Jinkster's "how to synch your busa"
- Thread starter JINKSTER
- Start date
i guess i don't have to mess with it,my bike is a 03. but i noticed when i synced with that nipple blocked i get better readings more stable reading thru all four gauges, but when i put everything back togheter and start the bike, it sounds awfull, like is missing. when i don't block the vtv nipple the readinigs are a little off is harder to get all four aligned but at the end it sound smooth and beautiful.
THANKS mike
Does anyone have a tutorial on how to set your idle screw? Where is it located? What is the idle RPM to idle at? I am new to Hayabusa and do not know my way around. Kudos for this illustration regarding Syncing. Does anybody have an address as to where I could purchase a digital manometer?
Try Motion Pro - Quality Motorcycle Cables, Tools and Controls
Also, what year is your bike? If it's Gen I, the idle screw is under the tank on the throttle side of the bike. Lift the tank and set the rpms at around 1150.
--Wag--
Also, what year is your bike? If it's Gen I, the idle screw is under the tank on the throttle side of the bike. Lift the tank and set the rpms at around 1150.
--Wag--
oskala
Banned
Re: Jinkster's "how to synch your busa"
Thanks for the info Bill. I'll be doing my TB sync. next Spring. And as stated above it's very important to sync your TB's. But I go one step further. I found that on my '08 FJR that the "Throttle Plates" were not synced. So I went ahead and closed all my air bleed screw and then proceeded to sync the throttle plates. I then adjusted the air screw and man did that bike run better.
Anothe option to consider instead of the mercury nanometer is the:
Morgan Carbtune Pro.
The Morgan Carbtune Pro uses calibrated steel rods instead of mercury and works great!
Here's a link to the Morgan Carbtune Pro:
http://www.carbtune.com/
Thanks for the info Bill. I'll be doing my TB sync. next Spring. And as stated above it's very important to sync your TB's. But I go one step further. I found that on my '08 FJR that the "Throttle Plates" were not synced. So I went ahead and closed all my air bleed screw and then proceeded to sync the throttle plates. I then adjusted the air screw and man did that bike run better.
Anothe option to consider instead of the mercury nanometer is the:
Morgan Carbtune Pro.
The Morgan Carbtune Pro uses calibrated steel rods instead of mercury and works great!
Here's a link to the Morgan Carbtune Pro:
http://www.carbtune.com/
oskala
Banned
Re: Jinkster's "how to synch your busa"
The Factory does the best job they can but as with any mass produced vehicle the factory can't spend to much time syncing TB's. So any new bike will have a little bit of difference in the TB's sync..
The Factory does the best job they can but as with any mass produced vehicle the factory can't spend to much time syncing TB's. So any new bike will have a little bit of difference in the TB's sync..
oskala
Banned
Here's a link to a Rider Magazine evaluation of the Morgan CarbTune Pro:
Carbtune Pro
In the article they said it worked "Flawlessly". And even with Morgan being in Belfast, Northern Ireland it only took a week for my CarbTune Pro to arrive. One note about ordering from Morgan. They don't ship to PO Boxes. Luckily for me my postal worked snagged mine before it was sent back and delivered it to my house.
And finally I checked the sync. of my Morgan CarbTune before I used it by hooking up all 4 columns one at a time to the #4 cyl.. The CarbTune sync. was dead on!
Carbtune Pro
In the article they said it worked "Flawlessly". And even with Morgan being in Belfast, Northern Ireland it only took a week for my CarbTune Pro to arrive. One note about ordering from Morgan. They don't ship to PO Boxes. Luckily for me my postal worked snagged mine before it was sent back and delivered it to my house.
And finally I checked the sync. of my Morgan CarbTune before I used it by hooking up all 4 columns one at a time to the #4 cyl.. The CarbTune sync. was dead on!
Re: Jinkster's "how to synch your busa"
Used to do this on the old carbureted bikes, never thought about it on FI. I would assume though not all, if any factory FI bikes are in perfect sync. Were any of the throttle bodys dramatically different from another?
Again assuming, that there wasn't dramatic difference, was there a noticeable difference in idle quality or throttle response? Thanks, cool post.
Synching the Throttle Bodies is an important aspect of thorough tuning and maintainance and plays a large role in how well your engine performs with respect to increased power, snappier throttle response and greatly reduced engine vibrations...also....once properly synched?...your bike will exhibit easier, more consistant start-ups with a steadier and more rythmic idle quality.
L8R, Bill.
Used to do this on the old carbureted bikes, never thought about it on FI. I would assume though not all, if any factory FI bikes are in perfect sync. Were any of the throttle bodys dramatically different from another?
Again assuming, that there wasn't dramatic difference, was there a noticeable difference in idle quality or throttle response? Thanks, cool post.
Rick Ekstrom
Registered
Re: Jinkster's "how to synch your busa"
Bill, where abouts do you live, Im in southbend and was wondering how close you are to me?
Bill, where abouts do you live, Im in southbend and was wondering how close you are to me?
IG.
Registered
Re: Jinkster's "how to synch your busa"
I just did the sync. Thanks very much to Jinkster for the write-up and nice pictures which are so much clearer than shown in the manual.
I have some points I wanted to add.
- The IAT sensor needsd to be unplugged, unscrewed from the airbox and re-plugged back when doing the sync. I know the manual says it.
- Like Jinkster pointed out, the hoses wouldn't budge and I couldn't remove them from their nipples on throttle bodies. However, the three T-connectors holding it all together come off really easy. So, I removed all three T-connectors thus leaving the short hoses going to each throttle body open on one end. All you need to connect the hoses from the gauges is to have a male-male coupler. So, for 3 out of 4 TB'S I used such couplers, and for the one of them I used one of T-connectors, and instead of connecting the IAP sensor to another nipple on the 4th throttle body, I simply plugged it into the 3d end of the one T-connector I used.
- without the airbox, the bike sounds like crap, and it's idle needs to be maintained around 3k (either hold the throttle or adjust idle, but don't forget to adjust back when the airbox is back on), otherwise my dial gauges were going crazy (the handle jumps all over the place).
- after doing all that, it's a good idea to check that your TPS adjustment is still good. Mine went off, so I had to adjust this one as well.
I've done this the first time after about 30k miles. TB's were not so badly out of sync. I noticed that #1 had less vacuum than #2 and #3 had less vacuum than #4. To correct that I had to screw in the respective screws which suggests that over time with all the vibration, the adjustment screws unscrew themselves a little bit. What's interesting that I didn't have to adjust the middle screw which controls the balance between #1 & #2 on one side and #3 & #4 on another side.
Rode the bike and I think all in all it was behaving noticeably smoother.
Also, I've had another slight issue unrelated to throttle syncing: when I just try to crack the throttle open from completely closed position, it sort of jumps a bit. I traced it back to a purely mechanical issue - there was some stickiness in the axle on which all butteflies sit. So, I sprayed good old WD-40 where the springs on the axle are and other places around the axle where moving parts rub against non-moving parts. This fixed the problem. Now initial crack of the throttle goes pretty smooth.
I just did the sync. Thanks very much to Jinkster for the write-up and nice pictures which are so much clearer than shown in the manual.
I have some points I wanted to add.
- The IAT sensor needsd to be unplugged, unscrewed from the airbox and re-plugged back when doing the sync. I know the manual says it.
- Like Jinkster pointed out, the hoses wouldn't budge and I couldn't remove them from their nipples on throttle bodies. However, the three T-connectors holding it all together come off really easy. So, I removed all three T-connectors thus leaving the short hoses going to each throttle body open on one end. All you need to connect the hoses from the gauges is to have a male-male coupler. So, for 3 out of 4 TB'S I used such couplers, and for the one of them I used one of T-connectors, and instead of connecting the IAP sensor to another nipple on the 4th throttle body, I simply plugged it into the 3d end of the one T-connector I used.
- without the airbox, the bike sounds like crap, and it's idle needs to be maintained around 3k (either hold the throttle or adjust idle, but don't forget to adjust back when the airbox is back on), otherwise my dial gauges were going crazy (the handle jumps all over the place).
- after doing all that, it's a good idea to check that your TPS adjustment is still good. Mine went off, so I had to adjust this one as well.
I've done this the first time after about 30k miles. TB's were not so badly out of sync. I noticed that #1 had less vacuum than #2 and #3 had less vacuum than #4. To correct that I had to screw in the respective screws which suggests that over time with all the vibration, the adjustment screws unscrew themselves a little bit. What's interesting that I didn't have to adjust the middle screw which controls the balance between #1 & #2 on one side and #3 & #4 on another side.
Rode the bike and I think all in all it was behaving noticeably smoother.
Also, I've had another slight issue unrelated to throttle syncing: when I just try to crack the throttle open from completely closed position, it sort of jumps a bit. I traced it back to a purely mechanical issue - there was some stickiness in the axle on which all butteflies sit. So, I sprayed good old WD-40 where the springs on the axle are and other places around the axle where moving parts rub against non-moving parts. This fixed the problem. Now initial crack of the throttle goes pretty smooth.
FALQN
Registered
Re: Jinkster's "how to synch your busa"
Shaft, don't try and synch without the SDS tool or the ECU Editor harness. You have to turn the electronic idle control off before you synch otherwise you'll throw everything off.
Shaft, don't try and synch without the SDS tool or the ECU Editor harness. You have to turn the electronic idle control off before you synch otherwise you'll throw everything off.
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