuel economy
My mechanic tomorrow is going to check and see if there is anything he can do to the engine (replacing a chip etc) to get better fuel eco.
I don't care if I lose any hp. the fricken thing has so much balls that when I have floored it I get pushed back in my seat harder than I do when I floor my camaro. I am totally blown away by the amount of power and acceleration this thing has..
I have test drove a lot of trucks over the last week and the only thing that seemed to have the balls this thing has was a Chevy 2500HD with a turbo diesel and an Allison transmission.
Plus the basic warranty is 3 years 36,000, but the drive train has a manufactures warranty of 7 years / 80,000 miles.
I purchased and extended warranty through my credit union so I now have a 6 year 100,000 bumper to bumper warranty AND the manufactures 7 year.
Think I am going to be happy with it.
Ron,
You can love your truck, just don't LOVE your truck. Nice man, congratz!
You can love your truck, just don't LOVE your truck. Nice man, congratz!
Thanks..
And uhh too late about loving my truck but not LOOOOVING my truck... And it was soooo gooooooood....
Pull the nasty fan off the front of the motor and replace it with a good flexlite dual electric fan. Frees up approx 14 HP and makes a diff on the fuel mileage too. Did it on my F150 and it free revs alot easier and pulls alot harder on the HWY, i saw about a 2mpg diff at the tanks... You prob already have one electric fan under the hood on the drivers side, i think it is the AC condenser or an oil cooler, i don't own one of those trucks anymore and can't remember right off. A good fan will cost a little over $300 and an afternoon of work but is worth it for the performance and fuel economy boost. It removes alot of the rotational weight on the crankshaft pulley and thus takes less power to move the truck and less gas to get where you are going...
You should also consider what all these parts are going to cost vs. the added fuel mileage, unless you are driving alot more than the average person it will take a long time to just break even... Just my .02
You should also consider what all these parts are going to cost vs. the added fuel mileage, unless you are driving alot more than the average person it will take a long time to just break even... Just my .02
TruWrecks
Banned
Congrats on the truck TFox.Congrats on the truck TFox
I always thought that more airflow=more gas to burnCourse I could be wrong...
This is correct. The more air you cram into the intake, the more gas you will burn. Why? Because you have a computer in your truck that monitors the exhaust oxygen content, so it can make corrections. When you push more air into the engine, the fuel/air mixture is effectively leaned out. The O2 sensor will detect more oxygen in the exhaust. The ECU will increase the amount of fuel being injected to bring the air/fuel mixture back to the correct (factory set) ratio.
You'll have more power available, but you'll burn more gas also. One way you can increase your milage is to get an ECU programmer that lets you set different modes like economy for everyday driving (like that will ever happen after owning a Busa), or performance (for more realistic driving when not riding the Busa). You could also invest in a supercharger, or a turbo, but these will also require retuning the ECU to keep things running correctly. You'll also need to keep your foot out of it, or the gas will burn a really big hole in your wallet!
So remember class: The increasing the amount of air going into the engine = the amount of fuel increased to keep the mixture ratio the same, unless you tell the ECU to change the ratio.
You can do as another member has suggested, like replacing your fan with an electric one. That won't really buy you much mileage on the road, but it will help with stop and go traffic. When you driving at about 30 MPH, and higher, you fan won't be doing anything but free-wheeling in the draft. All vehicles made in the last 20 to 25 years, that have mechanical fans, have been made with fan clutches the spin pretty easily when they are kept cool by the airflow through the radiator. The fan clutch tightens the pressure on the drive shaft when it gets hot. That causes the engine to push the fan harder, resulting on increased drag on the engine, and burning more fuel to move the same distance. But as I said already, if your driving at about 30 or higher there is enough airflow through the radiator to keep the engine happy, so the fan doesn't do much to help or hurt your mileage at those speeds.
Electric fans don't put any load directly on the engine, but they do pull alot of current, causing the alternator to put a heavier load on the engine. Have you ever noticed that your Busa idle drops slightly when the fan first turns on? Car do the same thing. When the alternator isn't delivering enough current to keep the system voltage between 13.8 and 14.4 VDC, the voltage regulator increases the field voltage to the alternator to produce more current output. The increased field voltage increases the magnetic field in the alternator, causing an increased magnetic resistance. This makes it harder to turn the armature of the alternator, putting more drag on the engine. Not as much drag as the mechanical fan, but neither fan is running when your moving fast enough to keep the engine fairly cool.
Okay, enough of the electronic theory. I'm giving myself flashbacks of school.
Doug
<!--EDIT|TruWrecks
Reason for Edit: None given...|1126251987 -->
Projekt
Registered
The electric fan is a good idea, making a difference in horsepower and efficiency. However your stock clutch fan does not start to put drag on the engine unless you operate a lot in the city in hot weather. If you are doing mostly highway driving you won't benefit much from it due to the ram cooling effect on the radiator thus a disengaged clutch and no drag. I only felt and heard the fan actually working in 100+degree weather in Las Vegas and Mexico.
If any Custom tune engine management chips are available this may be the next good step towards added fuel economy. Go to a performance shop with a Dyno (dynamometer). This is because when the OEM engine management systems are designed they are engineered to run a rich mixture (runs cooler) for longevity of internal engine components (pistons, rings, valves, valve seats). The engine can actually tolerate a leaner mixture, 11:1 (air:fuel) is rich and 14:1 (air:fuel) is considered a leaner mixture. It is a simple concept, stock settings run more fuel for longevity even though the engine will run just as long with a custom fuel map. A competent performance specialist should be able to explain the process even further. Basically what is done is that an add on chip or replacement computer is tuned to shorten the fuel injector pulse width thus delivering less fuel under the given throttle and engine conditions. Your air meter, air charge temperature sensor, coolant temperature sensor, knock sensor, oxygen sensor, throttle position sensor and choice other sensors all contribute to managing fuel delivery for optimum performance.
It may a bit pricey but will be well worth the investment.
Exhaust and intake modifications all contribute to the removal of air restrictions allowing the cylinders to fill easier so that the engine is unloaded therefore requiring less fuel to spin. The engine will only take as much air as it needs and if it is entering more easily it will not have a negative effect on fuel economy at all, only positive. Once you do the exhaust and Intake mods, try disconnecting the battery to reset the computer and then give some time to develop optimum efficiency as it relearns your driving habits. You will not get the best fuel economy until the engine is at proper operating temperature and is out of open loop operation (warm-up cycle).
Try the Custom Tune chip if you still desire better fuel economy.
If any Custom tune engine management chips are available this may be the next good step towards added fuel economy. Go to a performance shop with a Dyno (dynamometer). This is because when the OEM engine management systems are designed they are engineered to run a rich mixture (runs cooler) for longevity of internal engine components (pistons, rings, valves, valve seats). The engine can actually tolerate a leaner mixture, 11:1 (air:fuel) is rich and 14:1 (air:fuel) is considered a leaner mixture. It is a simple concept, stock settings run more fuel for longevity even though the engine will run just as long with a custom fuel map. A competent performance specialist should be able to explain the process even further. Basically what is done is that an add on chip or replacement computer is tuned to shorten the fuel injector pulse width thus delivering less fuel under the given throttle and engine conditions. Your air meter, air charge temperature sensor, coolant temperature sensor, knock sensor, oxygen sensor, throttle position sensor and choice other sensors all contribute to managing fuel delivery for optimum performance.
It may a bit pricey but will be well worth the investment.
Exhaust and intake modifications all contribute to the removal of air restrictions allowing the cylinders to fill easier so that the engine is unloaded therefore requiring less fuel to spin. The engine will only take as much air as it needs and if it is entering more easily it will not have a negative effect on fuel economy at all, only positive. Once you do the exhaust and Intake mods, try disconnecting the battery to reset the computer and then give some time to develop optimum efficiency as it relearns your driving habits. You will not get the best fuel economy until the engine is at proper operating temperature and is out of open loop operation (warm-up cycle).
Try the Custom Tune chip if you still desire better fuel economy.
Projekt
Registered
The concept of more air in equals more fuel used, i.e, less fuel economy only applies to forced induction such as exhaust driven surperchargers (turbo-chargers), and belt-driven superchargers. This is because they stick more air (and therefore the commeasurate amount of fuel) into the cylinders than they are able to draw in through conventional atmospheric induction.
Removing air restrictions only allows the internal combustion engine (air pump) to spin (fill with air) more easily and therefore lose less fuel energy in the act of spinning (filling the cylinders with air). Thus leading to more power reaching the drivetrain. The engine management system DOES NOT add more fuel just because it senses the air coming in easier, instead it simply maintains the factory set air:fuel ratio. That is it.
Removing air restrictions only allows the internal combustion engine (air pump) to spin (fill with air) more easily and therefore lose less fuel energy in the act of spinning (filling the cylinders with air). Thus leading to more power reaching the drivetrain. The engine management system DOES NOT add more fuel just because it senses the air coming in easier, instead it simply maintains the factory set air:fuel ratio. That is it.
its a Hemi you're never gonna get good fuel mileage
As far as trying to get more fuel mileage out of it If they make underpulleys' that will really help, My 91 GT Mustang went from getting 21-22 on the hwy to getting 26-28 and thats at 80 mph. congrats on the truck Thrash
<!--EDIT|onerabidshark
Reason for Edit: None given...|1126270351 -->
<!--EDIT|onerabidshark
Reason for Edit: None given...|1126270351 -->
- keep tire pressure at or 4 above vehicle rating
- lower weight oil in engine
- loose weight [you and junk in vehicle like that SILLY spare tire
]
- put a wing on the back... okay, maybe not
- trade it in for a Yugo Truck [see pic]
don't fret gas prices. you're gonna pay it anyway. like most of us, you probably spend more on coffee in a week than you do the increase in gas price
<!--EDIT|WWJD
Reason for Edit: None given...|1126271557 -->
- lower weight oil in engine
- loose weight [you and junk in vehicle like that SILLY spare tire
]- put a wing on the back... okay, maybe not
- trade it in for a Yugo Truck [see pic]
don't fret gas prices. you're gonna pay it anyway. like most of us, you probably spend more on coffee in a week than you do the increase in gas price
<!--EDIT|WWJD
Reason for Edit: None given...|1126271557 -->
Similar threads
