I experienced the need for Brock mod today.

O

OB_Kirk

Registered
I have been fooling around from time to time with leaving stop lights, trying to become more confident and learn how to launch my Bus. I am nowhere near launching yet, just abrupt stoplight leaves. I left tonight at moderate throttle and moderately aggressive clutch release, and about half way out the clutch just locked up all of the sudden. I now realize what you guys are talking about as far as not being able to conrol the clutch smoothly. The clutch has always felt unpredictable, but I've never had it do something on it's own without my input. I figured that I would just learn to manage it as best as possible until BDE gets some cores in, but now I know that it would not be a good idea to try this at the strip until I do the clutch mod.
 
The stock clutch scared the crap outta me at the strip. If I didn't wheelie, the back tire broke loose. Didn't make for a fun time. The mod made all the difference in the world for launches. I have a spare core that I forgot to send in when I got my clutch mod. If they'll still give me the refund for it, I'll send it on over.
 
KIRK,get the clutch mod only buy brock. IF you are going to run it at the track you will beat the hell out of the clutch hub if you don"t get the MOD. ALSO will like the clutch feel.
 
Man, that felt good!

Seriously now, the stock clutch is indeed a nightmare, but you might try suggestion from 1 of our Nordic friends that doesn't cost any real money first:

Take out the clutch plates pack and soak the whole lot in clean, fresh engine-oil overnight before reassembly. It was found out that these clutches are assembled dry in Hamamatsu and the way oil is supplied lightly from inside the clutch-hub (it does NOT RUN IN OIL) means that they stay close to completely dry (at least mine came out like that when I wanted to install Brock mod).
Our Nordic friend (think it was Nygie) went back complaining about clutch to his dealer couple of times and in the end they took it in for some servicing and ever since he's now completely satisfied with it and finally enjoys normal clutch behaviour and his dealer told him all they did was soak the plates.
Haven't heard from a 2nd person that tried ONLY this however (I did Brock mod AND soak plates in oil) so final verdict still needs a 2nd opinion which you could supply by testing this easier/cheaper option first?
 
Animal, an alternative to taking the plates out is filling the oil to the brim (yes, up to the filler!) with any old cheapo oil and then tie the clutch lever to the bars to seperate the plates.

leave overnight then drain the oil the next day and replenish.

gives the engine a good flush too!

[This message has been edited by DangerMouse (edited 21 June 2000).]
 
TMH, JC, frank, what do y'all think about
a) pull it out and soak it
b) overfill it overnight w/ clutch tied down?
c) none of this is any good?

Kurt
 
How about this: Take your 36" 1/2" impact to 3/8" tranny extension, and put it in the swingarm pivot hole from the right side until it bottoms out as it comes out the left (little) side. Lay the bike over on the 1/2" end of the tranny extension and rubber band the clutch lever. All the oil in the engine will now be on the clutch side of the engine. Just an idea. God bless.
 
JC
I'm with you what the F is the . thing??

I asked about it before but only Falcon Fool replied that he would let on BUT NEVER DID

help me out of my misery!!!!

Also

THis is the first thing I have read on the clutch soaking thing. Might try this....Am getting oil change monday, so might fill up with cheap oil saturday afternoon, and run till monday. What do you all think of this? Currently got Mobil 1 in it, If i use fully synth. cheap stuff should be okay yeah??

Thanks

SS

NumbNuts
 
NN,

Hope this is not your interpretation of DangerMouse's suggestion ... don't run the engine overfilled with oil!!!

Still think that removing clutch cover and taking out clutch-plates-pack to soak the friction material in fresh oil overnight before reassembly is the way to go ... only drawback being that you normally best replace clutch cover gasket of course.

If memory serves me right you don't even have to drain the oil for this as the Busa on sidestand allows clutch cover to be taken off without engine-oil running out, just have it on side-stand quite a while before opening the thing up so as to prevent possible light dripping of oil from some parts if you wanna do it the cleanest way.

And if you wanna do this yourself, better have the shop-manual or pay darn good attention to which parts go where, how and in which sequence!

Hope this helps.
 
Animal
Sorry, I didn't explain clearly

Fill up saturday night with cheap sh1t, drain sunday morn to correct level, and run with cheap sh1t untill monday.

Nuts
 
Phewwww, OK, clear now, give it a try 'cause we need more experience with just getting those plates soaked to see what diff that makes!
 
JohnnyCheese, I think the . is just put there to make the post go back near the top.
I guess they just cant think if anything to say but like the thread and don't want it to die. I hope someone does the over fill thing. It would be cool if a fix was that simple. By the way. Why not just good oil for the over fill and just save the extra you drain out and use later. Also, anyong got an idea about how much extra oil it takes to raise up to the filler????
 
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