Gen2 HID install

Hi Guys,
Were any of you forced to remove the HID lights and put factory bulbs back on? I just had the same problem happen to me this morning. I have no gauges, clock, or odomoeter. I had the HID kit installed for the last two weeks. I do have not experienced the clock reset. I will try to remove the covers and get the igniters relocated further away from the gauge cluster.
 
Hi Guys,
Were any of you forced to remove the HID lights and put factory bulbs back on? I just had the same problem happen to me this morning. I have no gauges, clock, or odomoeter. I had the HID kit installed for the last two weeks. I do have not experienced the clock reset. I will try to remove the covers and get the igniters relocated further away from the gauge cluster.

Mine does a reset once in a blue moon. I'm not concerned about it at all.. However I'm not using a DDM kit. I'm use AGT Germany kit bought from Ebay.

The benefits of safety outweigh the clock reset issue.

so I will never go back to stock bulbs.
 
I intentionally put my ignitors and ballasts as far away from the gauge cluster as possible...
 
The reset is not caused by interference but rather the power drain. If your battery has been in the cold and you start the xenons you might cause a reset.
 
It is not a power drain issues whatsoever. even by holding the starter switch before turning your key does not allow the ballasts to power, therefore no power drain. clock resets itself randomly and its always after the keyturn. I have left my bike for 2 weeks, jump on, hold starter switch, flick key, hold clutch, bike starts, clock is fine.

Gotta be interference. And its just not the clock that resets, it resets the RPM shift light as well.
I wonder if anyone has installed magnetic filters on the lines going to the bulb??
 
Been running a McCulloch low beam with ignitor and ballast on the right ram tube with a delay timer for over 2 years and 10,000 miles with no problems at all.
 
Not to sound dumb but why do we have to order 2 kits. It appears that one kit comes with 2 ballast. Are both ballast for low beam only or something?

Was looking at the 35 watt 6k for both low and high but not sure what to order. And do we need an adapter cable or HID harness?

Please help!!
 
hartmanap, because the single kit with two ballasts only supports one bulb type. So your bike would have to have two H7's or two H9's.

btw - I found the answer to my previous question. The H5 is for 1st gen.
 
Gen 2's are h7 (low beam) and h9 (high beam) and gen1's are h7 (low beam) and h5 (high beam)! So whatever h.i.d kit you get make sure you know what you need!

The single HID kit from DDM doesn't come with two ballasts.
It comes with one igniter and one ballast.
This is why you need two separate kits .
 
Not to sound dumb but why do we have to order 2 kits. It appears that one kit comes with 2 ballast. Are both ballast for low beam only or something?

Was looking at the 35 watt 6k for both low and high but not sure what to order. And do we need an adapter cable or HID harness?

Please help!!


No adapter or hid cable needed as kit comes with everything you need.
 
Anybody order the DDM kit recently? My buddy wants to put some HID's on his 14 and asked me where I got mine. I gave him the ddm website and he said he couldn't find them on their site. I looked and I can't find them either.

I went and found the confirmation e-mail they sent me when I ordered mine and did a search with the part number in that e-mail and nothing was found.

Anybody know anything about this?
 
That is strange? From my phone I can't find them either ?
They still have a motorcycle hid kit page but I don't see anything there ?
Probably have to call them and ask .
 
So... Haven't even got my busa yet... waiting to sell my magna.. however.. wanted to know what i need to be able to have HID's and the correct white running lights to make everything super white and clean... it is going to be a white 09' that I will be buying at the end of the month.. thanks in advance...

btw.. i have read everything and it seems like i need h7 and h9 but i know nothing about temperatures nor HID's... is this something i need some education on before ordering or will i end up burning up the inside by just blindly ordering h7 and h9's?
 
Wow, wish I had seen this earlier. That seem slike a great deal, I remember Iceman converting HIDs from a car and it costing us several hundred dollars. Have they discontinued the motorcycle kits?? All I see are kits that have two of the same bulb
 
That is strange? From my phone I can't find them either ?
They still have a motorcycle hid kit page but I don't see anything there ?
Probably have to call them and ask .


I called them this morning and tried getting to the sales department but all I got was voicemail. I left a message asking if they discontinued the lights but I haven't heard anything back yet. I will post here if I hear anything.

btw.. i have read everything and it seems like i need h7 and h9 but i know nothing about temperatures nor HID's... is this something i need some education on before ordering or will i end up burning up the inside by just blindly ordering h7 and h9's?

The different temperatures result in different colors. Here is a temp vs. color chart.

colorchartmotorcycle.jpg
 
Just installed my kit, which is almost identical to Blanca's. BUT mine did not have a factory plug on the highbeam, just the spades. I have not had the bike out, but just the low beam HID made the stock highbeam look yellow. I was going to forgo the running light LEDs, but they look orange/yellow now!

I cannot wait to ride this thing at night. The stock lights sucked big-time compared to this!
 
I can't wait to get my Busa... I have been reading and looking and looking... this wait is killing me! I have learned so much and not even bought mine yet... I wish this guy would hurry up and buy my bike this Monday coming up!

My first mod will definitely be the HIDs... Thanks again for all the info guys
 
I found this on the Blackbird site. Looks like it might be a workable solution for the Busa too:

Okay folks, for those of you who, like me, don't want the HID ballast cycling twice while starting up, but can't find a Euro-spec thottle-side set of bar switches that can be bought for less than the price of your left testicle, I have a solution. I just finished doing this on my bird and it works perfectly!

*Warning* This involves cutting and soldering to your wiring harness and is not for the inept or faint at heart. Jean-Claude, this means you. I am unable to upload pics at the moment, so I will have to try to do this without visual aids.

Alright, the list of materials for this mod is pretty short. All this really takes is a few feet of 18ga wire, some male and female spade connectors, heat shrink tubing, and a 5-pin relay. This is simply a relay that will have a "normally closed" pin (usually marked 87a or 87q) as well as the usual "normally open" pin (marked 87). I won't teach anyone to solder as Smurf has already done a marvelous job of that in his Acumen DV8 install thread.

Okay, here it is. Install your bulb and mount your ballast if you haven't already done so. I found that mine quite nicely tucked in behind the instrument panel and a couple of tie straps hold it there perfectly. My kit included a totally useless rubber grommet (which the instructions referred to as "rubber gourmet" in an obvious reference to JClaude's cooking) which did nothing except make the wires difficult to manage so I removed it.

Now you will need use your handy dandy Haynes manual to identify two wires in the harness that supplies the instrument cluster. One is the oil pressure switch wire, and the other is the positive feed to the oil pressure warning lamp. These are going to trigger the relay coil. You need to splice into each of these with a length of the 18 gauge wire, decide where to mount the relay (somewhere that the original headlamp wiring will reach as you will need these to feed the ballast via the relay). Solder a female spade connector to each of these and attatch them to the coil terminals of the relay (pins 85 and 86). This will "open" the switch in the relay when the key is turned on and the oil pressure lamp is lit.

I found it easier to remove the spade connectors from the OEM headlamp plug. This can be accomplished by using a small pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the barb in the side of the connector. The black wire from the ballast can then plug into the connector on the green wire from the headlamp plug. The other wire from the headlamp plug should go to pin 30 on the relay. Ths leaves the red wire from the ballast. You will need to remove the male connector it came with and solder on a female connector. This goes to pin 87a (or 87q), not pin 87.

The HID will not be energized until the engine is running and the oil pressure warning lamp has extinguished.
 
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