*HELP* List all Available clutch cable conversion mods

[Jdiddy313]

UPDATE

Okay so I talked to Richard at RCC Turbo, he says that the clutch lever is going to have interference on the stock handle bars. I am going to have to grind something down in order for the fitment to be correct or I'm going to have interference.

This is because the kit is normally on race bikes that use a different setup.

Do anyone have any idea what adjustments I'm going to have to make in order to make the clutch lever fit?

 

[sixpack577]

UPDATE

Okay so I talked to Richard at RCC Turbo, he says that the clutch lever is going to have interference on the stock handle bars. I am going to have to grind something down in order for the fitment to be correct or I'm going to have interference.

This is because the kit is normally on race bikes that use a different setup.

Do anyone have any idea what adjustments I'm going to have to make in order to make the clutch lever fit?

It will be where the pin that comes out of the mc goes into the lever itself.
The opening in the lever is the wrong diameter and/or depth.
If the lever is adjustable, you may need to grind some off of the adjustment wheel itself(the part the pin contacts, not the exterior adjuster you move or turn).
I have seen it and fixed it before.

 

[Jdiddy313]

It will be where the pin that comes out of the mc goes into the lever itself.
The opening in the lever is the wrong diameter and/or depth.
If the lever is adjustable, you may need to grind some off of the adjustment wheel itself(the part the pin contacts, not the exterior adjuster you move or turn).
I have seen it and fixed it before.

I wish I had a picture showing what needs to be done. Before I pull the trigger on these parts I want to make sure I can do it. Is this process difficult to do?

 

[sixpack577]

I wish I had a picture showing what needs to be done. Before I pull the trigger on these parts I want to make sure I can do it. Is this process difficult to do?

No, it's not difficult.
A small file, or a dremel works well.
Just go slow and remove a very small amount of material, test it, and repeat until the lever has full travel(completely engaging/disengaging the clutch/mc).

 

[Jdiddy313]

No, it's not difficult.
A small file, or a dremel works well.
Just go slow and remove a very small amount of material, test it, and repeat until the lever has full travel(completely engaging/disengaging the clutch/mc).

Thanks I'll update after parts come in and labor is done!

 

[Mr Brown]

No, it's not difficult.
A small file, or a dremel works well.
Just go slow and remove a very small amount of material, test it, and repeat until the lever has full travel(completely engaging/disengaging the clutch/mc).

This is the key! Remember it's much more difficult to add material back on if you take too much off.......
Small amounts and test.

 

[Jdiddy313]

This is the key! Remember it's much more difficult to add material back on if you take too much off.......
Small amounts and test.

Copy that!

 

[Jeremy Godo]

So if i do this It could help
Me at the race track...
Plus i drop weight

 

[sixpack577]

So if i do this It could help
Me at the race track...
Plus i drop weight

I'm no drag racer, but I would think your money would be better spent on an air shifter. And that weight loss would be minimal and not noticeable.

 

[Mr Brown]

So if i do this It could help
Me at the race track...
Plus i drop weight

If you do what?

 

[Jeremy Godo]

If you do what?

Changs to a cable clutch instead of fluid.

 

[Mr Brown]

That is certainly up for debate, BUT (very big, Sir Mixalot size but) there are many factors at play in the decision, what are your goals, do you race in a class, if so what do they allow, is it a street bike, if so how much street riding does it see, what's your budget, how much power are you making, what is our chassis setup, where on the track are you looking to improve your times, etc. It's not as simple as switch to a cable clutch and it will help.

 

[Jdiddy313]

UPDATE!

THE GOOD: The parts came TODAY from RCC TURBO, I immediately switched out my hydraulic clutch lever system for the cable clutch lever system!

I made a couple of adjustments to the pushrod actuator, for feel. I put her on motorcycle stands, I let her run for about 40 mins. (Same thing I would do on the hydraulic lever system)

I performed the same test that I would have on the hydraulic lever system (Lever pulls and gear changes) and NO SLIPS!

Clutch is currently engaging and disengaging with NO ISSUES OR SLIPPING

I even took her for a ride before work. NOT ONE SLIP!!

THE BAD: The only problem I am currently having is the clutch lever is sitting too high, because I need to grind down some of the metal from The Handlebar holder for a better fitment angle. (Easy fix from the look of it)

Now I need to find an aftermarket handlebar holder (for looks and hopefully fitment angle without having to grind it down) and cable clutch lever!

FYI: For anyone thinking about switching to a cable lever system; the cable system is no harder to pull than the hydraulic lever system. If it is harder, it's very minimal!
But please keep in mind that I have STOCK clutch springs!
HEAVY DUTY CLUTCH SPRINGS WILL CAUSE FOR A HEAVIER PULL!

My bike is NOT a track bike nor a 1\4 mile track sprinter.
I ONLY performed this switch As a result of having issues with my hydraulic lever system (that seemed to be unfixable).

I want to give credit to everyone for their input and help!

This was a frustrating Journey for me and I really appreciate the help!

 

[Mr Brown]

I'm glad you got a good result, thanks for letting us know.
Enjoy the ride!

 

[mabupa]

UPDATE!

THE GOOD: The parts came TODAY from RCC TURBO, I immediately switched out my hydraulic clutch lever system for the cable clutch lever system!

I made a couple of adjustments to the pushrod actuator, for feel. I put her on motorcycle stands, I let her run for about 40 mins. (Same thing I would do on the hydraulic lever system)

I performed the same test that I would have on the hydraulic lever system (Lever pulls and gear changes) and NO SLIPS!

Clutch is currently engaging and disengaging with NO ISSUES OR SLIPPING

I even took her for a ride before work. NOT ONE SLIP!!

THE BAD: The only problem I am currently having is the clutch lever is sitting too high, because I need to grind down some of the metal from The Handlebar holder for a better fitment angle. (Easy fix from the look of it)

Now I need to find an aftermarket handlebar holder (for looks and hopefully fitment angle without having to grind it down) and cable clutch lever!

FYI: For anyone thinking about switching to a cable lever system; the cable system is no harder to pull than the hydraulic lever system. If it is harder, it's very minimal!
But please keep in mind that I have STOCK clutch springs!
HEAVY DUTY CLUTCH SPRINGS WILL CAUSE FOR A HEAVIER PULL!

My bike is NOT a track bike nor a 1\4 mile track sprinter.
I ONLY performed this switch As a result of having issues with my hydraulic lever system (that seemed to be unfixable).

I want to give credit to everyone for their input and help!

This was a frustrating Journey for me and I really appreciate the help!

That’s great that you found a fix to your problem, but curiosity is going to kill me now thinking about which part of your hydraulic system exactly was at fault.

 

[sixpack577]

That’s great that you found a fix to your problem, but curiosity is going to kill me now thinking about which part of your hydraulic system exactly was at fault.

It really seemed to be poor lever fit in the mc