Horrible brakes....options?

ajblbv

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Okay guys, so this summer did steel braided lines front and back and new pads. Going onto rotors that are 10 years old and seem warped. Obviously bled when the new lines were put on...but now the front is spongy, can completely pull it in practically. So here I am gathering parts for winter projects, and I would like input on what you do. I do like to ride a lot, and this summer getting used to the Busa I used the brakes more than engine braking which I slowly was getting away from in fall. I do not push the bike to any extremes, but want to be safe.

So I was looking at new rotors, calipers, and obviously pads. I know there are aftermarket rotors and calipers, and while pricey many love them. I also know there are rebuild kits.

I would like to be able to do long trips without worrying about this stuff, so while cost is an issue I want to look at all my options.

I have been swimming through all the threads on this stuff, seems like people like Galfer wave, but couldn't find a ton of concrete feedback on different calipers.

All input is welcome, if I missed anything ask questions...
 
spongy is not a result of warped rotors....spongy comes from air in the lines or possibly old fluid. this should clear up with new fluid and a proper bleed.

most time you can see a warped rotor, or hear it drag when you spin the wheel

OEM parts are good, and with the new brake lines should provide more than enough braking for you.
 
Really, I've never had any trouble with OEM brakes on any of my Street Bikes. I guess, that's why I keep them. Track bike, NO, but my Street Bikes, YES :thumbsup:
 
spongy is not a result of warped rotors....spongy comes from air in the lines or possibly old fluid. this should clear up with new fluid and a proper bleed.

most time you can see a warped rotor, or hear it drag when you spin the wheel

OEM parts are good, and with the new brake lines should provide more than enough braking for you.

I agree, I have stock rotors with EBC HH pads and steel lines, you better not grab a handful or she will stop on a dime. Check your lines for air.
 
No problems with stockers, probably go with Galfer HH pads when it's time to replace them.
 
Then I'll go with the assumption I didn't bleed them properly and start there. Thanks guys.
 
Here is a video that I stole from Pashnit on how to bleed brakes. :beerchug:


If you decide to go new you should look into replacing your master with a radial style from Brembo or another top manufacture.
 
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If you accidentally got air into the calipers, it's hard to get rid of it. Also, generally it's a good idea to get a Mighty Vac or something similar to do the job.

Here is a trick which will help you. Take the break fluid out of the reservoir so it's almost empty. Take a plastic syringe (like the one to inject ink in printer cartridges, or something similar), open the bleed screw, fill the syringe with the break fluid, connect to the bleed screw via a tube, and inject into the system until the reservoir gets full. Take away from reservoir until it's almost empty again, and repeat the injection. While you do that, it's important to fill the connecting tube full of fluid so you don't get air in the system.

In short, you are injecting the fluid from the bottom and all the air goes up. You are pretty much done. Give it a try. If you feel you still got a bit of air, then continue with normal bleeding procedure using mighty vac instructions.
 
I have the same problem with mine feeling spongy after I change the fluid or add new brakes. The trick I found out which it may be right it may not be but I know it works, I stop on a dime with stock lines, stock rotors and EBC brakes. After I bleed the lines and know there is no air in them to get rid of the spongy feel I have to pump the crap out of the brake lever for about 5 mins and the feel comes back. I have the same issue with the clutch but it is solved the same way for me. Also, something else you may want to check, My clutch stopped grabbing and I thought my clutch was going out after looking into it my bleeder valve was letting air back in the line took it out and it was corroded and not getting a good seal. Just my 2 cents
 
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