Help!

Doesn't the ECU (ECM) power the relay which then powers the pump?
It should shut down the relay after 3 seconds,.. not?
Might be a bad relay, I agree.
 
mike1180 your right the ECU provides the ground which powers the relay. ECU internal timer cycles after 3 seconds. I jumped a ground to ECU terminal on fuel pump relay and turned igniton switch on. The pump ran constantly which tells me ECU is not providing a ground or activating 3 second timer. ECU is trash. I have one on the way, looks like the one I bought was a very unstable unit, probably why I got it cheap. Live and learn you get what you pay for.
 
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Ok, just a thought here, I was going to bypasss my keyswitch and just hardwire it up to a hidden switch, after doing some research I read somewhere (I can't remember where) that there is a resistor in the ignition part of the keyswitch and if you wire it diretcly you will fry the ECU. I don't know how true that is, but it was enough for me not to hard wire it to a switch and just left the ignition swith intact. For some reason 100 ohms is coming to mind.

Anyone else hear of this?

I guess I could go ohm out the spare switch in the box when I get back in town, which will not be until Sunday night.

Regardless, keep us posted on what you find...


PS - post some pictures....
 
Wow Mike, those are some colorful diagrams... share the wealth...
all i got is black and white PDF stuff...

They are in the back of the HAYNES manual.
They are great, and better to follow.
I will scan them for all the years (goes to 04) and put them in the Maint DIY Thread, later tonight.
 
Get back to wiring in this switch guys, I found a forum on a gixxer site that talks about a 100 ohm resistor in line with ECU lead wire from ignition switch. Anybody got some feedback on that.
 
I don’t see that resistor in the wiring diagram, but it just shows the ignition switch as 1 module, and it may be built in.
Wouldn’t surprise me.
Silly question: Did the bike ever run for sure way you got it?
If it did then you shouldn’t have to add new things to the mix, (like that resistor) but just find the piece that is not functioning, or the wiring that is off/broken.
If you are not sure if it ever did (hear it yourself) then that may be a problem.
Electrical problems can be a bear at times, when you know that it once worked, but if that is not known, then it can be like shooting in the dark.
If it hasn’t ever worked the way it is now, then I might suggest that you buy and ignition switch from ebay and put it all back to stock, get it running, and start from there with the removal of stuff, one thing at a time and try to run it at each change.
 
Ok update: Bike did run before modification to ignition. I know just put it back stock right. well Im not one to give up on a problem I fix them, with whatever it takes(wiring in a 100 ohm resistor to bypass antithft, whatever.) Here is the deal as soon as you power up bike it goes to FI mode(mssg and lite). I have battery voltage at ECU via O/WHT wire. Thats spec. Kill switch off CHEC mssg on. Correct operation. Clutch disengaged(pulled in)starter will spin motor(correct operation). Fuel pump relay has battery voltage at RD/BLU wire and at O/WHT wire this is correct. I have no signal from ECU too fuel pump relay to cycle fuel pump. ECU bad? I dont think so I have 3 ECU's all give the same symptoms. I have been very careful not to burn up ECU's by using voltmeter and power probe where I could. At ignition harness I have 1 RD wire main battery feed, ONG-wire which is main igntion feed, BRN wire and GRY wire are lighting circuits(not really needed, drag-bike), ONG/YLLW wire which is a ECU wire. this wire will show voltage (10.5 volts) when main ignition feed is powered.???I have read from other forums that this wire is the one you need a resistor on for anti theft. ( I tried that, no change in symptom.) last wire is BLK/WHT its ground and thats where its hooked. The one thing I have found is that the side stand relay diode failed voltage test??? and voltage going too switch is .800 of a volt. side stand down and Clymer manual gives 1.4-1.5 as spec. What I dont know is this enough to be creating all this havoc. Feed back is always appreciated and discussions build a wealth of knowledge Thanks Ron
 
OK, I've read all of this; Ron, do you have a Muzzy Air Shifter on the bike? If so, the Digi-Kill may have gone bad. Just trying to think outside of the Box. Also have you tryed to tie into the Dealer mode dianostic plug under the hump (left side) to narrow down the Fi code? Not trying to be stupid here, just coming at it from a different direction.
 
OK, I've read all of this; Ron, do you have a Muzzy Air Shifter on the bike? If so, the Digi-Kill may have gone bad. Just trying to think outside of the Box. Also have you tryed to tie into the Dealer mode dianostic plug under the hump (left side) to narrow down the Fi code? Not trying to be stupid here, just coming at it from a different direction.

yeah he got the ??? from me when I read he modded his ignition


put it back to stock and ensure the relay is good...then move forward with your mods.
 
IMO:

Sounds like the ECU's are all fine.
If it ran before it is not the 100 ohm resistor, or anything else new needed to be added.
Something that is already there is disconnected, poorly connected, corroded, broken or intermittently bad.
From what you said, I am guessing that something is supposed to give the ECU a signal to power on and off that fuel pump relay and it is not.
It may not be getting the signal from whatever to allow it to perform that function.
Somewhere in the feeds to the ECU, there must be something that allows it to do it's switching job. I have no idea what that would be. This type of analysis is getting very detailed, into the inner workings of the ECU. (lead by lead specific)

I myself would not consider putting it back to stock as "giving up" on the problem.
You have already spent whatever you did on 2 extra ECU's and whatever else you have tried.
It is a legitimate troubleshooting technique to get it working as stock, and then start the mods 1 at a time to see which one is causing your problem.
I hate to give up too, but my first concern when something is not working, is to get the fastest and best fix so I can start riding. ASAP.

May be someone else knows more about the inner workings of the ECU and will chime in.
 
not worried about troubleshooting the ecu...its all the mods and how they are installed...troubleshooting a corroded wire, loose ground, something not hooked up right via text is near impossible.
 
not worried about troubleshooting the ecu...its all the mods and how they are installed...troubleshooting a corroded wire, loose ground, something not hooked up right via text is near impossible.

I agree.
Once he gets the ECU lead powering the fuel relay properly, he may have other problems that then come to light.
 
I might have a bad MPS autoshift box, I did wire one in before all the ignition mod. Although I did consider it in my diagnostic and thought I eliminated it. Ill take you alls advise and back track the mods. ( auto shift box, air shft valve.)Ill start from scratch, I was just being lazy after soldering all the connections , you just hate to have to do it again. The autoshift box should be lifetime warranty from MPS if its bad right? I still have a haze about the 100 ohm resistor needed at ignition switch. The ECU is fed 12.0 volts(battery voltage from main igntion feed ONG/WHT wire.) and the ECU lead at the ignition RD\Yllw shows 10.5 volts after powering up main ignition feed. So frying the ECU dosnt seem likely. If I have 3 good ECU's then woohoo! cant I send them out for this reflash going around I can only use one at a time, might be able to help somebody else out.
 
OK auto shift box taken out of loop and still same symptom. My only likely problem part I see is the side stand relay. If spec. is 1.4-1.5 volts stand down and I have only .800 of volt. Seems to me if the if The ECU parameter is not being met by the side stand then we wont have fuel pump cycle for start up. Does this logic jive with yall' (remember I say yall because Iam originally from Texas.) I only have .800 of a volt coming from relay to side stand switch. I have continuity at switch with stand up and none stand down. So switch is good. Relay diode passes one voltage test out of two, If im doing the test right. Can any one clue me in to getting into dealer mode to pull codes(Ihave shorted DLC's pre obdII in cars to pull codes . Can I do this on the scoot, and can you give me a quick pin out for dummies).
 
Don't be in any haze about the 100 ohm resistor.
If it ran before without it, then it is not needed right?
Can you bypass the side stand switch ( touch the wires together so it looks like it is up? )
That will prove if the switch is bad.
 
Ok guys its over! Bike is running, no key switch just a race toggle. What a bear. I learned alot doing this simple Mod. and appreciate everyones input. final synopsis is as follows. Ghetto dealer mode got me the code that was hanging me up. C42 Ignition signal. Continutity checked good, all wires leading from igntion to ECM. You do need a resistor inline with ECM signal wire. If you need more details blog your request or E-mail me at ronhightracing @q.com. I also do now have an extra ECM Iam looking to get reflashed.If you have that info. tell me about it. otherwise Ill search it here on another thread. Thanks again for your input. That always helps the mind look at other areas of interest that I may have overlooked.:beerchug:
 
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