How much metal is too much in the oil pan?

Berlin Germany, can't find 1303 thread lock, would you use red or blue thread lock. Also would you apply thread lock to the clutch spring bolt as well as the clutch spring support bolt ,as it only says apply it to clutch support bolt and tighten to 23nm,

hi man :)

- the "1303" is a suzuki internal number - if you ask for this in the suzuki dealer shop you should get it there

- as a "glue" for the studs (only) i use a thread locker what can withstand more than 150 °C / 300 °F because the oil can! achieve this temp. , even if only as an absolute top value
and the higher the max temp is declared the better (stronger) the locker is.
what color it has i don´t remember at the moment and the "color" never matters - only it's temperature withstandings.

- watch the drawing in the bulletin (and the same drawing in the manual) and apply a thread locker ONLY to the clutch spring stud plus its 23 Nm (up to 25) - the little srew (clutch spring bolt) is set in "dry" and get only his 10 (up to 11) Nm and NO "locker" at all.

- the suzuki manual - if not available yet , get it a.s.a.p. ! ;)
 
hi man :)

- the "1303" is a suzuki internal number - if you ask for this in the suzuki dealer shop you should get it there

- as a "glue" for the studs (only) i use a thread locker what can withstand more than 150 °C / 300 °F because the oil can! achieve this temp. , even if only as an absolute top value
and the higher the max temp is declared the better (stronger) the locker is.
what color it has i don´t remember at the moment and the "color" never matters - only it's temperature withstandings.

- watch the drawing in the bulletin (and the same drawing in the manual) and apply a thread locker ONLY to the clutch spring stud plus its 23 Nm (up to 25) - the little srew (clutch spring bolt) is set in "dry" and get only his 10 (up to 11) Nm and NO "locker" at all.

- the suzuki manual - if not available yet , get it a.s.a.p. ! ;)
Thanks for advice , this will be my job for the weekend
 
So then this is a manufacture mistake? Loose bolt from the factory caused this?

jep u nearly got it.
they didn´t put thread locker to the stud´s outer thread !
the simple, the spring holding, m6x20 screw never was the problem. 10-12 Nm on it and all -ever - is / was ok.
the fu c k ing stud(s) "come" and, logicaly, together with them the associated little m6 screw(s)

and as far i know
the same mistake at the studs happened even at the last hayabusas
here in germany at the 2014s definitley (i did the control myself) and if i feel right even till 2016 (here)
and i guess it the same shi7 happened at the 17,18, 19 and 20s
so go and control.
the best 90 minutes you ever could invest in your busa.
 
Last edited:
I get to wonder how many little shards of metal are floating around in that engine just waiting to block an oil line or jam a gear...

It it were me, that engine would be torn down and cleaned out completely. These are high performance engines with close tolerances.
 
I get to wonder how many little shards of metal are floating around in that engine just waiting to block an oil line or jam a gear...
yepp bee
the trans starts working as a mill if only one tooth e.g. is broken and get between the other gear wheels
and the result will be sand like metal scrap.

(...) If it were me, that engine would be torn down and cleaned out completely. These are high performance engines with close tolerances.
m.o.l. my words ;) :thumbsup:
 
That's a shame....I'm on the border-line of that as well....arthritis in my hands is a big limiting factor with me

Even though the Busa isn’t a GP bike it still has a lean forward riding position. Way better than other superbikes I’ve sat on but still forward. My right hand is affected more than my left and I think the helibars I added some time back actually aggravate the issue. The upright, cowboy, or ‘standard’ rising position is a lot more hand and wrist friendly. It may be just be the solution for problem hands that can keep someone riding.

At speed the position on the Busa doesn’t phase me much at all, only in the up and down mountain twisties that are slower. That’s where my standard position Kaw comes in handy. There is little to no fatigue to my hands or wrists even after a couple hundred miles. Steering is light and I’m just sitting on/in the bike versus leaning forward. Twisties are fun too with the wider handlebars. After selling my last CBX I really missed the upright riding position....not that I’d sell the Busa. Thankfully I’m able to have both and tomorrow is the Kaw’s turn weather permitting. :D

Ha! WTH does this have to do with metal in the oil pan? :laugh:
 
Even though the Busa isn’t a GP bike it still has a lean forward riding position. Way better than other superbikes I’ve sat on but still forward. My right hand is affected more than my left and I think the helibars I added some time back actually aggravate the issue. The upright, cowboy, or ‘standard’ rising position is a lot more hand and wrist friendly. It may be just be the solution for problem hands that can keep someone riding.

At speed the position on the Busa doesn’t phase me much at all, only in the up and down mountain twisties that are slower. That’s where my standard position Kaw comes in handy. There is little to no fatigue to my hands or wrists even after a couple hundred miles. Steering is light and I’m just sitting on/in the bike versus leaning forward. Twisties are fun too with the wider handlebars. After selling my last CBX I really missed the upright riding position....not that I’d sell the Busa. Thankfully I’m able to have both and tomorrow is the Kaw’s turn weather permitting. :D

Ha! WTH does this have to do with metal in the oil pan? :laugh:
Hi. Come on. I have been stabbed in my right hand shot in the back broken my left wrist 2 times right one too 8 ribs arms legs crushed left ankle total 33 bones. Had a wizz wheel break split my left thumb to the bone. I still ride all the time.
 
Hi. Come on. I have been stabbed in my right hand shot in the back broken my left wrist 2 times right one too 8 ribs arms legs crushed left ankle total 33 bones. Had a wizz wheel break split my left thumb to the bone. I still ride all the time.
I'm NEVER going to the pub for a game of darts with you .. What's your nickname .... Lucky ? :cool:
 
That's a shame....I'm on the border-line of that as well....arthritis in my hands is a big limiting factor with me

bee?

even without any health problems with the wrists
this
Stand_2010-11-07_3.jpg

is THE! solution to get rid of any pain in any wrists
(and @GMbusa - that way even with a little oversized belly / with arms that got too short over the years- grin)

and for arthritis sufferers, I also recommend this solution - additionally to the pic above - so to say
Kupplung_2.jpg


PLUS

Bremse_2.jpg


and my "how to install" without any cuttings at the screen is available here
 
Last edited:
bee?

even without any health problems with the wrists
this
View attachment 1631395
is THE! solution to get rid of any pain in any wrists
(and @GMbusa - that way even with a little oversized belly / with arms that got too short over the years- grin)

and for arthritis sufferers, I also recommend this solution - additionally to the pic above - so to say
View attachment 1631396

PLUS

View attachment 1631397

and my "how to install" without any cuttings at the screen is available here
I've got adjustable levers, it's not the levers which cause the pain. I've got Heli-bars and a heel rest for the throttle to rest my grip but even with these changes, I am still limited.

I am thinking of going with those types of bars but its more my grip that causes pain, not the position...

It's to the point that I have to limit my activities, during riding season, I have to plan my rides, if I am to ride that day, I do less activities like raking, shoveling, etc.

My wife is busting my chops to get on some sort of medication to help but in all honesty, I hate medications and avoid them when I can. So far it is manageable, if it gets so it's not, I either get rid of the bike or maybe go on medication.
 
Back
Top