How much metal is too much in the oil pan?

@Bumblebee

athritis is a quite damn bullshitty thing
whatfor nobody would be envied, i guess.

so why i pointed so strong to the radials is the fact that the necessary needed power drops quite a lot / clearly noticeable smaller (at brake AND clutch) and by that the pain might get smaller.

best wishes :)
Got them already mein freunde, Brembo MC and calipers with Gaffer brake lines, EBC rotors and HH splintered pads, the old girl will stop like nobody's business...
 
but did u already move to the wide bar, what we here call a "superbike bar" (eventualy in addition combined with the 1" back and up lifters) like i recommended ?

not yet?

i promise you - if you´d done you never more want some other !
 
but did u already move to the wide bar, what we here call a "superbike bar" (eventualy in addition combined with the 1" back and up lifters) like i recommended ?

not yet?

i promise you - if you´d done you never more want some other !
Not yet, not sure if I will bother as I like the seating position as it is right now....I might go that route though.

I digress as we are way off the subject of the metal in the engine thread...
 
Good luck with that motor, you are gonna need it!
Slapping it back together (without stripping, cleaning, and checking bearings and oil pump etc) and hoping for the best is a lottery, and I really think the odds are stacked against you . . .
but hey, you never know, let us know how it goes.
You win

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You will also win from being fastidious!
How far do I need to go through into the bottom end?

Also, Manual shows a whole lot of parts removals before splitting the cases. As it sits right now in that picture… what comes before crankcase bolts and separating?
 
How far do I need to go through into the bottom end?

Also, Manual shows a whole lot of parts removals before splitting the cases. As it sits right now in that picture… what comes before crankcase bolts and separating?
Remove and strip the oil pump and oil pressure relief valve, inspect for ant damage from the metal fragments, and pack with grease to prime it if all is well. Then re-install it.
If it was me, I would split the crankcase halves, clean out all the oilways with white spirit, and blow out with compressed air. Then inspect for damage, removing big end caps and checking condition of plain metal big end bearings etc.
That's me though. . . you may not want to go that far into it, up to you mate.
 
Remove and strip the oil pump and oil pressure relief valve, inspect for ant damage from the metal fragments, and pack with grease to prime it if all is well. Then re-install it.
If it was me, I would split the crankcase halves, clean out all the oilways with white spirit, and blow out with compressed air. Then inspect for damage, removing big end caps and checking condition of plain metal big end bearings etc.
That's me though. . . you may not want to go that far into it, up to you mate.
Pack the oil pressure relief valve with grease?
 
What all has to be removed in order to split the cases? Minimum?

no manual available yet ?

then stop here with all your work and get it first as an absolutely necessary basis for all further work
then read it line by line at the "motor" part and follow those descriptions in the manual.

anything else would be sheer nonsense!

and for tech. questions - the motor itself of gen2 is nearly 99.5% built equal to gen1 - so even you have a gen2 you can use the manual´s part "motor" of the gen1 (and other way around).
the torques for instance, as far as i remember, are the same - but nobody can remember them all while assembling !
so a re-assembly without a manual is, in my opinion, utter madness !

watch the prescribed torques in the manual
and
it is imperative to observe the prescribed tightening sequence of the screws (´n nuts)

but !
the art.-no´s differ sometimes a bit in special parts !!!

so, if youre looking for numbers of spare parts, look at my page at
a. gen1 - microfiches
b. gen2 - microfiches
 
Manual has top end disassembly before bottom. Is that just the order they put them in the book, or is top before bottom a must just to split the cases? Surely not, right?
To split the case you will need to pull the timing chain and camshafts. So align your timing marks and Mark the chain by the cams. Once you have that all done pull the cams and timing chain out then reinstall the cams and valve cover. Then pull the bolts on top of the case by the transmission and flip the motor over and pull the other bolts out and you should be able to split the case.
 
To split the case you will need to pull the timing chain and camshafts. (...)
this u only have to do for pulling the crankshaft

if u only wanna split the case leave that ALL at its place

motor upside down and unscrew all of the lower case-part - not to forgett the one which is covered by the oilpump ! for that the oilpump must put out.
look at the manual and think about .
 
this u only have to do for pulling the crankshaft

if u only wanna split the case leave that ALL at its place

motor upside down and unscrew all of the lower case-part - not to forgett the one which is covered by the oilpump ! for that the oilpump must put out.
look at the manual and think about .
Perfect insight, thank you!

Anything against brake parts cleaner to spray it out??

My compressor committed suicide. It's under warranty, but no telling how long Kobalt will take to repair/replace.
 
You don’t have to pull the oil pump to split the case. I never did. But I woul recommend pulling it and cleaning from what that oil pan looked like
Will do.

Are there any other major issues like the clutch basket bolts that I can nip in the bud while I'm in there?

I ask because that TSB didn't come up in my searches originally only listing 08+ in the "affected models/yrs" Suzuki put on it.
 
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