Gen 3 - misfiring/bogging down after mod+tune

c5busa

c5busa

Registered
Got a 2023 Gen 3. Put on Yoshimura 4-2-1 exhaust, velocity stacks, high flow air filter, and pair block off kit. Then a shop did dyno tuning with a Woolich harness/tune.
The bike can’t take off quick/launch. If you give it too much throttle coming off the line, it stutters/bogs down right at 3100-3200 rpm and looses the acceleration. You have to ease off the throttle, let it smooth out, then ease back in past that rpm range.
The shop is still working on the bike, playing with mapping and timing, but figured I’d ask here to see if anyone else has had similar issues and managed to resolve?
 
:popcorn: Sounds like they're not doing something right. It's in the tune. That's just my opinion, but if the pair block-offs are airtight, and there's no unmetered air entering into the equation it's in the tune.

Even Moore's basic flash service is pretty dependable.
 
Spudley said:
:popcorn: Sounds like they're not doing something right. It's in the tune. That's just my opinion, but if the pair block-offs are airtight, and there's no unmetered air entering into the equation it's in the tune.

Even Moore's basic flash service is pretty dependable.
Click to expand...
Thank you. Will post an update once I hear back from the shop. They did two Gen 1 Busa’s for me years ago and those two rode phenomenal. I regret letting go of my 05’ honestly.
 
Good luck on your Solutions. The right tech will set all the other's straight.

I have corrected a lot of very minor, connective issues whether it's pneumatic, electrical, fuel related, in a very short period of time in past encounters with serviced Busas. I hope you can find someone that has your model's experience. The type of common modifications you have made to this bike are not grounds for bad running characteristics.
 
Although your bike will run much better if it's tuned correctly, with a modifications that you made it should have ran good enough to ride without a tune at all. With the stock map you could at least prove that nothing is disconnected or broken.

I'm saying that they should not have messed with timing, and the fuel changes should have been small.

The stock fuel map would have been the place start. I probably wouldn't add more than 10% more fuel on the first try. Then I would test it by at least riding or putting on the dyno.

After you get the tuning close then you start playing with timing.
 
Busa Quick said:
Although your bike will run much better if it's tuned correctly, with a modifications that you made it should have ran good enough to ride without a tune at all. With the stock map you could at least prove that nothing is disconnected or broken.

I'm saying that they should not have messed with timing, and the fuel changes should have been small.

The stock fuel map would have been the place start. I probably wouldn't add more than 10% more fuel on the first try. Then I would test it by at least riding or putting on the dyno.

After you get the tuning close then you start playing with timing.
Click to expand...
I told him to to reset the feul map to 0 and the problem still occur
dunno what to do else :(
The bike ran fine before the tune
The tuner is saying it's a problem in the bike itself which I think is not the case
He did 15% fuel at first on rpm 500 to 6000 the bike ran rich I thought it is fine then things started to get worst until I had hard sputtering on slow riding then I told him to remove the 15% and nothing changed the bike starts good every time and within 10 km slow ride the sputtering start
Note: changed the spark plug after removing the fuel map thinking it is the problem.
 
If you added fuel then running bad and took fuel away still running bad you should replace the spark plugs because they may be gas fouled. A spark plug cannot fire well under cylinder pressure if the plug tip has black soot.
 
I found the problem
It was bad fuel map with 15% increase but when we fixed it there was another problem causing the bike to go rich in fuel
it was the O2 sensor still reading no matter what
The tuner thought it is disabled and told me it was disabled so what I did was disconnecting the sensor zip tied it under the fairing and now it is reading fresh air and the engine thinks there is no fuel burning

Now on woolich the sensor disabled but when you disconnect it the bike goes crazy

All I need to know
Is this a gen 3 issue and you have to live with it or there is a way do disconnect it and tune the bike correctly
 
Dustin02 said:
The sensors have to be disabled in the Woolich software. Your tuner hasn't done this correctly.
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yes I think this is the case
But now I want to prove it is not my bike refusing to disable the sensor and it's tuner mistake
Anyone here running his bike with the sensor physically disconnected from the exhaust with ECU flash ? If yes, Is your bike running fine?
 
Really appreciate your help guys

I orderd brock's 2 to 1 O2 sensor adapter just to make sure the bike is in good condition and I'm ganna take it to another tuner

ganna keep the thread updated
 
I'd recommend you call or email 2 wheel dyno works. They'll get you sorted. You shouldn't need to leave the O2 sensors plugged in also these bike need the AIS block off plates installed. Just "command off" doesn't work on the Gen3 apparently for the AIS system the same as it did on my FZ-10
 
Good idea ganna try to contact them

I need to connect the o2 sensor for now to drive to another tuner he is 300 km away

I bought brocks block off plate
Not sure if disconnecting the pair valve will ruin something
Cruising180 said:
I'd recommend you call or email 2 wheel dyno works. They'll get you sorted. You shouldn't need to leave the O2 sensors plugged in also these bike need the AIS block off plates installed. Just "command off" doesn't work on the Gen3 apparently for the AIS system the same as it did on my FZ-10
Click to expand...
 
Le0Fle said:
"There is a way do disconnect it and tune the bike correctly".
Click to expand...
Well said. Send the two into one sensor wiring back. Put in the pair valve block off plates. Disconnect the wiring once you get there at the new tuner, or leave it connected and just disable it during tuning.

Don't ever go back to the first guy ever again.
 
Last edited:
Same problem here..Chris asked me to send him a video of when it happens but haven't been around to do it and it's not every time that happens..seems more like on hard acceleration on mine.
Gonna check the PAIR block off plates and might add gaskets just to see.
 
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